XXV may have to go

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What is the distance between the vent top and the eaves? It looks close but its hard to tell.
 
What is the distance between the vent top and the eaves? It looks close but its hard to tell.

18 inches give or take
 
Could the exhaust escape into the overhead roof venting and you have a ceiling fan possibly sucking in the fumes from the attic somehow, even drawing the fumes into the roof vent?
 
Could the exhaust escape into the overhead roof venting and you have a ceiling fan possibly sucking in the fumes from the attic somehow, even drawing the fumes into the roof vent?
If fumes enter the attic space and some might, I doubt they stay there long as I have a roof vent which sucks out everything on a continual basis.
 

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What no snow ...?? ..What if you extended it so it's just past the eave?? As a test.. I'd say lower it but looks like one piece of vent pipe..
 
But perhaps the ceiling fan creates more suction than the natural drafting out the roof cap? Try shutting off the fan and check with your meter.
 
I think I will stick by my first post on the thread. More so after seeing the first picture. I would consider the ventilating sofits like windows. Termination is always to be away from structure. House envelopes can be tricky under weather extremes.
Good luck.
 
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I am no expert but that does seem close to the eve, maybe extend it as suggested, or go through it and above the roof.
 
Odd in the termination isn't directly away from the house and given the propensity for CO to rise.

I'd want to get that termination down several feet from the soffit, your attic vent system may qualify as either J or K on page 8 of the XXV manual depending on if it is powered or not.

ETA: No one here is an expert, whatever that is.
 
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Odd in the termination isn't directly away from the house and given the propensity for CO to rise.

I'd want to get that termination down several feet from the sofit, your attic vent system may qualify as either J or K on page 8 of the XXV manual depending on if it is powered or not.

1) I swivelled the termination that way to stop the wind to force itself into the pipe.

2) J or K? really? not D & E?
 
1) I swivelled the termination that way to stop the wind to force itself into the pipe.

2) J or K? really? not D & E?


It will depend upon what the code says up that way as to how that attic ventilation system is classified.

If you are trying to stop the wind from being forced into the pipe you need to find a true jet cap as it uses the wind to assist in removing the exhaust.

This is what I was talking about in my first post. Venting into the wind needs to be planned for.
 
My vote is for the air going into the eaves and back into the house. Put a CO detector in the attic and see if it goes off. Better yet fix it and see if you still have a CO problem.
 
I see it, you have a newer catalog, thanks.

Well I'm tired, my electric heaters on the main floor are printing money for Hydro One, at least they are very safe. Will see what the dealer says tomorrow.

I just want to help get the situation all good and safe.
 
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I just want to help get the situation all good and safe.
I'm greatful for everything dont get me wrong, the head hurts, too much thinking for one day;)

Will revisit the whole thing tomorrow, might swap the P61A vertical portion with the XXV, it is shorter.
 
Be safe CO is not something you want to mess with. Happy your leaving it off for now..
 
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CO coming in through your soffit vent is a real strong possibility.
 
I have a P61A that burns beautifully on the opposing wall, west side. The vent is clean as a whistle, as it was 2 weeks ago when I got the bad burn and gummed up the stove. No 6 blinks. All that is different from 2 weeks ago is the draft adjustment from -.75 to -.45, according to the Harman instructions the draft was way off.
I've got an XXV and I've thought about getting a meter and doing the draft test, but as I've not had any issues I've been holding off. I am vented differently that you. I'm curious when you did the draft test what you got for a high draft reading, was it within the -.50 to -.60 and then shift to -.35 to -.45 as indicated in the manual excerpt below?

I kind of would think a "cap" of sorts on the end of the vent to block direct wind would help such as in this link
http://static.hardwarestore.com/media/product/632148_front500.jpg
and would be fairly easy to fabricate and try.

xxv draft.JPG
 
Proper termination cap would be a start,strong NW wind when you done the readings?By the way the snow has drifted I would say blowing back into the flue.Reduce length of flue and vent away from soffit.
 
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I've got an XXV and I've thought about getting a meter and doing the draft test, but as I've not had any issues I've been holding off. I am vented differently that you. I'm curious when you did the draft test what you got for a high draft reading, was it within the -.50 to -.60 and then shift to -.35 to -.45 as indicated in the manual excerpt below?

I kind of would think a "cap" of sorts on the end of the vent to block direct wind would help such as in this link
http://static.hardwarestore.com/media/product/632148_front500.jpg
and would be fairly easy to fabricate and try.

View attachment 153757

No, it was -.75 as I explained in my OP. The book says normal is -.50 to -.60 during the first minute on high draft, not me, it was -.75 and did not change down on low. I brought it down to -.45 by adjusting the pot, which slowed down the exhaust motor.

The cap in the picture is not something I can get from Duravent, not crazy about the idea of modifying things.
 
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18 inches give or take

A 24” / 61 cm Above lawns, top of plants, wood or any other combustible materials.
A 12” / 30.5 cm Above non-combustible surface such as cement and gravel.
B 48” / 122 cm From beside/below any door or window that may be opened.
C 12” / 30.5 cm From above any door or window that may be opened.
D 24” / 61 cm To any adjacent building, fences and protruding parts of the structure.
E 24” / 61 cm Below any eaves or roof overhang.
F 12” / 30.5 cm To outside corner.
G 12” / 30.5 cm To inside corner, combustible wall (vertical & horizontal terminations).
H 36” / 91.5 cm To each side of center line extended above natural gas or propane meter/regulator
assembly or mechanical vent within a height of 4.5 m above the meter/
regulator assembly.
I 36” / 91.5 cm From any forced air intake of other appliance.
J 12” / 30.5 cm Clearance to non-mechanical air supply inlet to building or combustion air
inlet to any appliance.
K 24” / 61cm Clearance above roof line for vertical termination

These are specs from my manual which puts you a little close with the right wind direction. Our gas fireplace terminates at 15'' below the soffit and was not allowed to run until a non-porous section was installed 6 ft either side of center.

Would strongly recommend giving this a try.

.Reduce length of flue and vent away from soffit.






 
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