saw choice 562xp vs. 372xp vs. 576xp

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Hey guys looking for advice and suggestions from members that have experience with the posted saws. I'm looking for a saw that will pull a 20 to 24" bar routine with extra left over for bigger bar options.
If your just cutting your own firewood a 562 would be perfect even with a 24" ba
Hey guys looking for advice and suggestions from members that have experience with the posted saws. I'm looking for a saw that will pull a 20 to 24" bar routine with extra left over for bigger bar options.

The 562 has the highest power to weight ratio ever recorded in a production saw over a pound less than a 372 and still has
4.8 hp only a half horse less than the 372.If your primary wood is over 20" then bring in a 72
 
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If your just cutting your own firewood a 562 would be perfect even with a 24" ba


The 562 has the highest power to weight ratio ever recorded in a production saw over a pound less than a 372 and still has
4.8 hp only a half horse less than the 372.If your primary wood is over 20" then bring in a 72

Where did you come up with that? Husky specs the 372 with a better p/w ratio than the 562.
 
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Where did you come up with that? Husky specs the 372 with a better p/w ratio than the 562.
Husky plays the numbers game all the time a 372 weighs just under 14 lbs at 5.3 hp a 562 weighs 12.57 lbs at 4.8 specs are a little off the 2013 specs are about as true as you can get hp for the 562 is now listed at 4.7 instead of 4.8 in 2013 Believe me this saw has gained hp since 2013 they have said at Dealer meetings since 2011 the 550 & 562 have the highest power to weight ratio of Any Husqvarna saws . Don't get me wrong the 372 is still one of my Favorites.
 
Tlandrum is top notch. Thats where my ported saw came from.

I own one of Terry's personal 372xp's. Not one he hopped up for someone else, but one he used everyday in his logging biz. This thing is No Slouch, Ive had comments like "Oh My God" & "Hory Shet" when people have seen this thing go through 23" Dia Oak logs with a 24" bar. It is Very Special. Terry is a very stand up guy and will do you right on new saws or modding old ones... I'm very pleased to say the least :)
 
The OP is looking to run a 20-24" bar with the option to go bigger. Of the saws he listed, the 372xp and 576xp fit that description best. While the 562xp has an awesome reputation, it is a 60cc saw and best suited for a 20" bar. Just because some guy on the interweb runs a 36" bar on one doesn't mean everyone else should.

372xp still gets my vote but I am biased since I own one.
 
Sorry guys been busy. My budget is for a new saw that will more than meet my needs at a good price! Still researching... I'm waiting for my local dealer to get both a 372 and 576 in stock. I can at least compare and get a feel for them side by side. Wish I could put them in some wood though- the true test.
 
tjcole50
I'm planning on muffler moding my MS290 for smaller work and getting the 576xpat for the bigger stuff. I've talked to a few of the recommended members and others over on arboristsite.com and they saying the 576xpat is the way to go out of the three Husky's. Still have not totally ruled out the 372 with the lighter weight, though I don't think the extra weight will bother me that much being 6'6 and "husky";)
 
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yeah, I plan when doing big jobs to let my dad use the 290 while working with me. I'll use it in the smaller wood while cutting myself.
 
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My vote is for the 372xp. I bought mine off CL my fleet is a 266,350,371xp, and the 372XP. Always pick up my 372 now! cut mainly off the log pile. the 371 is ported and polished and is faster than the 372, but is harder on fuel than the stock 372. I am less tired after cutting with the 372. Just my experience.
 
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If you aren't dead set on a Husky the Dolmar 7900 is a lotta saw for under $800. It has the same power and weight for $200 less.
 
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I ordered the 576xpat from Bailey's on a great deal. They price matched the lowest price deal I found and beat it by $40 with no sales tax or shipping cost.
 
Be sure to order a full chisel chain from them. Their Woodland Pro chains are rebranded Carlton chains, which make good quality professional chains. The 562 comes with A H46 chain which is a 'professional safety chain'. It cuts better than a home owner safety chain, but is not even remotely close to something like an Oregon LGX or any other sort of H47 chain. Technically the H46 is not considered a low kickback chain, but it is not even remotely close to the stuff professional logger use.

I did a test the other day to see just how 'good' or how 'bad' the H46 was while breaking in my new 562. With an H46, my 562 cut at almost the exact same rate my 455 Rancher did with an Oregon LGX chain.

I put on my H47 Woodland Pro (Oregon LGX equivalent), and cutting speed increased by approximately 35% I'm going to guess. Chains make a huge difference.

Either way, you're going to be happy with your purchase, provided you have the right chain for it. Enjoy!
 
Depends on the wood for chain. Most firewood type conditions would be better suited for semi-chisel.
 
I've had my logger friend tell me he uses semi-chisel for dirty wood and firewood, and full chisel for clean wood. I'm still learning all of the different chain codes, and run full chisel all the time regardless. Are semi chisel chains H46 chains, or H47's (or something else?)

I know there are a bunch of different types, like the H80 ripping chains, but I've no need for those, and they have significant kickback potential even in skilled hands. Most people from what I understand use these in portable mills.
 
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I don't know the Husky chain codes. I know that the Woodland Pro is all chisel though. I have Stihl and Oregon chisel and semi-chisel. For me personally chisel is fun to run on big clean wood. For smaller firewood scenarios I find that semi-chisel stays sharper longer. It will vary on wood type and conditions along with personal preference.
 
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What is the Oregon code for the chain you use? I love the LGX, but may be willing to try something else provided my cutting speed doesn't suffer.

I think the H codes are universal across all chains, but not 100% positive. They're listed on the actual drive tooth itself, where it would meet the sprocket. I know at least when I called Bailey's asking what the hell was stock on my 562 (because I could tell it was a safety chain just by looking at it) they asked me to look at the two and compare the numbers there.
 
I was told that the saw comes with some type of "safety" low-kickback chain. I ordered a Oregon full and semi chisel chain. Yes the semi chisel seems to cut and stay sharper longer when cutting firewood. Don't know anything about Carleton or Woodland Pro chains, but I have found that my MS290 likes the Oregon chains over the Stihl. They seem to be sharper and better quality new out of the box. They threw in a Oregon full chisel skip tooth at no cost due to a order error that delayed my order until the next morning.
 
What is the Oregon code for the chain you use? I love the LGX, but may be willing to try something else provided my cutting speed doesn't suffer.

I think the H codes are universal across all chains, but not 100% positive. They're listed on the actual drive tooth itself, where it would meet the sprocket. I know at least when I called Bailey's asking what the hell was stock on my 562 (because I could tell it was a safety chain just by looking at it) they asked me to look at the two and compare the numbers there.
Oregon semi chisel is DPX it seems to cut the same or faster than a LGX if that helps.
 
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Well, I got the saw a couple of days ago from Baileys. I have been cutting some smaller stuff until it is broken in. Can't wait to run it in some big wood!
 
I think to break it in that you are supposed to put it in big wood at WOT for the AT to program.
 
yeah I heard that about the autotune, but is that before or after the recommended 10 hr break-in? The manual only talks about the 10 hr break-in period, anybody have first hand knowledge (facts) about the AT?
 
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