blaze king princess vs englander 30nc

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begreen said:
Running wide open puts a lot more heat up the flue. It's a wasteful way to heat and hard on the flue piping. The magnet most likely lost its stick due to very high heat exposure. I would have the flue system checked out. It's lifespan may be compromised by running continually at too high temps.
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do you think something could be wrong with my double wall insulated stainless steel chimney pipe if nothing is wrong with my single wall black pipe that comes out of the stove?
That would get the most abuse right?
 
daleeper said:
Keep working with that Englander, it is known to be able to crank out lots of heat. Learn to use it properly, with good firewood. I think you are being guided on using it properly, follow these folks advice. If you are unable to get enough heat/reduce the need to reload, you need to consider something with a bigger firebox. I doubt there are stoves with significantly bigger fireboxes than the nc-30 that do not require an 8" chimney. There are furnaces that will hold more wood that use a 6" chimney. Installing a furnace should at least keep that heat pump from kicking on, and distribute that heat throughout the house.

You are fighting a tough battle with those garage doors in your stove room/workspace. Is the stove in the garage, and are you using it as a garage? If not, then think about closing up those garage doors, insulate the basement walls, install more efficient double doors if you need the larger door openings. If you are still using the space as a garage, can you partition it off with an insulated wall, with the stove and stairway on the insulated side? This is a war you are going to fight with any stove/furnace, you need to be planning your attack.
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Thx for the info, the basement has one side exposed and i use it for a garage/workshop. i know the garage door are a fight, but i use it to much to get rid of.
i think ill research the merands tundra furnace. For that price is might be worth it. Or take all the advice and get the nc dialed in good.
 
Could do both. Keep the nc30 and learn its ins and outs for when the power goes out. Get an IR scanner for your stove top ( and a magnet if you want) i find them a bit more accurate . And get your pipe checked for damage from over heating.
Lots of good advice being given . Take it and you'll enjoy a good heating experience with that stove. A pellet stove does sound pretty good tho
 
amh said:
do you think something could be wrong with my double wall insulated stainless steel chimney pipe if nothing is wrong with my single wall black pipe that comes out of the stove?
That would get the most abuse right?
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It is probably fine but i think you should have it scanned to be sure. I really think that your money would be much better spent at this point to either get better doors or seal the ones you have much better. No matter what stove you have if those doors are really leaky your stove will be fighting to keep up.
 
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amh said:
Thx for the info, the basement has one side exposed and i use it for a garage/workshop. i know the garage door are a fight, but i use it to much to get rid of.
i think ill research the merands tundra furnace. For that price is might be worth it. Or take all the advice and get the nc dialed in good.
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That tundra firebox is not much bigger than your stove, you will not gain much there other than getting better heat circulation.
 
You can't compare the firebox size of a furnace and a stove to try and determine relative output. The furnace uses a huge blower and often a heat exchanger to make more heat from the same size firebox. Not unlike a turbo or supercharger on an engine the furnace gets more output for a given displacement. You will go through more fuel when you desire high output but that's a good thing when you need more heat.

A ducted furnace in the basement of a huge house with freaking roll up doors is pure genius. They almost all use your 6" flue.
 
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bholler said:
Usually when they wont stick any more it is because they have been over heated what temps was it running at?
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Dont toss just put it on the stovetop where it belongs. That 650 degeee stovetop is where your heat comes from ,not so much the 300 deg flue pipe,i put mine on the stepup on the 30 which is where he hottest temp usually occur. Anything over 700 degrees can make a magnet lose its stick.
 
Most magnetic thermometers meant to be used on single-wall pipe have a screw hole in the middle. That's there to keep the thermometer in place when the pipe hits 700F.
 
Joful said:
That's there to keep the thermometer in place when the pipe hits 700F.
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Yes but your pipe should not be hitting 700 very often that is really hot. And from what i have been told it doesnt fall off till 850 or 900. I know mine hasnt fallen off and mine has been at 7 or over a handfull of times atleast
 
bholler said:
Yes but your pipe should not be hitting 700 very often that is really hot. And from what i have been told it doesnt fall off till 850 or 900. I know mine hasnt fallen off and mine has been at 7 or over a handfull of times atleast
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After loading, I let my pipe ramp up to 500 - 550F, engage the cat, and then watch it fall down to cruising around 250 - 300F. About once per month, I miss engaging the cat at 550F, and will find the pipe hitting 700F. I'm sure I've never had it to 800F, though... that's scary hot.
 
Joful said:
After loading, I let my pipe ramp up to 500 - 550F, engage the cat, and then watch it fall down to cruising around 250 - 300F. About once per month, I miss engaging the cat at 550F, and will find the pipe hitting 700F. I'm sure I've never had it to 800F, though... that's scary hot.
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Oh i know 700 happens like i said i have had mine there occasionally but it should not be a normal thing
 
Joful - I cant wait for you to the BK
 
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amh said:
Good thought, but the wife wont let me bring wood upstairs cause its to messy. And my basement it also my workshop, so im down there more than anywhere
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Read the entire thread, and reread it.

It's messy so it can't come upstairs???? Are you freaking kidding me????

SMH big time.
 
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
Read the entire thread, and reread it.

It's messy so it can't come upstairs???? Are you freaking kidding me????

SMH big time.
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My father in law works with a guy that makes his wife brush off the splits before she puts them into the cart and brings them indoors to load the stove. True story. :oops:
 
Dieselhead said:
My father in law works with a guy that makes his wife brush off the splits before she puts them into the cart and brings them indoors to load the stove. True story. :oops:
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That's bull chit.
 
I concur. Serious ocd going on in that household.
 
My wife and I are both pretty OCD clean, but bringing wood into the house has never been much of a problem. It's in a big canvas satchel, which gets set on the hearth, and wood loaded directly into the stove from there. When I'm done loading, I pick up the satchel, and dump the remaining debris into the top-load door of the stove. Done. Clean.
 
Nothing a broom and dust pan can't take care of or vacuum for that matter. I have wood rack in the stove room and sweep up when I fill it up
 
Nothing wrong with a stove in the basement if it can heat the house from there. Mine is in a 3/4 finished basement. Heats the house just fine from there. If it were on the 1st floor my basement would be cold. If it CANT heat the house from there well thats another story.
 
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