Fuse panel, What amperage?

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chimneylinerjames

Feeling the Heat
Nov 26, 2012
389
www.chimneylinerdepot.com
Buying a home and in the process of getting home insurance. They need to know what is the current amperage of the service. Can you tell by this picture? There are 2 boxes identical to this one in the home, one on the opposite side of the basement. Does this matter at all, possible increase the amperage?

I know it fuses and old, its my first project to get done in the home.
 

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My best guess would be a 60 amp service. It looks like there are 4 15 amp fuses there - 20 amp circuits were rare back then.
 
More info is needed. Are the two fuse boxes supplied by isolated sources or is it one source daisy chained to the two boxes? The mains (the pull sections) of the box will have fuses behind them. If done correctly, the size of fuse will dictate the amperage of the service. If each is isolated it will be box A plus box B.

Are you supplied by an outside power pole with a blade box or does this service come direct to the home?
 
Also, what are those heavy black cables on the left side? It looks like some "homeowner" work was done - no strain reliefs or chafing bushings apparent. It doesn't look too kosher to me, but I'm not a licensed electrician. In an old house I had, the second pull section was for the 220V stove, with smaller amperage fuses.
 
It looks like some "homeowner" work was done
Yes this was a homeowner special. I want to get this done asap after closing on the house.

Those heavier black wires on the left are leading to the other fuse panels. Actually there are 4 in total, that is why 3 are leaving the box, im assuming. 2 fuse panels are in the garage, but that's not what im worried about right now.

There is only one source of electric coming into the home, so all other boxes are linked to this main one.
 
Go to the source. That is ultimately the "service" provided.

It looks like you will have plenty of work ahead of you to make this "right".
 
If it's as cobbled up as I think, an insurance company may take a very dim view of this. You are right in wanting to correct this mess. It has the makings of a disaster!
 
Yes this was a homeowner special. I want to get this done asap after closing on the house.

Those heavier black wires on the left are leading to the other fuse panels. Actually there are 4 in total, that is why 3 are leaving the box, im assuming. 2 fuse panels are in the garage, but that's not what im worried about right now.

There is only one source of electric coming into the home, so all other boxes are linked to this main one.

How committed are the sellers? We had some questionable wiring in the house we looked at (backed up by the home inspector). Thus, we made that a contingency in our offer and they had that fixed before closing.
 
Good idea - this mess is a good negotiating point.
 
This has already been negotiated. Closing is in a few days. Just trying to get home insurance now and they want to know the amperage of current service. I know this is bad and it will be upgraded asap.
 
Well...a sub panel or two (or four_g), really is not indicative to the actual service. Again - you will need to go to the source for that. If that is a no-go then call up your service provider and ask them. They should have records that indicate what amperage of service you are wired for (and I believe that this is the number that your ins co is looking for).
 
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Got a picture of the meter? It looks like 6/3 romex feeding the panel, but this might be more apparent with the wiring to the meter. I agree with Jags, call the power company and see what they have on record.
 
Looks like a Main Range and 4 60 amp service. Post a picture of the meter socket and cable
 
Ask the utility.
The "service" amperage installed by the utility doesn't necessarily correspond to the amperage ratings of the fuse/breaker boxes installed in the house.
Our house has a 200 amp service from the utility. That's how much our transformer and lines to the house are designed to handle and what I suspect their breaker at the utility pole is rated for.
However, that 200 amp service feeds two 200 amp panels in our house.

Edit: what Jags said above. Somehow missed that before posting.
 
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When we bought our current house we couldn't even find an insurance company to insure us because there was a fuse panel. We had to upgrade to circuit breakers so we had 200 amp service installed.
 
Talk to some firemen. They'll tell you there are very few electrical fires in a house with fuses. Circuit breakers can and do fail.
 
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Talk to some firemen. They'll tell you there are very few electrical fires in a house with fuses. Circuit breakers can and do fail.
I agree. Even when the electrician came to install the new breaker panel and all new wiring he said I would be better off with the fuses and old wiring because the old stuff is made much better.
 
I'd guess that fuse boxes properly maintained and used may well be safer than a breaker box. Trouble is many aren't well maintained or properly used.
Its common to see the wrong fuses or even penny shunts installed in them.
 
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I agree. Even when the electrician came to install the new breaker panel and all new wiring he said I would be better off with the fuses and old wiring because the old stuff is made much better.
There is some truth to that matter, but sometimes that's not the case. It depends on how it was installed, maintained and it's service life. If the panel has seen frequent fuse blow outs and been warm over time it's bakelite can start breaking down, fuse sockets can also wear and start making poorer contact as can the knife contacts of the cartridge fuse holder. 4 fuse panels like this are more likely to have doubled up circuits on them too. They were not designed for modern appliance loads in the kitchen. The big killer in either breaker or fuse is usually loose connections. They can heat up fast.
 
There is some truth to that matter, but sometimes that's not the case. It depends on how it was installed, maintained and it's service life. If the panel has seen frequent fuse blow outs and been warm over time it's bakelite can start breaking down, fuse sockets can also wear and start making poorer contact as can the knife contacts of the cartridge fuse holder. 4 fuse panels like this are more likely to have doubled up circuits on them too. They were not designed for modern appliance loads in the kitchen. The big killer in either breaker or fuse is usually loose connections. They can heat up fast.
My personal opinion I still think it's better to upgrade to breakers. I now have more room for more circuits and don't have to worry much about overloading them.
 
Company I used to work at would hire a company to come in and take thermal images of the insides of every breaker box in the building, looking for hot spots. They would find some, and corrective action taken. That probably saved a bunch of downtime, and maybe even a fire or two. They also did most of the machinery in the plant - main breakers @ 440 VAC. We would occasionally lose a breaker in a machine due to heating of loose connections. Those breakers are expensive, and some of the foreign machines had a week or more delivery time on parts.
 
If this info is going on some insurance form & into your file, I think I would get an electrician in & ask him. 'The internet said so' might hurt you later if (god forbid) something happened and you actually needed the insurance.
 
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