V2.0, play it again Jim. Little bit louder this time!

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With your CNC you should be able to do all kinds of cool engraving and cut designs.

A nice deer and forest engraving going up each beam of the X would almost give it a totem pole vibe..
 
How do you think it would draft with 4 inch pipe?

Do you think that could help with the smoke filling your room issue?

Or would it just waste more heat up the pipe.

Also did you add any baffles in your X to help with heat transfer?

Might help with the more air in less heat out issue.
 
Baffles = crap to clog up. If it doesn't exchange enough heat, we'll slow down how fast it can exit the stove. Again, this is experimental. Very. Experimental. Right now with V1.0, it's working with some issues. I'm hoping that the smoke issue is just a matter of how I fed the stupid thing. Having the 90 (2ea 45's) to get it out the wall doesn't help with flow...then another 90 headed up the stack. It had less smoke issues when it was running straight pipe. I think the 4" (or bigger) might solve that...Keeping the heat in the thing may need to be a heat exchanger or ???? Hell, I'm learning this whole thing as it hits me in the face. I HAVE learned that you don't grab freshly welded seams....so I am trainable ;-)

Several things that have assisted so far....Fluke IR camera and a logging pyrometer have been priceless in finding out what happens, where it happens. First iteration of the burn chamber would only heat up one side of the tube. Left side stayed cold, right side would boil lead. Change to the primary and both sides now burn nearly (10F) the same temp. (difference is probably an air leak around the door)

V2.0 is ready to start doing machining to the bottom pieces. Need to cut out the exhaust, feed and ash holes. The plasma works, but the mill works the best for these, as I like a nice clean cut. We'll do some thinking about the new feed system because before I cut everything into the burn chamber, I need to figure out how I'm going to feed it. I can cut out everything but the feed...which I'll start tomorrow night.

3-6" predicted tonight, but I still gotta get to work. Something has to pay for all this fun!
 
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Yeah your 90s and 45s are causing your over all length to be more than the 15 for standard 3" vent.

You will need 4 inch in there somewhere.
 
Yeah your 90s and 45s are causing your over all length to be more than the 15 for standard 3" vent.

You will need 4 inch in there somewhere.
Yup, 4" is the next step.
From the top of the stove, it's 18" of straight to include the baraometric, a 45, 12" of straight, another 45, 36" through the wall to the "T", then 13' straight up to the cap.
Everything needs to be moved up to the next size, or bigger. I don't think V2.0 will be installed this heating season, but it will (or the next version) be installed for next. I'll save up for insulated over the summer, and just use thinwall for testing. Figuring out what size I need before I buy it.
When it starts a draft, it really pulls a draft...but when it sucks is really sucks. :) Upsize the pipes for the next one.
 
tjn

Not much.

No sub stuff.

Carried a Journeyman's ticket in Welding, machinist, fabrication.

Used to fill in over in the hydraulics shop and worked in the electrical shop too (Large manuf co that built forest products machinery)

Quit that in 1990 and bought a dump truck, went to work as a contract hauler.
Ended up owning an 8 axle transfer dump.

Stacked up near 2 million miles over 22 years at it.

Owned a gun shop from 2002 - 2013

Retired :)
 
With your CNC you should be able to do all kinds of cool engraving and cut designs.

A nice deer and forest engraving going up each beam of the X would almost give it a totem pole vibe..
Oh, that's in the works...but with the plasma. Seriously thinking about setting up a 3'x5' table for it.
Soon as I sell the bike.
 
WOOHOO!!! Got the burn section drawn up tonight. Without cutting the top to fit what I wanted on the bottom, (since I made it a bit bigger), I redesigned the bottom a little bit. Not sure how it'll flow, or even if it'll work, but it's on paper. I'll start milling out the holes this weekend after the guns are engraved. Might as well get some programming done while I'm at it...will keep me from having to stand over the mill while it's cutting.

Yeah...who am I kidding. I turn that thing on, I watch it through the full cycle regardless if I can walk away or not. Going on 2yrs now....and I'm still excited to have a CNC in the shop.

