Just Purchased My First Saw
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I tell ya. I pretty much use the hydro splitter for everything anymore but bought a X27 just because of the chatter here. One day I had a huge red oak stump cut laying in the woods that I didn't even want my worn out old ass to have to hump into the trailer. So I said what the heck. I took that lil axe down there and it flat amazed me splitting that big hunk into little hunks.
I walked away mumbling "Where he hell were you when I was hand splitting six cord a year?".
I walked away mumbling "Where he hell were you when I was hand splitting six cord a year?".
drz1050
Minister of Fire
Lucky you have neighbors like that! I wish I had something like that within walking distance.. Glad you got the saw figured out!
The X27 is a fine axe, I prefer a sharp 6 lb axe eye maul though, 8 lb'er for the funky or big stuff. Do yourself a favor and don't get one of those shitass fiberglass handled Home Depot China ones.. for new, Council Tool makes good stuff, made in North Carolina.. old mauls are good stuff though. Ebay, craigslist maybe, antique shops.. old Collins, Council, True Temper, and Weco mauls are sweet.
For 6 lb, go axe eye. 8 lb, either axe or sledge eye is fine.
The X27 is a fine axe, I prefer a sharp 6 lb axe eye maul though, 8 lb'er for the funky or big stuff. Do yourself a favor and don't get one of those shitass fiberglass handled Home Depot China ones.. for new, Council Tool makes good stuff, made in North Carolina.. old mauls are good stuff though. Ebay, craigslist maybe, antique shops.. old Collins, Council, True Temper, and Weco mauls are sweet.
For 6 lb, go axe eye. 8 lb, either axe or sledge eye is fine.
drz1050
Minister of Fire
I've seen a couple x27s with broken handles.. yeah, Fiskars might send you a new one, but in the meantime you're out of luck. I can re-handle one of mine in ~1 hr or so.
The alloy they use is also more brittle than what's on a vintage maul.
I own a X27 and like it for what it is, but rarely reach for it when I'm heading out to the pile.
The alloy they use is also more brittle than what's on a vintage maul.
I own a X27 and like it for what it is, but rarely reach for it when I'm heading out to the pile.
Seanm
Minister of Fire
Yeah her name is Tundra. We picked her up 7 years ago from a sled dog company. Very good with the kids, good jumper, good digger, mouser, typical husky. I see yours is bi eyed as well... same eye. Good looking dog you have there, almost looks like they could be related. Garlic on the left if youre wondering and larch on pallets and top covered in the back.
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Seanm
Minister of Fire
Nice. With that kind of land you have room for wood sheds, top covered stacks on pallets etc. What a lot of people here do is dry it outside until its ready for the next burning season and then move it into a wood shed. A few replys for me to read up on since I was last on so that may have been covered. I built Tundra a kennel that needed a 6 ft high chain link that she quickly learned to jump over with one hop so we had to put a chicken wire roof on top that was strong enough for snow. Spied her jumping it once and she cleared it like we walk over a speed bumpI have 5 acres of dense woods and about 1 acre of clearing/mowing behind the house. TONS of room for a shed. My neighbor has 7 acres and my other has 2 and they already begged me to take all the wood I need.
I feel like Jaws....."I'm gonna need a bigger boat (shed)" hehe
Oldman47
Minister of Fire
There are tons of opinions about the ideal splitting maul. Some folks like the "monster maul" others like a more traditional maul with about an 8 pound head and then folks like me like the new Fiskars X27 maul. Unless you are going to be splitting tons of wood as a business, most folks find manual splitting with a maul works just fine.Great stuff! Thanks! Sounds like Labonville full chaps are a slam dunk with y'all here. Now it just comes down to a helmet with ear muffs and a face screen. I like the looks of that combo.
I can see where gloves and glasses would be disposable. I'm not super close to a Lowes so Amazon Prime and I are good friends. I can certainly make a trip though. Was thinking about getting an ax too and try to split some logs the old fashioned way until I save up for a log splitter.
So.......ax suggestions? Splitting mauls? Sledge Hammers?
I should rename this thread "Help Josh Get Started" haha.
For felling, try checking out the series put together as training for BC Fallers and the Husqvarna series of information. Both of them will give you a good head start as a new tree faller. The BC Faller series seems to only use a Humbolt style notch because of their focus on lumber. The Husky videos focus much more on an open face notch because they are convinced it is best. Any style notch will work so it is really up to you which one you are comfortable using. I would watch both sets of videos to get a feel for what all is involved in felling and bucking.
Wow. She's gorgeous! Love huskies but wow are they a handful, eh?
We got Kineye up in Michigan from Karnovanda Kennels. Judy, the owner, is great. Kineye's dad was the #1 ranked husky in the nation Micah for a couple of years and won best in breed at the Westminster Dog Show. Apparently Kineye wasn't deemed show worthy so she was willing to sell her to me. Worked out well for me!
Here's a couple funny memes for ya.
And this one.
