Purchased a Used Stove- Now what? 6041 USSC

Moved your thread to The Pellet Mill.
You best first attack will be with a shop vac and a air compressor and download the owners manual.
Welcome

If you haven't seen it run the first thing I'd consider doing is put a few pellets in it, plug it in and turn it on to see what it does.
A general inspection will usually reveal what it needs but a good deep cleaning and new gaskets/door seals will usually make a stove work like new again, getting the dust bunnies out of the motors and a little oil seems to help a lot.
To clean any used stove we put it in the shop, hook up a leaf blower to the exhaust (google leaf blower trick) and hit it with an air compressor. +Caution+ unhook the pressure switch first.
Welcome to the wonderful world of bio fuel burning.

If you are going to replace the combustion blower , whatever you do don't buy it from Ussc , they want 296.00 for it. Chances are you may live near a Pellet stove dealer , I went to my local Dealer , sells Breckwell , Hudson river and Englander so the Englander Combustion blower is identical and I only paid 149.00 with tax. Same RPM , Same brand motor (fasco) .

Yes maybe check out Englander (England stove works ) , not sure what there website is. But i believe they have it directly through them for 138.00 . Comes with new gaskets to.

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mcobb said:

you can buy a USSC part thru Englander?

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Lot of stoves share common major components, Fasco fans have been used since day one in pellets stoves, Gleason Avery gearmotor assemblies have common mounting for the auger feeds. Room fans, there are several makers of the same spec mounting but may have better bearings.

@SidecarFlip

He is the man when it comes to this model.

Since your not going to install the stove for awhile you could bring in the motor to a electric motor shop and possibly have it rebuilt -new bushings bearings installed and be way ahead $$$.

Im using the englander combustion blower now. Same bolt pattern. Same brand motor as i mentioned above. Im using a gleason avery agitator motor to , better motor and only 68.00 shipped .

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A word of caution thats been discussed on here in other threads before and that is....

Though the motor and flange attachement may be the same, what is more important is the expeller fan diamerer, the width and the number of blades.

Pellet stoves, in general, are very sensative to combustion air flow and changing CA fans in the interest of saving a couple bucks, may ot may not be a good idea. That 68 dollar unit might throw everything out of wack.... and it might not but, IMO, why take the chance in the first place.

SidecarFlip , that 68.00 dollar motor has nothing to do with the combustion , that 68.00 motor is the agitator motor , same rotation , same rpm , (doesn't matter what way that agitator motor turns anyway really , ccw or cw) . If you all want to go buy a 177.00 dollar agitator motor , knock yourself out, Factory agitator motor is Garbage, brass bushing for a bearing is a joke. Ill stick to my 68.00 motor that will outlast the oem one by long shot. The combustion motor is what is same as Englanders for 138.00 vs 296.00 , again its your stove, buy what you want , no way in H*LL I'm spending that much on a motor , that's as much a as I paid for the whole stove almost. If you really want to know my opinion of the stove , Ya I have the 6039 but pretty much same thing but ITS JUNK. Why they would design a stove double wall Is beyond me, LESS SURFACE AREA HEATED ON STOVE =LESS HEAT OUTPUT. My brother in laws Harman heat output vs this Hunk makes this thing embarrassing. Mine will be up forsale in few weeks.

Looks like two of us were thinking the $68 was for a exhaust fan motor.

Bioburner re read post # 13 and it clearly says AGITATOR motor 68.00. And the Englander combustion motor is pretty close to the same as Ussc . Same diameter fan , same number of blades (12 ) . Width of blades im not sure about without taking the blower off .

Bills6039 said:

SidecarFlip , that 68.00 dollar motor has nothing to do with the combustion , that 68.00 motor is the agitator motor , same rotation , same rpm , (doesn't matter what way that agitator motor turns anyway really , ccw or cw) . If you all want to go buy a 177.00 dollar agitator motor , knock yourself out, Factory agitator motor is Garbage, brass bushing for a bearing is a joke. Ill stick to my 68.00 motor that will outlast the oem one by long shot. The combustion motor is what is same as Englanders for 138.00 vs 296.00 , again its your stove, buy what you want , no way in H*LL I'm spending that much on a motor , that's as much a as I paid for the whole stove almost. If you really want to know my opinion of the stove , Ya I have the 6039 but pretty much same thing but ITS JUNK. Why they would design a stove double wall Is beyond me, LESS SURFACE AREA HEATED ON STOVE =LESS HEAT OUTPUT. My brother in laws Harman heat output vs this Hunk makes this thing embarrassing. Mine will be up forsale in few weeks.

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I have no issue with heat output on mine, never have. I prefer a double walled HX. Keeps the outer surfaces at a reasonable temperature so you don'r get burned. If thats the case, why HX it.

A harman is 3 thimes the cost btw.

Bills6039 said:

Bioburner re read post # 13 and it clearly says AGITATOR motor 68.00. And the Englander combustion motor is pretty close to the same as Ussc . Same diameter fan , same number of blades (12 ) . Width of blades im not sure about without taking the blower off .

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I did before I posted my last post.

Double wall does keep it cooler which is nice if you have kids and do but they are old enough to know not to touch something like this to begin with. Not saying this thing wont heat my house cause it does but Im very well insulated and I have run this thing on Hr 5 just to keep it 73-75 in here and at that setting I'm going through a hopper in about 15 hours. Add that up , costing me almost $10.00 a day to run this thing. Cheaper to run electric . Run this thing wide open at Hr9 and it wounldnt be long till you were broke . Would be about 16.00 per day . Crazy and Im even burning corn pellet mix to help with cost of pellets. I realize the Harman is 3x's the cost but after seeing how my brother inlaws heats , it would be well worth it . However im selling this 6039 and getting Alaska stoker stove , made right her in pa about a hour from my house. 5-85000 btu output and cost about what this 6039 cost new. Not even half the maintenance , less fill ups , 2 times the heat .

