Each stove will give you the clearance requirements for that stove so start shopping after you pick a stove you can start planning the install
New vs old. Please help
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In general you will find that a stove that has nothing between the firebox and the outside but 3/16" steel will be quite radiant and it will have large clearances. If the stove has a jacket on the outside or full side shields it will have closer clearances. The stone wall is decorative. The alcove installations that are using Durock on spacers or metal studs are trying to reduce clearances. This is only permissible if it says so in the manual. This reduction varies from stove to stove. Tell us your top choices and we can help from there.
I think I'm going to go with the Madison smart stove that you recommended BG. I also talked with my wife and we are going to take out the wall between the living room and dining room. I was wondering if I should go ahead and purchase the stove now or if they usually go on sale during the spring and summer.
Grisu
Minister of Fire
The Englander Madison was just released last fall and not stocked by the usual retailers. Thus, it is unlikely you will find it on sale unless Englander has some sale directly from the factory. Here you can get a factory second: http://www.amfmenergy.com/50masmheup18.html which may or may not be cheaper than special ordered through your local Englander retailer.
First step would be to download the stove manual and read over the specifications. You definitely want to measure twice and cut only once for the install. Note that all clearances listed will be minimums. There is no harm with exceeding minimums. Sketch up a plan first with dimensions for review. The Madison is model 15-SSW01, 50-SHSSW01 or 50-TRSSW01 (all the same, just different store brands). You can download the manual here: http://www.heatredefined.com/support/owners-manuals/
Are you talking about removing part of the room separating wall or the whole thing? I'm not a carpenter so I would get some carpentry advice if the intent is to remove the whole wall. It doesn't look like a bearing wall, but there may be other considerations.
Are you talking about removing part of the room separating wall or the whole thing? I'm not a carpenter so I would get some carpentry advice if the intent is to remove the whole wall. It doesn't look like a bearing wall, but there may be other considerations.
gyrfalcon
Minister of Fire
Yes I am talking about removing the whole wall. I will get a carpenters opinion before I do. Just so I can make sure I am reading this correctly, if I order this stove with side shields I will have to have 17.5" of clearance to combustibles on each side of the stove. And 7.5" of clearance to rear wall. The stove is 22.5" wide. At this moment my opening is only 42" wide from stud to stud. So I will need to widen my opening to a minimum of 57.5". Is this correct? I don't see anywhere in the manual how high the ceiling needs to be.
Yes, there are closer clearance options with other stoves. The Madison is a new stove and there are some details missing from the manual like double-wall connector clearances. I have a conversation into Englander asking if clearances can be reduced with NFPA wall shields. Stand by.
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I am rather impressed with the Madison Stove but I worry about the welded Steel box
and my concerns are reflected in their warranty statement. They talk about max 5 years
warranty covering the splitting of welded seams in the wood stove. Then they
assert it is the customers responsibility to pay cost of shipping both ways in the
event a repair is needed while under warranty. The shipping would likely be hundreds
of dollars. My only experience is with cast iron stoves and they sometimes seem to last
forever. Maybe others can help boost my confidence in the welded steel stoves.
and my concerns are reflected in their warranty statement. They talk about max 5 years
warranty covering the splitting of welded seams in the wood stove. Then they
assert it is the customers responsibility to pay cost of shipping both ways in the
event a repair is needed while under warranty. The shipping would likely be hundreds
of dollars. My only experience is with cast iron stoves and they sometimes seem to last
forever. Maybe others can help boost my confidence in the welded steel stoves.
Drop into the Fisher sub-forum in the Classics if you want to talk about 40 yr old steel stoves. If the stove is well built and maintained they will last a very long time. Cast iron stoves are great, but they will need rebuilding around 20 yrs or so to keep they in top condition. Likewise a steel stove will likely need some interior parts refitting, but the welds should stand up fine.
Oldman47
Minister of Fire
Two observations.
First is removing walls. Even if you are not dealing with a load bearing wall you might be surprised to find out everything that goes through a wall besides the obvious electrical circuits. I am in the process of building my own home and have things like plumbing going through a wall where you would say no way would any plumbing exist there. In my case the heating ducts blocked me using a good direct path so I went through an adjacent wall to get the supply pipes where they needed to go. I also have some vents running from the foundation drain tiles to the roof that go hidden in 3 different walls. Once you decide to remove a wall, take your time and check as well as you can for other obstacles before you start.
Second thing is clearances. Most stove manuals will tell you that the cabinet clearances are approximate but the connector pipe clearances are a must. That would be dimensions B and C in your diagram. Don't forget that single wall pipe minimum clearances and double wall minimum clearances always apply, even if the stove manufacturer does not specify them in their diagram.
First is removing walls. Even if you are not dealing with a load bearing wall you might be surprised to find out everything that goes through a wall besides the obvious electrical circuits. I am in the process of building my own home and have things like plumbing going through a wall where you would say no way would any plumbing exist there. In my case the heating ducts blocked me using a good direct path so I went through an adjacent wall to get the supply pipes where they needed to go. I also have some vents running from the foundation drain tiles to the roof that go hidden in 3 different walls. Once you decide to remove a wall, take your time and check as well as you can for other obstacles before you start.
Second thing is clearances. Most stove manuals will tell you that the cabinet clearances are approximate but the connector pipe clearances are a must. That would be dimensions B and C in your diagram. Don't forget that single wall pipe minimum clearances and double wall minimum clearances always apply, even if the stove manufacturer does not specify them in their diagram.
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