Attic/Whole house fan. spring & fall issues

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Blackjack Dan

Blackjack Dan

Member
Jan 2, 2015
52
Nathrop Co & Gans Ok
www.arklahomarental.com
I think I'm posting this in the right area, my current stove is a 1985 Country Flame CM, And very soon will be upgrading to a new EPA type stove. Problem I have with my old Country Flame is in the spring and fall when I turn the attic fan on (this thing can suck the snot right out of your nose) and pending barometer, wind direction and perhaps somebody got cold an shut some windows, I get a downdraft through my stove and the bad smell that comes with it.

My Country Flame I have learned, rather than take the time to put on new door gaskets ( the air controls are in the doors also) I simply make a temporary gasket out of aluminum foil and seal the stove up tight and this is a fix for my problem. This is much easier than changing out door gaskets or chimney caps/vents on the roof which the top of my chimney is about 30 feet high.

So my question is with the new stoves I'm looking at some have top load, front or side load and some with ash drawers, it will be imperative all of those will have to have good gaskets. What about the air control or thermostats as some stoves call them? Many on this forum comment on how the new stoves allow more air so as to burn more efficient so how can I close the stove off totally? So not to get a downdraft using my attic fan in the spring and fall? Will I have to use duct tape? and is one stove better about this than another?
 
Open more windows or you could maybe plug the flue pipe or cap it. You are right, the newer stoves don't close the air off 100%.
 
Is the only vent for the fan in the upstairs ceiling? It sounds like the attic needs an opposite gable vent so that it is not putting such a draw on the house. Or reduce the speed of the fan a lot by changing pulleys or if a multi-speed motor, choosing the lowest speed tap.

Otherwise, maybe install a telescoping section of pipe for the last length at the stove and put a plastic bag over the end, then reconnect the pipe. Put a giant note in the stove warning not to start the stove without removing the plastic.
 
Yes we could change the pulley out on the fan it's an industrial type fan for chicken house! We like how powerful it is we can have a good draft with every window open. Just wondering if the new stoves after you play around with them a while if you can figure out how to shut them up tight if necessary using duct tape aluminum foil or whatever?
 
It depends, some stoves have a single intake that splits off to primary and secondary manifolds and some don't. But any stove can have the flue blocked off by the method I mentioned. It would take 5 minutes to do this for the summer.
 
Anything I go with needs a rear exhaust/flu how close/short do they make telescoping pipe? I am from Oklahoma I don't know, I think I would just feel better if I could put some duct tape on something!
 
get the new stove then worry about it. I have a whole house fan and don't think I have ever had an issue pulling material out of the stove. occasionally will get a smell from wood smoke the stove, when the fan is on and I walk past the stove. but that's maybe once a year. sit back and wait... if its an issue after the replacement, then worry.
 
If you still have smell with all your windows open, I think your issue lies more with the cleaning of your flue and stove. If you give your flue a good scrub after the season and throw a tub of Damprid in the firebox there, that may be your biggest culprit. And an EPA will seal the air off somewhat more efficiently I think.
 
You have to provide a make up air supply that is greater than the exhaust ability of the WH fan or you can have all kinds of problem not just with you stove. Get the stove you want and put in a deliberate make up air source like a outside air vent with motorized damper.
 
Maybe I should rephrase the question.

What large modern stoves have a rear exhaust/flue? And the air control is accessible to block it off in the off season?

What about these: Jotul F600, VC Defiant Flexburn, Quadrafire Isle Royale?
 
I think the F600 and Isle Royale have a single 4" OAK inlet. Not sure about the VC. The slip section minimum length is going to depend on the brand and type of pipe (single or double wall). In DuraVent DVL they make it as short as 6" for example. But if the entire length is 18" it would be better perhaps to just get one longer slip connector to do the entire connection.
 
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If this is a whole house designed to exchange air in the living space not just the attic then I wouldn't over think it. Stuff the flue with insulation or something and call it a day.

If it's just an attic fan that's sucking air from the living space then I would figure out a way to slow it down since it's pulling conditioned air out of the living space.
 
The whole point to a whole house fan is to bring in outside air because it is better than what is already inside. That means it will seriously drop the pressure inside your home. If you don't want anything from the chimney to end up in the living space, block that off. Sorry to be so blunt but that is how I see it.
 
Open a few more windows. I had a similar issue once when someone turned the attics fans (I have two) on but didn't open enough windows. It pulled the exhaust out of the oil boiler all the way down in the basement back into the house. Not good!
 
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