Normal i think not

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etiger2007 said:
Yes the old steel box type. I do have a void between the steel box and the brick chimney, i tried filling that void with chunks on roxul, this didnt work very well. My "tubes , 3 of them" were only located in the smoke shelf , I had to remove the middle one to get my liner down the chimney. I read Mellows report on his block off plate and will mirror it this summer. As far as the insulation of the liner, I dont really see what difference that would make since its only there to warm the air so crosote is less likely to form, I have never had a crosote problem so far, does the insulation of the liner effect burn time and performance?
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Sounds exactly like my old one, except my 3 tubes were below the damper plate. And it was a major PITA cutting that center tube!

My next planned install is in an exterior chimney that's a bit short of the magic 15 foot. I'll be insulating that one because it'll need all the help it can with draft. Especially if I rob it of any supplemental heat by installing the lower blockoff plate.

I'm looking forward to trying one of the "new to me" pre-insulated SS liners. I just learned about it from another poster here on Hearth. Brings my Dad's voice to mind: "You kids don't know how easy you got it,... why in my day we had to glue and wrap our liners...".

Technology leaps sure are great! That's why I'm not worried about Global Warm...., I mean Climate Change. People smarter than me will surely invent what today I swear is impossible.
 
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mellow said:
If your draft is fine and your creosote is minimal I do not see the need for insulation as long as you had your existing chimney thoroughly checked before the liner was installed.
Insulation is good to have but not always required, especially since you have a tube reburner.
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That is true if the chimney was checked and all the necessary clearances were there but if they are seeing 60 degrees on the outside wall on a 28 degree day i would bet that on the inside (where it is more often than not in contact with combustibles) it was well over 100 and could be causing pyrolysis.
 
bholler said:
That is true if the chimney was checked and all the necessary clearances were there but if they are seeing 60 degrees on the outside wall on a 28 degree day i would bet that on the inside (where it is more often than not in contact with combustibles) it was well over 100 and could be causing pyrolysis.
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In contact with combustibles ? My chimney is terra cotta lined and brick!
 
Some people have found wood is right up against the terra cotta liner, even 40 year old chimneys and some have just now gotten to the point where they ignite.

Some of this just can't be picked up by an inspection which is why insulated liners are so highly recommended, if you didn't build it you never know what shortcuts were taken.

It is worth that extra to sleep better at night? It is not always required, but like bholler I do like to see them insulated.
 
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mellow said:
Some people have found wood is right up against the terra cotta liner, even 40 year old chimneys and some have just now gotten to the point where they ignite.

Some of this just can't be picked up by an inspection which is why insulated liners are so highly recommended, if you didn't build it you never know what shortcuts were taken.

It is worth that extra to sleep better at night? It is not always required, but like bholler I do like to see them insulated.
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You bring up an excellent point ! Seemed like just getting the six inch liner down was a pain in the a$$. Oh well got to insulate now! I won't jeopardize my family for it .
 
etiger2007 said:
In contact with combustibles ? My chimney is terra cotta lined and brick!
Click to expand...
yes i am fully aware that it is a clay lined masonry chimney and being that type of chimney exposed to the outside you need 1" of clearance from the outside of that masonry structure to any combustible materials. The reason for this is that enough heat is transferred through the masonry that over time the wood in contact can go through a process called pyrolysis where the kindling point is lowered to a point that if there is a chimney fire there could be enough temperature there to ignite that wood.
 
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