Can I wipe warm glass when I reload?

FionaD said:

Guess I'm too impatient

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That's pretty impatient. LOL. Works for me because I do this first thing in the morning when the stove isn't very hot, and until I get some coffee in my system, I'm incompetent to do something as complicated (!) as building a decent fire anyway. I only get this haze maybe once a week anyway.

gyrfalcon said:

I only get this haze maybe once a week anyway.

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That's interesting. I get it every day. I think i get a lot of fly ash because the stove is a pretty enthusiastic burner.. the rampant secondaries throw ash from the top of the splits onto the window.

Joking aside, I mean I wouldn't leave the door open long enough for the glass to cool off if I want to wipe it between loads.

Yes ... at least I have been doing so since 2008 ... generally I only do it when the stove is warm rather than hot.

Guess I'm too impatient
I only get this haze maybe once a week anyway.
That's interesting. I get it every day.

I only get it on Valentine's Day. What am I doing wrong?

The best thing to use to wipe your door window is a sheet of wet newspaper. It works like magic to remove any haze or black residue.

I wipe mine in the morning after an all night burn, so the stove is cool. At times I will let the door open to cool the glass, and then completely wet a sheet of newspaper and the squeeze the rest out. Open it up and wipe away.

Works the best and the price is right.

Craig

DougA said:

I only get it on Valentine's Day. What am I doing wrong?

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Maybe you're not burning hot enough

bholler said:

Your method of opening the door to let the glass cool is ok as long as you keep an eye on it like you said but moisture on hot glass can absolutely break it new or old it doesn't matter it is the same glass unless you go back to the old mica windows

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Some manufacturer used to have the salesmen take a snowball and push it against a burning stoves glass to prove that the new "glass" won't break from thermal shock like the old stoves were pron to do. I can't remember who it was. It won't break! Spray away! It's much easier and safer to wait till the stove has cooled down some though.

bholler said:

i would not recomend using any moisture on hot glass at all you are just pushing your luck if you ask me

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Agreed. Sucks when the glass gets etched too..

BrotherBart said:

The original Corning Ware was made of pyroceram. They discontinued the line in 1999. I understand that a company in China now makes Pyrex brand and Corning Ware. With a different formulation. The new Pyrex is definitely subject to thermal shock.

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Yes, Consumer Reports confirmed this change a couple of years ago and warned against thermal shock on the new Pyrex and Corning Ware.

I have never heard a glass breaking unless a log got slammed in the door. The stove operator knows what really happened. I guess some just find it easier to blame it on thermal shock?
The glass becomes etched from not cleaning it, it has nothing to do with cleaning it while it's hot.

I wipe mine off first thing in the morning with a paper towel. I use hot water with on the paper towel and always leave the stove door open for 5 to 10 minutes maybe longer depending on how hot the stove is

webby3650 said:

I have never heard a glass breaking unless a log got slammed in the door. The stove operator knows what really happened. I guess some just find it easier to blame it on thermal shock?
The glass becomes etched from not cleaning it, it has nothing to do with cleaning it while it's hot.

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Thank you. I've been cleaning the haze off my stove glass for more than 6 years now with a wet paper towel and have had no etching problems.

Maybe if one tried to do this with actual ash on the door, which should just be brushed off, but not the haze.

I don't think the idea I've read suggested by some of cleaning off one of those really dark brown spots with ash from the firebox is a good idea, though. I did that once when I was still learning how to operate my stove and I could clearly hear and feel the abrasion from the ashes, and have never done it again. The few times over the years I've had a spot like that happen since then, I just did what my mother always called applying more "elbow grease" with the wet paper towel and it cleaned up. But most of the time, it just burns off after a few hours anyway.

lopiliberty said:

I wipe mine off first thing in the morning with a paper towel. I use hot water with on the paper towel and always leave the stove door open for 5 to 10 minutes maybe longer depending on how hot the stove is

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I find if I can touch the glass without hurting myself, it's cool enough to easily clean without smearing the haze all over it.

gyrfalcon said:

Thank you. I've been cleaning the haze off my stove glass for more than 6 years now with a wet paper towel and have had no etching problems.

Maybe if one tried to do this with actual ash on the door, which should just be brushed off, but not the haze.

I don't think the idea I've read suggested by some of cleaning off one of those really dark brown spots with ash from the firebox is a good idea, though. I did that once when I was still learning how to operate my stove and I could clearly hear and feel the abrasion from the ashes, and have never done it again. The few times over the years I've had a spot like that happen since then, I just did what my mother always called applying more "elbow grease" with the wet paper towel and it cleaned up. But most of the time, it just burns off after a few hours anyway.

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Using the ashes works very well, it won't hurt it at all. Etching is caused when the ash that's left on the glass for long periods of time actually melts into the ceramic glass. You can even use fine steel wool without scratching it. I don't ever find any need for anything but a damp rag. If that...

Very good to know, Webby. Thanks again. Hearing/feeling that scratching when I used the ashes for cleaning made my skin crawl, so I for one will continue to avoid it if I ever have a resistant brown spot again. But good to know about the steel wool in a pinch.

I started burning my new blaze King in sept. Have yet to clean the glass

Dieselhead said:

I started burning my new blaze King in sept. Have yet to clean the glass

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The glass on my BK is sorta like a crystal ball. You can look into it and tell what the temperature is outside.

I do it all the time - wet paper towel on warm to hot glass - works great.

tarzan said:

The glass on my BK is sorta like a crystal ball. You can look into it and tell what the temperature is outside.

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I hear Ya there guy, right now it must be cold because I can see through the glass

webby3650 said:

Using the ashes works very well, it won't hurt it at all. Etching is caused when the ash that's left on the glass for long periods of time actually melts into the ceramic glass. You can even use fine steel wool without scratching it. I don't ever find any need for anything but a damp rag. If that...

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Well I'll agree to disagree on this one.
I had cleaned with ash on my first insert, first glass, and it etched it. Replaced it.
I cleaned it a few times a season from then on, when it is was cold, and no etching issues. Same with the new insert.
Ash and any minerals in the water, especially hard water, may be the cause, but regardless, I'll go with what works for me. As others should do what works for them.

With my stove and the air wash system I dont have to do much with the glass except give it a wipe with a damp paper towel. However Ive read here (not this thread) that doing it to warm will cloud the glass over time. Any truth to this guys? You got me thinking about it hog when you brought up hard water.

Some say they have no issues. I experienced etching first hand. Very, very light, almost like a haze. Would look clear when wet while cleaning, and when it would dry, the etching showed(as a haze).
I don't use ash, I don't use windex, I don't clean while hot. I also use a white glass cleaner/polish from Rutland, very similar to glass cooktop cleaner. Might even be the same, dunno.
I don't get much on the glass other than a fine flyash here and there, and fogging from the splits outgassing on the glass due to loading North to South and sometimes having the splits close to the glass.
For me, it just ain't that big a deal, and not worth chancing etching the glass again. So I clean using the Rutland, and only when the glass is cool, or very slightly warm.
I am frugal with things, but my stove ain't one of them. A bottle of glass cleaner ain't that much.

I've never had any dark stains on my glass, just that slight fly-ash kind of haze.

...One year in with my stove and I have an area of very, very slight opaqueness on the very centre area of the stove window. It's only visible when I am right there, close by, looking at it. It's ringed with an area that is slightly coloured, in the same way as oil creates colour in water.. It's not a mark that can be removed in any way. It's now part of the glass. Any idea what that might be?

GeHmTS said:

Put it in low burn and then wipe with a damp cloth, never dripping wet!

Damp means that you have hand squeezed out any water from the towel.

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Totally agree and do it before a reload if needed.