Arti said:

If you haven't seen it run the first thing I'd consider doing is put a few pellets in it, plug it in and turn it on to see what it does.
A general inspection will usually reveal what it needs but a good deep cleaning and new gaskets/door seals will usually make a stove work like new again, getting the dust bunnies out of the motors and a little oil seems to help a lot.
To clean any used stove we put it in the shop, hook up a leaf blower to the exhaust (google leaf blower trick) and hit it with an air compressor. +Caution+ unhook the pressure switch first.
Welcome to the wonderful world of bio fuel burning.

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By 'unhook the pressure switch', he means pull the rubber hose off of it. It's actually called a vacuum switch around here although, of course, it IS a pressure switch (just BELOW atmospheric)..

Bills6039 said:

Double wall does keep it cooler which is nice if you have kids and do but they are old enough to know not to touch something like this to begin with. Not saying this thing wont heat my house cause it does but Im very well insulated and I have run this thing on Hr 5 just to keep it 73-75 in here and at that setting I'm going through a hopper in about 15 hours. Add that up , costing me almost $10.00 a day to run this thing. Cheaper to run electric . Run this thing wide open at Hr9 and it wounldnt be long till you were broke . Would be about 16.00 per day . Crazy and Im even burning corn pellet mix to help with cost of pellets. I realize the Harman is 3x's the cost but after seeing how my brother inlaws heats , it would be well worth it . However im selling this 6039 and getting Alaska stoker stove , made right her in pa about a hour from my house. 5-85000 btu output and cost about what this 6039 cost new. Not even half the maintenance , less fill ups , 2 times the heat .

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OR you should have bought a coal stoker for the same price, paid $170 a ton for rice coal, and gotten 60% more heat out of every ton plus gotten 90,000 btu's if you needed it. But that was your choice. It's great to see someone in Pa. with enough sense to move over to the Dark Side.

mcobb said:

I did see a video of it running last night. The guy says he has never had a problem out of it in the 5 years he has owned it.( other than the occasional weird noise from blower exhaust fan) I will look into that trick. Thanks

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Was this guy a used car salesman?
I greatly encourage you to spend all the time possible searching the forum's knowledge base to learn all about the stove and see what other problems people have had so you're a step ahead next fall when you need it. Get the manual from the website and trace the wiring to find all the snap disks, motors, fuses, and switches. Learn NOW how to keep it TRULY clean. Practice taking it apart and putting it back together. Run it for an extended period of time in the garage to work out the bugs and see what you REALLY got.
Doing all of this will make this a 'great deal' and not the usual nightmare from most 'great deals'.

Bills6039: ]Double wall does keep it cooler which is nice if you have kids and do but they are old enough to know not to touch something like this to begin with. Not saying this thing wont heat my house cause it does but Im very well insulated and I have run this thing on Hr 5 just to keep it 73-75 in here and at that setting I'm going through a hopper in about 15 hours.

Anyone that keeps their home at 73-75 has either a humidity issue (none or little ambient RH) or should be living in the tropics. 68-70 is more than adequate with the correct Relative Humidity level. If a unit is rated at 48Kbtu output, it don't matter if it's a single wall, double wall or triple wall HX, that has no bearing on output as tested and rated....

Add that up , costing me almost $10.00 a day to run this thing. Cheaper to run electric . Run this thing wide open at Hr9 and it wounldnt be long till you were broke . Would be about 16.00 per day . Crazy and Im even burning corn pellet mix to help with cost of pellets.

I've owned a 39-41 for over a decade now and you are certainly either doing something wrong or didn't bother to read the manual concerning operating instructioins. Ours heats our 2 story farmhouse just fine, it may not be 70+ in every room but they are a space heater, not a central furnace, something that people for some reason conveniently forget. $10.00/day equals 310 bucks a month, for electric, thats cheap......

Harman is 3x's the cost but after seeing how my brother inlaws heats , it would be well worth it . However im selling this 6039 and getting Alaska stoker stove , made right her in pa about a hour from my house. 5-85000 btu output and cost about what this 6039 cost new. Not even half the maintenance , less fill ups , 2 times the heat.

Really, I know that too. After you get it you can wander over to nepacrossroads.com and expound there. I'm sure they will find your rants amusing. Rated output of any unit is what it is, 45Kbtu or 85Kbtu, it matters not.

Myself, I prefer a Keystoker or a Reading over an Alaska Stoker but thats personal preference.

Coming from a wood burner ( in my living room ) dampner 3/4 shut most of time and averaging 85 in the house may explain why we like it 72-75. #1 the wood burner was way to much for this house but was given to me but due to my physical condition , 29 yrs old and artificial hip and L5 S1 fused in my back , i could no longer do all the required work involved with a wood burner so thats why i bought the 6039 (350.00) thinking it would be the way to go however it is costing to much to run it so thats why i made the decision to sell the 6039 and put the money towards something that will more efficiently heat my house and still be automatic . I agree with you sidecarflip about btu rating , it doesn't matter double , triple but one thing i do know is single wall there would be more surface area to put off heat , on this 6039 heat moreless just comes out front , Harman has the surface area , set on top of the harman , you Can't , i can set on my 6039 even on setting 4 but like you said were talking 2's the cost for a harman. One thing i dont understand is if btu is btu regardless of how many wall , a harman of the same btu rating as the 6039 ,,, the harman would tare the 6039 up as far as heat output goes. Im not here to argue I came here to this site to simply learn about the 6039 , learned more from reading the forums then the manual will ever teach a person. Manual is next to worthless but again thats my opinion. After comparing the stokers they all seem to be made well but the Alaska definitely is a better looking stove and much better price.

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