Pellet Stove Installation Questions; with video of installation area.

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BKSinAZ

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Jan 26, 2015
77
PineTop Arizona.
Wife and I are about to get a brand new Harman XXV and we had a couple of questions before the installer comes to the house to give his opinion. We don't want to be totally unarmed (knowledge wise) when he advises us. Roof is a metal.

Should I have the installer run the piping directly up, in the house, from the stove thru the ceiling and then thru the roof to the outside? Or, should I have the installer run the pipe directly outside, then up thru the roof? Any advantages in ether installation choice?

Also, what brand of piping and size is acceptable for them to use?

Yes, there will be an OAK kit installed..

Please see video of area of installation and exterior of home/roof below.

 
The video is "private". You would need to change the settings in order for it to be viewed.
 
I wouldn't put a hole in that nice metal roof.

Think about going horizontal out the wall via a 45.
A clean-out tee outside with a 4-5 foot vertical vent (what's your distance from that window).
Then paint the vent pipe the same wood color as the siding or matching dark green of the foundation.
Also put a few "snow slide guards" on the roof section over the vent, so a slide won't break the upper vent snorkel.
 
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I wouldn't put a hole in that nice metal roof.

Think about going horizontal out the wall via a 45.
A clean-out tee outside with a 4-5 foot vertical vent (what's your distance from that window).
Then paint the vent pipe the same wood color as the siding or matching dark green of the foundation.
Also put a few "snow slide guards" on the roof section over the vent, so a slide won't break the upper vent snorkel.


about 6-7 feet from corner to window. Not sure if I am following you, are you recommending multiple angle pipes? I was informed that the more amount of 90 degree and T pipes I have installed, the more difficult for exhaust to leave.
Hoping to have exhaust above roof line, so not to stain the wood, are you recommending not to be above roof line? Sorry, confused a bit.
 
about 6-7 feet from corner to window. Not sure if I am following you, are you recommending multiple angle pipes? I was informed that the more amount of 90 degree and T pipes I have installed, the more difficult for exhaust to leave.
Hoping to have exhaust above roof line, so not to stain the wood, are you recommending not to be above roof line? Sorry, confused a bit.
Yup to both. I assume you want the stove in the corner on the 45. The shortest venting is a stove adapter, 45, 2-3 foot pipe to a cap. Easy clean, no ladders, leaf blower access. Down side is no natural draft so you will get some smoke during power outages, and there will be some staining on side of house.
The addition of a Tee & 4-5 foot of riser vent will mitigate much of the inside smoke, and meet the minimum rise requirement of some manufacturers. But now your cleaning involves a ladder and you are still subject to some ash staining on the house side.

I try hard to minimize any roof penetrations, they always (eventually) leak. I've seen lots of examples where snow slides on metal roofs have stressed the penetration point. No visible damage, but discovered by the leak. Your penetration will be at the bottom of the slide, the worst spot. It is however the only place to minimize the potential ash staining.
 
I added a 12" adjustable pipe to the inside horizontal section of my duravent venting, to get the outside 5' vertical pipe section further away from the house in order to clear the roof overhang and to make the nearby window clearance specs, and that got the termination vent far enough from my clapboard siding that I don't get any ash staining. http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/PV_Retail_W.pdf

The square horizontal termination cap and the 90 degree elbow help with that as well, while staying just within the EVL recommendations - I have a 45 degree elbow from the stove adapter to the inside horizontal section.

I had to make a support bracket modification with a 2nd bracket and a couple of sheet metal screws for the mid - pipe vertical section support.

After 8 burn seasons the venting is overdue for a fresh rattle can spray paint job this spring.

7134.jpg 7133.jpg
 
I added a 12" adjustable pipe to the inside horizontal section of my duravent venting, to get the outside 5' vertical pipe section further away from the house in order to clear the roof overhang and to make the nearby window clearance specs, and that got the termination vent far enough from my clapboard siding that I don't get any ash staining. http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/PV_Retail_W.pdf

The square horizontal termination cap and the 90 degree elbow help with that as well, while staying just within the EVL recommendations - I have a 45 degree elbow from the stove adapter to the inside horizontal section.

I had to make a support bracket modification with a 2nd bracket and a couple of sheet metal screws for the mid - pipe vertical section support.

After 8 burn seasons the venting is overdue for a fresh rattle can spray paint job this spring.

View attachment 155690 View attachment 155691


Could I see these pictures from a little further away from the home so I can get a better idea of how it looks? thanks
 
Yup to both. I assume you want the stove in the corner on the 45. The shortest venting is a stove adapter, 45, 2-3 foot pipe to a cap. Easy clean, no ladders, leaf blower access. Down side is no natural draft so you will get some smoke during power outages, and there will be some staining on side of house.
The addition of a Tee & 4-5 foot of riser vent will mitigate much of the inside smoke, and meet the minimum rise requirement of some manufacturers. But now your cleaning involves a ladder and you are still subject to some ash staining on the house side.

