Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

Wisneaky said:

This is the response I received so far from SBI.

In order to have a thorough case file, we will require some additional information. A copy of the proof of purchase. The dimensions of your residence, a description of your chimney (length and diameter) and the ducting. We will also require photos of the cracks and the environment surrounding the furnace including the duct work.

Click to expand...

Looks like you guys may have to get your hula hoops out, unfortunately.

j7art2 said:

Here's a question/comment: Simply replacing the unit isn't good enough in my opinion. I know this sounds brash, but if I hire a company to come in and install my unit to the tune of $800+, and there is a failure, I don't have the knowledge, know how, ability, whatever. to swap a 530lb unit, and though all of the piping is there and ran correctly, for those incapable of doing so, are they plan on paying for a second install as well? After all, this failure is not my problem, and when I pay for professional install for a faulty unit, I'm certainly not going to pay for a second one.

Click to expand...

Good point. I don't see this being fun for anyone involved. But from the looks of some installs (mine included), at least it might not disturb much to replace the furnace. For mine, I'll disconnect the 8" outlets, pull the drives slips from the return air, take off the chimney connector, and then she's on the loose. At least that's a lot less effort than the initial install. Getting it up the stairs and onto the truck is my biggest challenge. Which leads to...

bpwelding2005 said:

oh believe me I'm not looking forward to having to change out the unit if that's the case i have a old farm house with a narrow stair case with a 90* turn half way down. ended up taking half the stairs out and sticking a 20ft I beam mounted on front of my CTL in threw a window across from the stairs. this way we could use a chain hoist and pick it up and lower it straight down from the first floor to the basement.

Click to expand...

You, sir, are a determined individual. Very nice. It's people like you that make this country great. If you can get a furnace in/out, then I should figure out a way too.

Especially since you only live 30 minutes away...

Smoke Signals said:

Or worse yet the replacement model does the same thing. I would hope the problem is addressed and fixed (if it has not been already) before they send out any replacements.

Click to expand...

These are going to be my biggest questions. As the previous post, ideally these problems shouldn't happen, but if they do my best option is to put as much effort to make things right as I expect SBI will. However, I don't plan to receive a replacement until it's obvious why the problem will not recur. We'll see.

well by the time we got around to installing the furnace the basement was full of wood so it had to go lol. Cant see paying for heating when my family owns 120ac of woods so the wood is free just gota put in the effort

I got a reply back from SBI. These crazy @ss people want me to return the furnace to Menards and they will ship a replacement there for me. I'm not pulling it out. They can send someone to my house to replace it.

wonder why they want it returned to menards? wouldn't think it would be worth there money to ship it all the way back to there factory.

3fordasho said:

Mcmaster #3871K52 thermocouple www.mcmaster.com

Omega engineering # CN418V-R1-R2 temp controller

This temp controller also has relayed alarm output which I have utilized the low temperature alarm to open the draft door if the flue temps drop below an adjustable setting - currently have mine set to trip at 245F flue temp or lower - what I use this for is to help reduce coal build up, and I also find it reduces the incidence of "backpuffs" that tend to make the house smell like smoke. I think it also reduces the possibility of creosote build up - before I installed it I had one "Cool" burn that liquid creosote dripped out the flue exit onto the filter box - nothing since I've installed the additional control.

I can mark up a tundra wiring diagram to show how I hooked things in - if you don't see it in a month or so send me a PM to remind me...

Click to expand...

I think that this would work:


Tundra Input1 --------|NO|-- (Out of the Controller)---| |-- (Your Thermostat)---To Tundra input 2


Tundra Input1 --------|NC|-- (Alarm of the Controller)--------------------------------To Tundra input 2
(Lot of editing trouble here with my wire symbols you can go with 1 wire to tundra inputs, was only easier to write...)