Hope to get something up and welded by Sunday night.

(not to scale, objects in mirror, your mileage may vary, for an election lasting more than 48hrs....)
 
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So what are the changes you have made from V1 and why?
Starting out with enough steel to make it correct, instead of 'I only have 12', what can I make with it' I did before. That's the reason the ash chamber is smaller than the rest.

Larger in every dimension: 4" vs 3.5" tube size. 3.5" burn basket vs 3.0" (3.0" exterior means 2.5" inside the basket side to side) 24" sides vs 18". Even the hopper size is bigger. I should be able to put near 2 bags in it if I calculated right. (but it will be 2 full bags AFTER I open the stove feed...calculations tell me I'm a few cubic inches short. Hopper will hold at least 1.5 bags though)

Pellet hopper and pellet feed will be removable just in case it doesn't work perfectly, I'll be able to remove it and fix/replace it. It also has a different design using both a horizontal AND vertical feed opening to help with the bridging. And hopefully a 4" stack output instead of the 3" now.

Single door on the left will open to access all 3 tubes; ash, secondary and primary burn area. Different length made a single door impossible, and a slide door on the ash a requirement. All will now have the single point of access. Door will have a vent on the ash tube. Opening the current slide just a tiny bit (1/8") really reduces the density of the ash....from black chunks of charcoal into the fine gray powder that it's supposed to be.

Oh, and TIG welding everything will hopefully make for a bit better asthetics with less grinding over the MIG. It's still heavy welding, but the smaller welds will look better. And welding the 20ga hoppers was a dream with the TIG. (huge cool factor for me!)

What shortcomings in V1 are you hoping to improve apon?
Heat output: My house stays at 70 upstairs. I'd really like to make 75. It's the only thing heating the house, which is good, but I'd just like output a bit more. Larger tubes will also help with cleaning.

The pellet feed system. "I" screwed up in thinking I could trick gravity in helping even a little bit in changing direction of pellet flow....everything was to slide towards the front then down. V1.0 feeds out the side of the hopper towards the front, that change of direction works most of the time. Most of the time ain't good enough for me. V2.0 will feed out the front corner with both horizontal and vertical opening. Hopper and most of the feed system will be removable, and help me remove it/fix it if this one doesn't work. A 2.5" to 3" drop as compared to the 2.5" straight should help some of the bridging. Pellets in the tube seem to slightly expand (or get sticky) as they get closer to the heat, and ocassionally bridge at the entrance to the burn basket. Tube orientation is traight down, and they still bridge. Having the openings get bigger as it drops 'should' help with that, instead of straight through and possibly removing/reducing the effects of the sticking pellets.

I've mentally come up with a better design for my basket. Practical application will be tested on this one. Having the 'sides' of the basket part of the combustion chamber, but having the bottom of the basket a single 'plate' that can be easily removed/replaced instead of the big basket of the "W" stove, and my solid chamber with the slots cut out. I welded in the rods with this one, and it working so much better than the slot cuts of the last one. The replaceable basket I had at first might still be feasable, but slight expansion/contraction and the hard ash stuck to the sides of the basket sometimes made it a PITA to get out.

What is the fuel range per day for V1, sounds like it has a pretty healthy appetite already?
Right now running it can range between 30-60lbs per day, depending on how I run it. I'm averaging 44lbs right now running it at about 500F all day. I can run it at 650F and get 30lbs per day (shut all but 1/4 OA with 1/4 exhaust) or empty it in 10hrs with everything full open...but only maintaining 400F. The more air it gets, the faster it burns, but the cooler the stack and less heat transmits through the walls. Bassackward, but that's how it runs.
 
