Stihl 026 - problem solved - spark arrestor

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jebatty

Minister of Fire
Jan 1, 2008
5,796
Northern MN
I've had this Stihl for 15 years but used little the last seven because it did not run well, poor starting, poor idle control, and power just wasn't there. Brought it in twice for service, but never much accomplished. Solved the problem today. Changed the sparkplug, no solution. Adjusted the carburetor, no solution. Then pulled the spark arrestor apart and the screen was essentially plugged. Cleaned the screen, reinstalled, and the old Stihl runs like new. It runs the way I remembered it ran, plenty of power on the 16" bar. And to think I was ready to put it up on Craigslist for $50!
 
That's scary that you took to a dealer 2x and they didn't discover that. Find a better dealer. And good for you for finding the simple fix.
 
I had all ends of my weed walker apart, before someone here suggested to look a the spark arestor. It was plugged. It may be a 2 cycle thing or is it required on engines run in the woods, but all my 2 cycles have them. The chain saw was clean, supposedly because of running high speed.
 
Something that I discovered the hard way. String trimmer wouldn't start, had ran fine 3-4 days before. After all the simple stuff, I pulled the muffler to look at piston, pulled it and it started??? Shut it down cleaned the mud from the start of a dirt dauber nest in the muffler outlet and it ran like a champ.
 
I've had this Stihl for 15 years but used little the last seven because it did not run well, poor starting, poor idle control, and power just wasn't there. Brought it in twice for service, but never much accomplished. Solved the problem today. Changed the sparkplug, no solution. Adjusted the carburetor, no solution. Then pulled the spark arrestor apart and the screen was essentially plugged. Cleaned the screen, reinstalled, and the old Stihl runs like new. It runs the way I remembered it ran, plenty of power on the 16" bar. And to think I was ready to put it up on Craigslist for $50!

I'd revisit the carb settings just to make sure you're not too lean (you said you adjusted the carb prior to finding the clogged screen). It would suck to lean seize it now.
 
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Thanks for that reminder - need to do that. After fixing the Stihl, I do want to seize it up.
 
Reset the L, H and LA carb settings. Runs well.
 
It sounds like you were running the saw a little on the rich side for the screen to clog up. But that isn't always a bad thing. Better than what was suggested earlier, a lean seize.

You should consider opening up the muffler hole at least double what it is now. And if you aren't using the saw in the woods, consider ditching the spark arrester screen. Or at the very least, install a screen with less restriction. I couldn't believe how much my 026 woke up after doing that. And of course readjust your carb.
 
I'll take another look at the muffler hole. This saw is used in the woods. Since it cleaned up well, and I bought the saw in 2002, it should last. BTW, the carb settings from fully closed, 1 full turn open for both L and H and then LA idle so chain doesn't turn on idle, is this correct?
 
I assure you, opening the exhaust hole up will only help your saw's life expectancy. It allows the exhaust gases to flow better, which means your saw will run cooler. The holes are small to meet EPA regulations. Open it up and realize your saw's potential. But be warned, it will be louder!

Your carb settings are right to start with, but you need to adjust from there based on elevation, temperature and humidity. I assume your saw is so old, it
doesn't have the plastic limiter caps cover the high/low adjuster screws? If you do have the caps, they need to be removed to adjust the saw properly.

Here is a great video on adjusting carbs:

Muffler mod: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/older-026-muffler-mod.82345/
 
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