The controller OUT must be set to heat for the maximum of the temp flue you want, let say 450F (with an 100F degree hysteresys or some kind of programation control for it to not On and Off rapidly near the 450F value) The damper will be open as long as it does'nt reach 450F and the Tstat is demanding heat. If 450F is reached, it will close the damper until 350F (hysteresys) and open again

The controller Alarm must be set to 250F, it will open the damper until it reach 250F, regardless of the Tstat.

I think I will try this controller next winter, my wife doesn't care about creosote and all wood burning parameter... you know !

Looks very similar to what I have. I use a 625F set point for max flue temp with a 200F hysteresis setting so damper closes when it hits 625F and re-opens at 425F (assuming the thermostat or timer have closed the thermostat contacts on the back of the Tundra)

625F is just a number that I think is plenty safe for a flue temp but hot enough to allow good secondary action to get established.
The hysteresis is set at the max my temp control allows (up to 200F) to prevent to much opening/closing of the damper and undue wear on the damper motor.

Same deal with the low temp alarm, 245F is just a number I picked and set a fairly large hysteresis value for this one as well. (I think 100f so the alarm will go off at 345F)

I do have a thermostat connected but have it set to never call for heat (the propane furnace will kick on before) because I prefer to let the tundra operate in it's most efficient mode (damper closed) and let the secondaries do their job. The flue temp control does a wonderful job if flue temps get to hot or cool.

The only issue I've had is the Tundra damper door sometimes sticks partially open - need to pull that apart and see what is up mechanically with it.

David_QC said:

I think that this would work:


Tundra Input1 --------|NO|-- (Out of the Controller)---| |-- (Your Thermostat)---To Tundra input 2


Tundra Input1 --------|NC|-- (Alarm of the Controller)--------------------------------To Tundra input 2
(Lot of editing trouble here with my wire symbols you can go with 1 wire to tundra inputs, was only easier to write...)

The controller OUT must be set to heat for the maximum of the temp flue you want, let say 450F (with an 100F degree hysteresys or some kind of programation control for it to not On and Off rapidly near the 450F value) The damper will be open as long as it does'nt reach 450F and the Tstat is demanding heat. If 450F is reached, it will close the damper until 350F (hysteresys) and open again

The controller Alarm must be set to 250F, it will open the damper until it reach 250F, regardless of the Tstat.

I think I will try this controller next winter, my wife doesn't care about creosote and all wood burning parameter... you know !

Click to expand...

im not sure if this would work but thought when i set mine up i would leave my timer hooked directly to the back of my tundra but then hook my thermostat into the temp controller so it could close the damper even if the t-stat is calling for heat. I just feel like when my t stat calls for a good amount of heat i lose to much heat up the chimney. sure it would take longer for the temp in the house to rise but that would be fine with me to get more heat out of each load of wood. But maybe im looking at this all wrong, wouldn't be the first time or the last lol.

works for me! I have the timer, thermostat, and low temp alarm contacts all hooked in parallel to the terminals on the back of the tundra. Any one or combination of them can open the damper door.

I just set the thermostat to a low set point because with my 3400 square feet in Minnesota (too much for the tundra) it would call for heat half of the heating season. I just let my tundra cruise in secondary mode (damper closed) and fire up my Progress hybrid wood stove if I need more heat. (typically anything below 10F outside)

My heating load really calls for something like a max caddy or Kuuma 100, but the Tundra got me off the propane with a short lead time.
First fill on the 500g propane tank still at 60%

bpwelding2005 said:

im not sure if this would work but thought when i set mine up i would leave my timer hooked directly to the back of my tundra but then hook my thermostat into the temp controller so it could close the damper even if the t-stat is calling for heat. I just feel like when my t stat calls for a good amount of heat i lose to much heat up the chimney. sure it would take longer for the temp in the house to rise but that would be fine with me to get more heat out of each load of wood. But maybe im looking at this all wrong, wouldn't be the first time or the last lol.

Click to expand...