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Mega cool I have to say.
Yes sticking pellets are no good. I haven't heard about the Wiseway having an issue but they are insistent on using quality pellets. That may be a large part of trick. If you want to burn rubbish then maybe gravity feed is not the way to go.
Do you think there is a correlation between stove temp and sticking? ie do you have more problems if the stove is hotter?.
I'm pretty sure m issue is more the way it feeds than heat or anything else. With premium pellets (pine or hardwood...or actually ANY pellets) the issue comes from stupidity on my part. I should have fed it straight down and not trying to get gravity to make an exception for me. Also, the tube feeding constricts somewhat, going from 2.5" to about 2.4" at the bottom (the nature of using car exhaust pipe fittings). New one will go from 2" or 2.5" at the top to 3.0" at the bottom, and it'll work WITH gravity this time. (Gravity: It's not just a good idea, it's the LAW!) I think it's just a matter of making sure things don't get smaller.

Heat can be an issue, but it seems to be only if it's already getting tight in the tube. I think that is taken care of with this next one. BUT, you can only mitigate heat to a point when your feed tube ends || this far above the fire. There's also a bit of fresh air coming through the pellets into the tube into the firebox. That keeps it cooler than the reverse and the air coming back up from the bottom :) Some type of sleeve, or something like a dielectric to prevent or reduce heat transfer between the feed tube and the combustion area....hmmm....I think I might have that idea running around in my head. Hmmm.... I think I got that covered now ;)

You are dealing with so many variables at the same time that getting ideal performance is a real big ask..
The American phrase of "No $h!t" comes to mind ;) While I expected that everyone goes through this when starting from scratch, I'd hoped I'd learned a bit seeing how others have done theirs. But, as with anything 'new', there are bugs. If you can fix the bugs, things work. If not, or if you don't want to, you get another lawn ornament or another trip to the scrap yard. While being in WV, lawn ornaments are OK, but only if it's a used appliance or an old car with the wheels off. This would almost be considered 'art'...and some folks would think I'm uppity....and I'm kinda scared of banjo's. (see the movie Deliverance if you're unsure of the comparison!) :) LOL!

As I see it getting the fuel supply and burn system right are the most important and it sounds like you are getting there. Keeping the heat exchanger tubes clean is also very important and it sounds like you are onto that as well..
I think the original 2" was just too small, also getting the burn right. Bad burn/unknown 'ratio' = too much smoke = too much soot = clogged pipes. They can be cleaned with a long bottle brush (from amazon.com) but being able to get the regular stove brush into them will be much nicer. Original one used round holes cut into the large tubes, and the cross tubes welded over them. A 2" holesaw doesn't account for the corners, and I didn't file or grind them out. (hell, I didn't think it would even work when I first started) The new one has full sized square holes cut into them. Instead of 'corners' (round tube/square hole), it's pretty close fit. Should assist with both airflow and ash/soot removal. Especially the use of 3" cross tubes.

Minimum combustion air flow is important as you describe. This also reduces particulate matter which is a problem (i think) with the Wiseway but could be addressed. The downside is that crud will build up quicker in the tubes which is why easy cleaning is so important..
'zactly. A fan would really assist the combustion, but that kinda defeats the purpose. I'm hoping more, or at least better airflow, through it will help in all regards.

You and I have very different heating requirements so I would see 44lbs as the maximum anyone would want to burn here. 30lbs is a average 24hr run for us so you are well in the range we want. I think using heat recovery from the flue would improve efficiency further but that is not an issue at this point..
We've seen -20F through 115F here in the past 14yrs I've been in WV. I've seen snow that only the top few feet of the telephone poles stuck out of, to winters with little/no snowfall and more above freezing days than below freezing. While it will be completely dependent on how much heat the owner wants, there will still be variables in how fast it wants to feed. Fast burning pellet = less heat = more used to get it warm and the inverse as well. Throw in a correct or incorrect installation, cross winds, humidity, pressures....ballpark is all we'll ever get. I'm sure manufacturers have been 'bothered' by folks asking those questions since the beginning of time: "Why doesn't my stove do "exactly" what you said it would do?" Yeah....I love those kinda people too!

