Help with Englander 25 PDVC

Welcome to the forum - changed the title a bit so other owners of the same stove will chime in. Checked the manual quick looking for a snap disc that might be at fault but it appears that this stove has a thermal sensor. This would be what I would be looking at as something is telling the blower the temperature of burn is high enough to transfer heat... Good luck.

You can also call Englander tomorrow. I know it won't help you right now but from what I've heard they stand behind their stoves and will help where they can. Mike Holton is a member here and also the lead tech, as in boss, at Englander. He might have answered your request for help if it weren't his busiest time of year.

If you don't get the help you need today call them tomorrow. How much protection does your surge protection provide?
It sounds as though something got fried during the power outage. Whether that be a sensor or a control box other members or Englander will be able to help you.

Good luck.

First off ......

How long was the power out for ?

Was the stove hot when the power came back on ?

Answer these two questions and we will go from there.

I doubt from your description that there is anything broken, but there is a high probability that the control board will need to be reset and then set to the correct mode. There are threads here that explain how to do that, or you could have ESW walk you through the process. It's not difficult, just an obscure procedure.

Sylvester said:

I have found how to do a reset by unplugging then plug back in and hold the 3 buttons on the control board wait for F5 to show then unplug and plug in and hold both up and down fan buttons to set mode. It is on D mode with 6 4 1 set on bottom buttons. Maybe i did something wrong.

Still do not understand why room fan starts as soon as i plug it back in.

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If the reset did not correct the problem with the convection blower running when the stove is cold, the control board may be damaged. There is an electronic switch called a triac on the control board that switches 120V power to the convection blower. Transients on the ac line may have caused failure of that switch.
It is generally considered good practice to have any pellet stove plugged into a good power line transient surpressor. I personally like Isobar by Tripplite.

You may find something using the search box at the top - just make sure you have the right board or triac as I know there have been many postings about Harman boards. If you don't have any luck with the schematics of the board & triac #, you can always buy a new board and fix up the old one for back-up.

Sylvester said:

Pellet stove 25-PDVC when I turn the stove on the room blower turns on at the same time full speed. We had a a power outage while it was running and when we got power back it was not running right, Would a faulty Heat sensor be causing the problem? It starts and runs but will shut down after a few minutes with an E2 and the whole time the room blower is running at full speed.

If the stove is unplugged and is plugged back in the room blower will start running again at full speed before I even hit the on button. The stove was plugged into a surge outlet from Home Depot.

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I owned that model, but sold it to my boyfriend to use in his mobile home. I'm glad to say that he has been using it and liking it, but he isnt a pellet stove maintainence boy....so he's learning. Some weird stuff that happened so far to the Englander was that one of the auger motor wires actually got disconnected- it fell off because of poor assembly and motor movement. So then, the blower motor worked, but stove wouldn't feed pellets. He also blew the circuit board fuse during a power outage. Then the stove wouldnt feed pellets because the hopper was jammed up at the bottom from pellet fines. Thats because I dumped some old pellet stock on him, which had fines at the bottom. He's filled the house with smoke a couple of times, courtesy of me and my straight through the wall vent when the power went out. Just the other day, his elderly dad took the shop vac and sucked out hot ash. It set the $25 dollar vacuum filter on fire and my boyfriend remarked how the filter "smoldered all night in the snow till it burned away to nothing". The Englander is a blast and there is help available through the company...totally wonderful....call them and they will help you , unlike Harman.

I think the on/off on/off on/off is what took it out. Motor draws most current at start-up and the several starts in succession likely overloaded the circuit board. Triacs are for PCs, I prefer relays, but manufacturing costs likely prohibit them?

Once you get it figured out, could you post it here with year of stove or identifiers from the board? Have a couple of other stove brands where threads work through the circuitry - whitfield/breckwell. Need a steady hand with the solder iron! Good luck...

MadMax31 said:

I think the on/off on/off on/off is what took it out. Motor draws most current at start-up and the several starts in succession likely overloaded the circuit board. Triacs are for PCs, I prefer relays, but manufacturing costs likely prohibit them?

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It's the collapsing magnetic field in the motor that is the culprit. It generates a high Voltage spike. Triacs can tolerate an occasional spike, but rapid fire spikes are too much for them. It is always best if the motor doesn't have power when the power line is interrupted or switched off.
On a relay it would just pit the contacts, leading to a failure as well, but relays don't last long in the frequent on/off cycle applications.

edit
A transient surpressor like an MOV (metal oxide varistor) would probably help in situations where power line interruptions are common. The MOV would be placed across the motor winding as close to the motor as possible. Something with a 200V rating should be adequate.