If SBI is providing replacement furnaces, I believe they have a right to make sure the old ones aren't being repurposed for a profit. If Menards is a trusted agent to ensure they are properly retired, then that's fine with me. If SBI can receive them and learn how to fix the problem, even better (and appropriate).

I knew a girl who asked me to bust up her Pampered Chef pizza stone. Hers had chipped, lifetime warranty, but the company asked her to bust up and mail back the old one, their policy to make sure the free replacement policy isn't abused.

Not saying any of us are content with cracked furnaces, but there is a reason.

As for pulling in/out of the basement and transporting to/from Menards, yep it would be a pain if that's what they do with mine. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

3fordasho said:

he only issue I've had is the Tundra damper door sometimes sticks partially open - need to pull that apart and see what is up mechanically with it.

Click to expand...

Mine did that too. The problem was under the cover on the front of the furnace. The rod that connects from the actuator at the rear, has a hook in the front that connects to the damper. The hook angle was too tight and would latch onto the damper and cinch it open a little. Easy fix, but your problem might be different.

You'll notice that front cover has two screws, into the 3/16" steel. I think between the steel thickness, and the high temps and heat cycles, one of the screwheads busted off instead of reversed out. Just a caution if that helps you remove them tenderly.

Good luck!

They did tell me the cracking issues have been taken care of with the newer furnaces. They didn't tell me what the issue was though.

Wisneaky said:

They did tell me the cracking issues have been taken care of with the newer furnaces. They didn't tell me what the issue was though.

Click to expand...

Hmmph. I believe you. I haven't made it that far yet in discussion with them. If they say they corrected the cracking issues, then I am looking forward to them answering my questions quite thoroughly as to the cause and solution that will mean a removal and 2nd installation will be the end of that for numerous years.

BrotherBart said:

It is in every stove warranty out there that you are on the hook for return transportation. Why I advise people that are buying a wood stove from a dealer to get the dealer to put in writing that they will do the swap if they want the check. Up front. My first Englander 30 had a big defect. They were going to ship one to a freight terminal here and me take the busted one with me to the terminal. I opted to just drive the 143 miles down to their plant to swap. Didn't want a freight damaged one and wanted to see the plant and meet them.

I have to wonder why SBI isn't contacting owners and having them check for cracks.

Click to expand...

SBI hasn't contacted any owners regarding past issues either like the ash pan door fix, updated front damper, relocated fan and high limit. Probably trying to save some money.

so its clear they new about the problem for some time if the issue has been addressed but would of been nice if they contacted all stoves in a certain ser # range to let people to keep a eye on them b4 there could be a serious malfunction. suppose though the less people that notice the cracks the less stoves they will have to replace and more money in there pockets.

Actually, I give them credit that they contacted me 4 weeks after initial purchase to check my snap disk because they had a bad batch. I checked, yep faulty, they sent a new one. I hadn't even registered the furnace yet and they tracked me down.

I've had good experiences with them so far and don't expect this to be different.

That said, I agree (especially based on their initiative on my snap disk) that they should have alerted people if they claim to know this is a problem.

brenndatomu said:

Boy...I don't quite know what to think about that... sissies Tundra was built about the same time as DoubleBs...obviously not in the "fixed" group. I don't suppose they would ever divulge the exact serial # range...I already put the Yukon in for her...now the Tundra...man, I'd hate to hafta do it all a third time! She does have outside basement access at least

Click to expand...

I've wondered for some time of they even know what's going on with things. When I contacted them about the ash pan fix they told me it didn't effect my serial number, but sent me a diagram and told me to double check. I checked and mine didn't have the ash pan fix installed so they sent me the kit. Also every single time I contact them they ask for the same info again. Its like really how many times do I need to send you my receipt.

all i can say is good thing for sites like this so at least some of us know whats going on and so they couldn't act like we must of done something wrong to our furnaces because they never heard of this problem b4 lol. You guys wouldn't believe how many times i seem to be that guys that has the only one that the manufacturer seen fail that way lol.