Blower or NO blower on the NC -30 Englander

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Seasoned Oak

Minister of Fire
Oct 17, 2008
7,215
Eastern Central PA
Can anyone who has installed a blower on their NC-30 after first running it for a time without, weigh in on the difference in performance noted. Would you do it again? is it worth the cost?
I have 2 NC-30s no blower on either. For one thing the blower did not come with the stove and is over $100
I do use a fan to blow some of the 700 degree stovetop heat around before its lost up the flue, and also helps when the stovetop starts approaching 800 Deg. My single wall stove pipe temp before it goes into the chimney is about 300f.
 
Do you need more heat? I believe that you can get more heat from the stove with a blower. Making a 3c.f. stove perform like a 4c.f. stove.

Don't buy the ac16 little blower. Your experience will be better with the larger output ac30.
 
Do you need more heat? I believe that you can get more heat from the stove with a blower. Making a 3c.f. stove perform like a 4c.f. stove.

Don't buy the ac16 little blower. Your experience will be better with the larger output ac30.
Been lookin at that, Its like $189 at Home Depot.
 
Your rate of wood consumption would go up with the fan though, no?

Hopefully. That is how you know your getting more heat.

Speaking as a newcomer to wood heating...

I don't see how moving heat from the stove surface into the room increases the rate the wood burns at. You aren't blowing the air into the fire (which of course would increase the burn rate as well as possibly melt the stove)

Willing to believe either one of us is wrong - what is the reasoning for thinking the burn rate increases with external blower?
 
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For one, the air to the stove probably has to be increased to continue to have a nice burn.
 
Speaking as a newcomer to wood heating...

I don't see how moving heat from the stove surface into the room increases the rate the wood burns at. You aren't blowing the air into the fire (which of course would increase the burn rate as well as possibly melt the stove)

Willing to believe either one of us is wrong - what is the reasoning for thinking the burn rate increases with external blower?

You must first understand two things, blowing on a 700 d
Speaking as a newcomer to wood heating...

I don't see how moving heat from the stove surface into the room increases the rate the wood burns at. You aren't blowing the air into the fire (which of course would increase the burn rate as well as possibly melt the stove)

Willing to believe either one of us is wrong - what is the reasoning for thinking the burn rate increases with external blower?

First you have to understand that blowing 70 degree air on a 600 degree stove will cool it like a spoon of soup. The harder you blow, the faster it cools as the cold air steals heat from the stove. To maintain a 600 degree stove you have to add heat at a rate equal to the heat being removed by the blown cold air.

So the second assumption is that you will act to maintain the stove temp by increasing the burn rate. Some stoves, like my bk, do this automatically in response to the blowers cooling the stove. On the nc30 you would turn up the combustion air feed. Either will increase wood consumption.

The result is that you are able to burn more wood and deliver that extra heat to the room. This gives the effect of a larger stove. Not unlike fitting a naturally aspirated engine with a turbo.
 
I have a different stove, a Jotul F55. But I can say I love the blower for the reasons stated. It helps cool the stovetop just slightly during a hot load, pushes just enough heat off the stove so the stove gets a breath of fresh air. I like mine. I have run mine with and without a couple loads each and it does help me.
 
I now use a box fan when the stovetop gets over 650-700 to tame it down a bit. But id like to do away with the box fan.
 
This stove is in my workshop so i want a lot of heat as fast as i can get it.
 
I could be mistaken but i don't think thats right.

Blowers alone won't increase burn rate. To maintain stove temp you must increase the burn rate by adding fuel or air. Bk stoves do that automatically with their thermostat. Folks report double the wood consumption when running blowers vs. Not.
 
The assumption here is that the blower is on to create more heat, but it doesn't. It just convects the heat off the stove quicker. The stove top will cool down with the blower on by 100-150F. However, because you want more heat, as the stove cools down maybe you open up the air control (or set the thermostat) higher to keep up with the blower. That will consume more fuel. It's pushing the stove harder by making the fire burn hotter that consumes more fuel.

To get back to Seasoned Oak, the answer is - depends on several factors like the stove location, floorplan, outside conditions, fuel, etc.. Our stove convects naturally very well and our house has an open floorplan. Without the blower the overall temperature in the house is quite even until it gets below 20F outside. Under 20F the extremities of the house start are cooler. Turning on the blower on low to medium speed and running the stove hotter helps bring up the temps in those locations. This is with no other fans in the house helping convection. I'm guessing I could probably equal the stove blower's effect by blowing cooler air from the extremities into the stove room.
 
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I now use a box fan when the stovetop gets over 650-700 to tame it down a bit. But id like to do away with the box fan.
I'll bet the box fan is way cheaper (paid for) and just as effective. In a shop I would stick with the box fan.
 
... Folks report double the wood consumption when running blowers vs. Not.

I find that very hard to believe. Blower vs No has been ask on here dozens if not hundreds of times and if you sift through the responses, the overall theme is " turned my stove from a radiant one-room heater to a convective whole house heat machine"

When you look at the system overall, the goal is to heat the house. The stretch goal is generally to heat the house with as little wood as possible. So the question comes down to: Does a blower get more heat out of the stove and put less up the flue? The common sense answer has to be "yes" for the same reason cars have radiator fans, or you blow on soup to cool it down, or forced air heating is an advancement over gravity feed, etc ...the moving air extracts more heat from the radiator than without.