Nice. With that kind of land you have room for wood sheds, top covered stacks on pallets etc. What a lot of people here do is dry it outside until its ready for the next burning season and then move it into a wood shed. A few replys for me to read up on since I was last on so that may have been covered. I built Tundra a kennel that needed a 6 ft high chain link that she quickly learned to jump over with one hop so we had to put a chicken wire roof on top that was strong enough for snow. Spied her jumping it once and she cleared it like we walk over a speed bump
You're gonna love/appreciate that meme I just posted above. :D
Getting ready to order a Fiskars x27 and x7 hatchet. What do y'all recommend to keep them sharp with? Fiskars makes an ax sharpener for $10. Any good? Thanks.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Not everyone loves the X27. How tall and heavy are you? Many prefer the X25. I remember one rant from Bigg_Redd on this last year, in particular.
I'm 5'10" about 170 lbs. Read some Amazon reviews and some guys were disappointed with the x25 feeling it was too small. But the x27 was better. I imagine this does come down to how big you are and personal preference. If y'all think the x25 would be easier for me to swing, I'll go with that.
Babaganoosh
Minister of Fire
I'll throw it out there that I hate earmuff type ear protection. They hurt when they press down on your safety glasses, they are bulky, they get sweaty, they snag on stuff.
I prefer plugs. Foam ones are ok if you insert them correctly. However I use custom plugs. They are so comfortable you don't even realize they are in your ears.
Radians makes some that you can mold yourself. They work very well. I have a pair of those too. Can't reccomend them enough
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003A28OW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1426619906&sr=1-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
I prefer plugs. Foam ones are ok if you insert them correctly. However I use custom plugs. They are so comfortable you don't even realize they are in your ears.
Radians makes some that you can mold yourself. They work very well. I have a pair of those too. Can't reccomend them enough
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003A28OW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1426619906&sr=1-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
TreePointer
Minister of Fire
Go with the X27. Longer handle means lower likelihood of putting the axe head in your foot than the X25.
Oldman47
Minister of Fire
Most of us have used a sledge or a cutting type axe with a 36+/- handle so the X27 will feel more natural than the X25 with its 30 inch handle. That does not mean the X25 is not a good maul but you will need to get used to that handle length.
Oldman47
Minister of Fire
Both series are on You Tube.
BC Faller videos:
http://www2.worksafebc.com/Publications/Multimedia/Videos.asp?ReportID=36885
Husqvarna:
Note: the Husky videos are not organized in one spot like the BC Faller videos but you can easily link to them from this one. Just look at the stuff that shows up after you have viewed the one I linked and you will find many others.
WarmGuy
Minister of Fire
Back to the original problem--I went through the same thing when I bought mine. I called the shop and he told me a procedure to use that seemed so dangerous that I'm not even going to relate it here.
Here's what I've concluded:
It's way too easy to miss the "burp" with the full choke. So I just do one pull with full choke, maybe one with half choke, then no choke.
Concerning a helmet: I always wear mine. I figure that if there's a kickback, I'd rather have the chain hit the helmet than my nose. It's probably true that the helmet will be kicked off my head, but I figure it's still worth it. Maybe I should look in to helmets with chin straps.
Here's what I've concluded:
It's way too easy to miss the "burp" with the full choke. So I just do one pull with full choke, maybe one with half choke, then no choke.
Concerning a helmet: I always wear mine. I figure that if there's a kickback, I'd rather have the chain hit the helmet than my nose. It's probably true that the helmet will be kicked off my head, but I figure it's still worth it. Maybe I should look in to helmets with chin straps.
Isaiah53
Member
Glad to hear your saw is running. In addition to the PPE I would recommend you get a file kit for sharpening your chain before you get into heavy cutting (if you have not already). Stihl makes a nice kit that most dealers stock. It has to be matched to your chain.
Next to flooding saws, I think the most common mistake we novices commit is not sharpening our chains frequently enough. I have come to learn that I need to sharpen mine every other tank of gas. I can get longer with a new chain, but touch the ground with the bar and its almost immediate. If you find yourself having to press on the saw when cutting, or see its producing a lot of dust rather than wood chips, it needs sharpening. You do not want to wait until the bar is smoking. A I recall, there is a pretty good video on the Stihl website about how to file.
Next to flooding saws, I think the most common mistake we novices commit is not sharpening our chains frequently enough. I have come to learn that I need to sharpen mine every other tank of gas. I can get longer with a new chain, but touch the ground with the bar and its almost immediate. If you find yourself having to press on the saw when cutting, or see its producing a lot of dust rather than wood chips, it needs sharpening. You do not want to wait until the bar is smoking. A I recall, there is a pretty good video on the Stihl website about how to file.
drz1050
Minister of Fire
Is this really possible? I've had a couple kickbacks large enough for my arm to hit the chain brake.. It works.
I have a hard time imagining a kick back large enough to come anywhere close to your head.. After all, you should still be holding onto it.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Head and neck injuries make up 10% of all chainsaw contact injuries, and if you're contacting your head or neck with a chainsaw, I guess we could suppose most of those are due to kickback. I do know leg injuries are 5x - 10x more common than head or neck injuries, depending whose statistics you use.
Here's some info from an NIH study:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15027558 said:
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