I try hard to minimize any roof penetrations, they always (eventually) leak. I've seen lots of examples where snow slides on metal roofs have stressed the penetration point. No visible damage, but discovered by the leak. Your penetration will be at the bottom of the slide, the worst spot. It is however the only place to minimize the potential ash staining.


Yes, the stove will be a 45 corner degree install.
 
Could I see these pictures from a little further away from the home so I can get a better idea of how it looks? thanks

Sure. Mine is on the back side of our farmhouse, so less visual aesthetic issues than perhaps your front side install location. Anytime you stick a pipe out of a wall there are going to be 'curb appeal' aesthetic issues, in some people's minds more than others.

That said, I'll trade what some would perceive as a loss in 'curb appeal' aesthetics for saving 1200 gallons of #2 fuel oil expenses per winter in a heartbeat.

7135.jpg 7136.jpg


.
 
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The shortest venting is a stove adapter, 45, 2-3 foot pipe to a cap

Similar to our venting set-up w/o the 45. The type of cap we used was a "turbo" cap - conical shape shield around the end of the cap. Easy to clean;) We have the OAK and info from another thread has NFPA calling for all installations to have them. You can get Selkirk DT with OAK built-in or BioVent has OAK intake integrated in first length of horizontal. There are also thimbles with OAK integrated. Lots of options to minimize outdoor aesthetics. Strategically placed evergreen that is appropriately distant from the vent can shield from street view ... ornamental juniper.
images

I have seen small wisps of smoke from the stove on outage - similar to snuffing a candle. Definitely less than the smoke from candles on the most recent birthday cake_g Figure it may be coming from the intake ports for the airwash system on my stove.
 
I would install a right out the wall, with no porch side, and install an O.A.K . That way you do not have to bring the pipe up along the wall at all. You should only need 4 pieces of 3" pipe(stove adapter, 6" pipe, 45 elbow, and a 24" pipe then cap it. You should see this install in the install manual. I have installed this same way on houses that are to nice looking to have this pipe running up the wall. Keep us informed.
 
I would install a right out the wall, with no porch side, and install an O.A.K . That way you do not have to bring the pipe up along the wall at all. You should only need 4 pieces of 3" pipe(stove adapter, 6" pipe, 45 elbow, and a 24" pipe then cap it. You should see this install in the install manual. I have installed this same way on houses that are to nice looking to have this pipe running up the wall. Keep us informed.

Harman does sell a wall thimble with an O.A.K built into it. One Hole!!!
 
I would install a right out the wall, with no porch side, and install an O.A.K . That way you do not have to bring the pipe up along the wall at all. You should only need 4 pieces of 3" pipe(stove adapter, 6" pipe, 45 elbow, and a 24" pipe then cap it. You should see this install in the install manual. I have installed this same way on houses that are to nice looking to have this pipe running up the wall. Keep us informed.

Are you speaking of image 4.1 in these instructions? http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/XXV_I.pdf
You would not recommend going thru roof over hang on non porch side? To me, it would be the cleanest looking install and would not stain side of home with soot, sh and smoke. Side of home is wood.

Installer came by today and recommended going thru over hang. He also recommended galvanized pipe non painted. I wanted it painted black, but he suggested not painting it due to the paint wearing off and scratches that would make the pipe look worst over time. What say you about overhang and paint?
 
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We have a steel roof and it sounds like a freight train when it unloads (depends on the pitch I suppose). I would not want a stack on the lower end of that roof once the snow starts moving. What amounts of snow do you get? What is your prevailing wind? What side are you putting exhaust on? What elevation?

http://www.hearthnhome.com/downloads/installmanuals/xxv.pdf Page 15; Figure 18 & 19

Your reference would be install 4.8 & 4.9 with the addition of the 45 to compensate for angled in the corner of the room...
 
Are you speaking of image 4.1 in these instructions? http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/XXV_I.pdf
You would not recommend going thru roof over hang on non porch side? To me, it would be the cleanest looking install and would not stain side of home with soot, sh and smoke. Side of home is wood.

Installer came by today and recommended going thru over hang. He also recommended galvanized pipe non painted. I wanted it painted black, but he suggested not painting it due to the paint wearing off and scratches that would make the pipe look worst over time. What say you about overhang and paint?
Just saying you would only require a pipe sticking out of home instead of up the outside wall and still up to code.
 
That would be Install 4.8. That is your best in your case. Remember one hole, Harman does sell that wall thimble. I push it because it looks a hell of a lot better than any other.
 
I have a log home and I went through the roof because through the wall was difficult for stove location.

If you are going through the roof as per the installer, then I would tell him to go straight up using the top vent option. Use Selkirk pipe which has the OAK and exhaust all in the same pipe. Use Selkirk pellet pipe all the way up and through the roof then wrap it with stove pipe on the interior, makes for an excellent looking install. The other benefit of this install is your vent stack is further up the roof line.

You'll get a better interior look and the stack is away from the eve.
 
Here is a picture of the stove with top vent option. The black stove pipe is decorative, it is just encasing the pellet pipe.

uploadfromtaptalk1426477502580.jpg
 
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