When you say 'burns more wood with a blower' - one generally thinks of keeping the stove at the same temperature. While that isolated instance may be true, in considering the whole system (and since we know from above we are logically getting more heat out of the stove with the blower) - then it means the house would also be hotter, or the user would shut the stove down more to maintain the same house temp, or the user would put less wood in the stove because a 400F stove with the blower is now delivering the heat of a 600F stove with no blower. In any case, more heat in the house / less up the flue has resulted in less wood consumption, not more.

About the only case I can imagine which would be close, or maybe break-even is a stove in a big, high ceiling room with a lot of exposed single wall pipe. In that instance, a fan might not do much good because the the combined stove+flue pipe surface is enough to radiate all heat possible... sort of like having a car with a swimming pool for a radiator ...no fan needed! Conversely, fireplace inserts benefit greatly from a blower, because the exposed radiant surface is generally very small and/or enclosed in a second / double wall construction and the flue pipe is enclosed in the old FP flue.
 
I can say that on my stove, the flue temp does not change dramatically with the blower on. Just the stove top temp drops noticeably.
 
I actually like how my 30 burns better with no blower. Last year I ran the blower almost constantly. This year the blower has been replaced with small 10in floor fan pointing toward the stove. Floor fan ran quieter, was cheaper than the stove fan, and had almost identical if not better heating results. The cooling of the stove fan was not boding well for my setup, especially with night burns when you cant adjust the primary air up half way through the burn
 
When you say 'burns more wood with a blower' - one generally thinks of keeping the stove at the same temperature. While that isolated instance may be true, in considering the whole system (and since we know from above we are logically getting more heat out of the stove with the blower) - then it means the house would also be hotter, or the user would shut the stove down more to maintain the same house temp, or the user would put less wood in the stove because a 400F stove with the blower is now delivering the heat of a 600F stove with no blower. In any case, more heat in the house / less up the flue has resulted in less wood consumption, not more.

Still fairly new to the epa stove scene, but I'm probably behind this line of thinking. I rarely turn up the air when I run the fan (unless I'm going for max heat), as I'm not trying to maintain X temperature, just to stay within the burn range temperature. The heat is transfered from the firebox to the outer shell, but I don't believe the drop on the outside matches the firebox, which has an active burning fire laying in it. I also run my fan in cycles when it's run, 15 minutes or so, then off for a bit. Not sure if that really matters here.
 
I'll bet the box fan is way cheaper (paid for) and just as effective. In a shop I would stick with the box fan.

The box fans do work but they are loud, ugly, and in the way. Easy to tip over too.
 
I find that very hard to believe. Blower vs No has been ask on here dozens if not hundreds of times and if you sift through the responses, the overall theme is " turned my stove from a radiant one-room heater to a convective whole house heat machine"

When you look at the system overall, the goal is to heat the house. The stretch goal is generally to heat the house with as little wood as possible. So the question comes down to: Does a blower get more heat out of the stove and put less up the flue? The common sense answer has to be "yes" for the same reason cars have radiator fans, or you blow on soup to cool it down, or forced air heating is an advancement over gravity feed, etc ...the moving air extracts more heat from the radiator than without.

When you say 'burns more wood with a blower' - one generally thinks of keeping the stove at the same temperature. While that isolated instance may be true, in considering the whole system (and since we know from above we are logically getting more heat out of the stove with the blower) - then it means the house would also be hotter, or the user would shut the stove down more to maintain the same house temp, or the user would put less wood in the stove because a 400F stove with the blower is now delivering the heat of a 600F stove with no blower. In any case, more heat in the house / less up the flue has resulted in less wood consumption, not more.

About the only case I can imagine which would be close, or maybe break-even is a stove in a big, high ceiling room with a lot of exposed single wall pipe. In that instance, a fan might not do much good because the the combined stove+flue pipe surface is enough to radiate all heat possible... sort of like having a car with a swimming pool for a radiator ...no fan needed! Conversely, fireplace inserts benefit greatly from a blower, because the exposed radiant surface is generally very small and/or enclosed in a second / double wall construction and the flue pipe is enclosed in the old FP flue.

The assumption you're making is that the stove with no blower is making enough heat. If so, then no blower is needed. If not, then a blower extracts (not creates) more heat from the stove and the user or the thermostat must increase the burn rate to maintain stove top temp.

Bottom line is that a proper blower system will increase the possible btu output of a stove by allowing a higher burn rate while operating under the max allowable stove top temp.
 
I need a lot of heat fast. As this is a workshop and the room temp is usually about 35 degrees without the stove going. My flue temp usually dont go much over 300 even though i can see flames through a screw hole in the pipe flange going into the flue pipe. I usually adjust the air down until i cant see flames going up the flue anymore.
 
I need a lot of heat fast. As this is a workshop and the room temp is usually about 35 degrees without the stove going. My flue temp usually dont go much over 300 even though i can see flames through a screw hole in the pipe flange going into the flue pipe. I usually adjust the air down until i cant see flames going up the flue anymore.

Then you're like me with the nc30 in furnace mode. You operate at max safe output for hours and wish they had a 5 c.f. model. We are the reason that blowers are made. In our application I am having great results from adding a convection deck and a blower 60% larger than the ac30. My operating procedure is 700 stove top, 350 single wall flue skin, 160 cfm of blower, lots of flames, zero visible emissions, air at around 50%, and clear glass.
 
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