I just replaced the door gasket on my Clydesdale after the old one started falling out. Used Rutland 1/2 inch gasket. The old gasket didn't pass the dollar bill test and the new one doesn't either. Should I try it on a warm stove or do I need to regasket the old horse? Thoughts on firing it up and seeing how it goes? I didn't stretch the gasket out very much on the instal, so I'm a bit disappointed.
Door gasket and the dollar bill test
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Poindexter
Minister of Fire
I am pretty sure you want it to pass while cold.
Any of begreen, grisu and BrotherBart will know for sure, as well as several others I can't name off the top of my head.
I encourage you to keep the stove cold for a bit longer.
Any of begreen, grisu and BrotherBart will know for sure, as well as several others I can't name off the top of my head.
I encourage you to keep the stove cold for a bit longer.
I would not be firing that dude up. If it doesn't pass when cold it means you have uncontrolled air entering the stove. Who knows what that will do when lit up.
Not all gaskets are created equal. Some are flat, some are round, different sizes, etc. You really need to get the proper size gasket to start with.
ETA: if the half inch stuff isn't big enough, move up to the next size. If you need a rather odd size you may have to work with a stove shop to find it. An example of the old gasket will help in identifying it.
Not all gaskets are created equal. Some are flat, some are round, different sizes, etc. You really need to get the proper size gasket to start with.
ETA: if the half inch stuff isn't big enough, move up to the next size. If you need a rather odd size you may have to work with a stove shop to find it. An example of the old gasket will help in identifying it.
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Grisu
Minister of Fire
The manual says 1/2" low density gasket so the size at least seems to be correct. Maybe there is more of a latch problem than the gasket? Check the hinges, as the door can be reversed and maybe they have come loose. The manual also talks about possibly adjusting the spring tension in the latch but gives no instructions how to do it. Maybe call Hearthstone or talk to your dealer.
Just adjusted the latch on my clyde after it failed the $ test. I could not get it to go tight enough. There was about 1/16" play in it. What I ended up doing was cutting down the length of the latch/bolt. Mine would bottom out on the cast handle and it would not adjust further. Cut it spun the cast handle farther than the set screw slot so the spring compressed more and I also removed one of the gold washers. Much better now. Not perfect but better. I have attached the instructions on replacing the latch in there it talks about how to adjust for a better seal. Hope it helps.
iluvjazznjava
Member
I know my Jotul stove has some shims on the door hinges that are supposed to be removed if the door doesn't seal well. Does you Clydesdale have something similar?
Haven't seen any shims. I'm going to redo the job this weekend with less stretch on the install. Thanks for the help so far.
Well, I ripped the new gasket out replaced it with a new one. I didn't stretcu it out when putting it in and the door shuts snugly and passes the dollar bill test. Going to light it in a bit and see how it goes.
Just an update - burning well and glad I redid everything. Hit a really cold snap and happy to be getting the longer and hotter burns.
Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for all the help!
xman23
Minister of Fire
After you do a few gaskets it gets easy,don't stretch them. .I had a few get loose with that hard gasket cement. I use high temp silicon, much better.
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