From a construction point of view I would be using mig in a jig with either the robot or by hand so easy layout will eventually be important. If the stove has separate parts it makes manufacturing much easier. You dont need to worry about that. I can adapt the successful design for mass production. I am not concerned that your hopper won't hold 2 bags. Most of our customers pour their fuel into buckets then into the hopper. Height and ease of access is most important, even 1 bag is enough..
Using all 'stock' materials will help greatly, since they're the easiest to acquire. I hate having to special order anything. Having someone build your hoppers (just a can with a slope towards the hole) to your spec will be a simple matter. Building a jig for this will be easy as it's all right angles. I cut all the materials (and most holes) using a plasma cutter and a speed square. http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-SO101-7-inch-Speed-Square/dp/B00002255O/ The use of a CNC would only be needed for the burn chamber, and only if you didn't want to clean up after a plasma is done. (oh, and the cool factor of having a CNC in your garage!!!)

I am really interested in the concept and we will have the fuel supply (from a large new mill in Australia) by mid year so I see great potential for a gravity stove in 2016 in Australia. I would be most interested in seeing pics or rough sketches of your ideas and want to work with you on this. Please contact me directly.
Great. Seems the market is slowly filling in the blanks in a wide open market. Is there much of a market for pellet stoves, or is it more/still wood/biomass? We can get the whole email chain started, maybe a file share site to make it easier to pass documents back and forth. While I'm partially a computer guy, I'm mostly a hands on, shake hands, hold this wrench kinda guy. You might have other ideas, and since you're paying ;), I'll let you tell me what you need to see.

I cannot come over now because we are about to move into heating season but could visit in October onwards. My wife is going to LA in November but she would kill me if I sent her to see a stove! One of my manufacturing associates is in the US regularly and I could send him to see you if we can get things moving. Lets make a date.
Will do. I'm sure we can come up with something. Let me prove this next one works, and we'll set something up. Even in WV we have Skype (what I was using to talk to my brother in Tazzie, when he's not on the ice) We'll work something out.

And for everyone else, I'll keep updating here as long as it won't cause issuees between Chickenman and myself if we enter into some type of agreement. I'm usually a 'here it is, anyone can build one' post it all and let you go from there. But that might become an issue in the future.

I'll be in the shop. I have a few things to work out.
 
I found the 3.5X3.5X.250 A500 tube in a managable length that a: didn't break the bank and b: allowed for testing with out breaking the bank. 44lbs of steel (36" of the tube) headed this way for under $70...and $40 of that was shipping it.
BUT, I'll have it Monday and I didn't have to buy the full 24' stick to get it.
Almost $12 foot to buy it locally with a minimum purchase of 24', $23ft to buy it online no minimum. If it doesn't work, I'm only out $70ish, not $281.
Sucks, but that's how it works.
 
enjoy reading this thread . takes me back 15 years when I first started experimenting on the wiseway. there are a lot you still have to learn. I'll just point out a couple of them. your square heat ex changer does not slow the draft down enough to bring your flew gas temp down. you will not be able to use pellet vent pipe because your flew gas temp will exceed its rating and class A vent pipe is very hard to find in anything less that 5" I have found on the wiseway that 32 degree bends work best. At 30 degrees it slows the draft down to much and at 34 degrees the flew gas temps are to high. In order to sell your stove it will need to be EPA certified and need to be safety tested or you can't put it in a home . I have spent over $40,000 in testing and every time I make improvements in the stove I need to retest before I can sell it. Product liability insurance is very expensive. One more very important expense to you if you choose to market your stove is the royalties you will need to pay me. I spent 6 1/2 years and tens of thousands of dollars to get my utility patent ( just so you know a utility patent is the way something works not how it looks changing my W shape into a square does not circumvent my patent.) As long as you intend to build and experiment on this for personal use have at it.,but if you intend on marketing it you will have to deal with all these issues.
Have fun Gary
 
Cool, you have my address, drop me a note please.....
Yessir.... on the way.
Tee Australian market is primarily wood burners. Current annual sales are around 35,000 units per year. Our manufacturer supplies 12,000 of those (unfortunately not through us). In comparison pellet stoves are minute. Annual sales are in the order of 350 of which we sold 300. Why is the market so small; pellets are way too expensive at $1,000/ton. Why is our share so big; we are the only company who have done any development and stand behind our stoves as multi-fuel. Plus the large retailers can make more money selling their current wood burners so why would they muddy the waters with some pellet thingy?
$1000ton? I thought the local stove shop was expensive,....damn! (See below on a 'solution' if the other one doesn't work out)
EVERYONE has access to wood...especially in the dead of night...even if it's on someone else's property ;-) I've got nearly 3ac of trees on my property, and most of the cut wood seems to head out the back side away from the house. :| The kid is going to get a work-out this summer. I have a lot of clearing, shopping and stacking that needs done. He wants to learn how to operate a chainsaw....he's gonna earn it.
Is there potential here? Hell Yeah! When we started 5 years ago there were no sales whatsoever and no one knew what a pellet stove was. It is definitely snowballing as people get an idea of what the concept is. Normally we see no demand until Easter, this year we have sold 10 units in the last week. Things are on the move. We are hoping for 500 this year.
Good luck. A "no electricity required" might help that blossom a bit. I have heard so many 'my wife doesn't like the noise' since I've been talking to folks....amazing not more folks have come up with a solution.
Of course we are starting to see some competition from the majors as it is in their nature to not let a competitor get a free run but our price, knowledge, service and products are all superior so people go to them for a look then on to us to buy.
Without cheaper pellet prices we need to rely on our multi-fuel conventional stoves but if we get cheaper pellets (which I will confirm in a couple of weeks when one of our stoves goes in for Aussie Standard testing by the same company that will be building the pellet plant) the the market will open up for gravity feed stoves, if we can get down to the 1.0gm/kg particulate standard. We do it now, I see no reason why we cannot make yours do it as well. If you can make it work, we can make it work better.
Market looks ripe for the picking....IF the pellet mill starts up. If not, that 'could' be a great next business. I hesitate to use Chinese and Quality in the same sentence, but some of their larger pellet mills have been getting decent reviews, and right now they aren't 'that' expensive. I'm sure there's a .au.gov program that would help with the purchase and business start up? Maybe even for a domestic or European model? The German ones are both extremely efficient AND extremely expensive. Hell of an initial investment, but in a proven market a smart call. Emerging market....not so sure.
Is that Tasmania? When you email send his number and I will give him a call.
He's still on the ice if I understand it (McMurdo if I'm not mistaken) and I'm not sure of his plans for 'off season'. I think they're going to stay in Taz, but??? He has dual citizenship, has worked for taz.gov his last time there, so he's probably an easy hire. We don't talk too much.
Small world, we have it too! My computer is over 15 years old with very few upgrades so it does not like it. I use QQ on the phone all the time, like skype on steroids. That is our best bet I can set you up with it no sweat. Still I get 100 free minutes per month of international calls so send your number and I will just call.
We'll figure it out. I am working on getting a cell that works. Cell phone doesn't work at the house most days and I don't have a landline. Since no one calls except my mother, there's really no need for me to push it.
 
enjoy reading this thread . takes me back 15 years when I first started experimenting on the wiseway. there are a lot you still have to learn. I'll just point out a couple of them. your square heat ex changer does not slow the draft down enough to bring your flew gas temp down. you will not be able to use pellet vent pipe because your flew gas temp will exceed its rating and class A vent pipe is very hard to find in anything less that 5" I have found on the wiseway that 32 degree bends work best. At 30 degrees it slows the draft down to much and at 34 degrees the flew gas temps are to high. In order to sell your stove it will need to be EPA certified and need to be safety tested or you can't put it in a home . I have spent over $40,000 in testing and every time I make improvements in the stove I need to retest before I can sell it. Product liability insurance is very expensive. One more very important expense to you if you choose to market your stove is the royalties you will need to pay me. I spent 6 1/2 years and tens of thousands of dollars to get my utility patent ( just so you know a utility patent is the way something works not how it looks changing my W shape into a square does not circumvent my patent.) As long as you intend to build and experiment on this for personal use have at it.,but if you intend on marketing it you will have to deal with all these issues.
Have fun Gary
You've patented gravity? I don't mean to be an ass on this, but I have a feeling you and I are going to be discussing this a lot.
 
I have my buttered popcorn all ready for consumption......:)
 
He isn't selling he is donation all his stoves.to his good Aussie friend.

He doesn't make a profit he in a non profit heating ministry for poor Australian children freezing on the out back.....
 
OOOHHH, I love a good cage fight!!! I think I know who's going to win, though, having dealt with utility patents in my former life. :)
 
You've patented gravity? I don't mean to be an ass on this, but I have a feeling you and I are going to be discussing this a lot.
sorry not trying to open a can of worms , Its not gravity that is patented it is the way gravity feeds the pellets duel burn chambers the basket the secondary burn plate the way the draft is controlled and the air flow through the stove that is patented. If you can build a gravity feed stove not using these patented processes more power to you. You are where i was 15 years ago. in order for you to pass the EPA testing you need to control the fuel burn rate precisely in 4 different burn rates for 3 hours each. That is very difficult to do with a gravity feed stove. Good luck wish you the best. (you have referenced wiseway several times in your threads so it will not be hard show that you are aware of what you are doing.
Gary
 
Popcorn.gif
 
Gary: Not to worry.
I already mentioned I had no interest in selling them commercially in the US.
Too many .gov agencies in the mix, and too many liability issues.
I don't have to fill a house with smoke and flames to figure that out.

And yes, I have referenced Wiseway several times.
It's kinda hard to reference all the other gravity fed pellet stoves out there.
I won't reference yours again. I Promise.

You might, however, want to discuss approval and certification agencies with the guy who alerted you to these threads.
He seemed to be the resident expert on the process in the other thread.
Maybe he was the one that got you your UL listing, since he's adamant that the UL doesn't approve pellet appliances.
Interesting that he hasn't mentioned that to you.

If chickenman can make a bunch of this design in Australia, more power to him.
He already has all the information I had, sent freely and without financial interest or compensation.
I might, however, ask for Tiah Eckhardt's phone number....since they're practically neighbors ;)

For the rest of the world, my drawings will also be released free of charge to anyone who wants them.
They'll be out on the web shortly.
Not like you can't figure out what you need from the drawings, but it'll probably make things easier.

For those that were interested in this project, thanks for the kind words.

Mods: you can go ahead and delete the threads and my account.
I got all I needed here, and it was everything I'd expected to find.
 
Gary: Not to worry.
I already mentioned I had no interest in selling them commercially in the US.
Too many .gov agencies in the mix, and too many liability issues.
I don't have to fill a house with smoke and flames to figure that out.

And yes, I have referenced Wiseway several times.
It's kinda hard to reference all the other gravity fed pellet stoves out there.
I won't reference yours again. I Promise.

You might, however, want to discuss approval and certification agencies with the guy who alerted you to these threads.
He seemed to be the resident expert on the process in the other thread.
Maybe he was the one that got you your UL listing, since he's adamant that the UL doesn't approve pellet appliances.
Interesting that he hasn't mentioned that to you.

If chickenman can make a bunch of this design in Australia, more power to him.
He already has all the information I had, sent freely and without financial interest or compensation.
I might, however, ask for Tiah Eckhardt's phone number....since they're practically neighbors ;)

For the rest of the world, my drawings will also be released free of charge to anyone who wants them.
They'll be out on the web shortly.
Not like you can't figure out what you need from the drawings, but it'll probably make things easier.

For those that were interested in this project, thanks for the kind words.

Mods: you can go ahead and delete the threads and my account.
I got all I needed here, and it was everything I'd expected to find.




Injoyed reading about your experiments I just wanted to caution you please don't stop because of what I posted you have done nothing wrong as long as you don't plan on manufacturing for sale. I only posted because you eluded to selling in US
Gary
 
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