awesome score, awesome neighbor!

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I'm sure that most people do not. But do most people use chaps and other PPE? Do most people educate themselves on the proper way to cut trees before doing it? Probably not

Most (if not all) professional fallers use wedges. As described in the videos, a wedge keeps the tree from setting back on the saw (which would pinch the bar and really screw things up), keeps wind from bringing the tree backwards, and a wedge is used to force the tree to fall in the direction you intend.

For firewood cutting the wedge can be used to keep the bar from being pinched while bucking. Set a wedge as soon as you're deep enough into the cut to prevent the wood from pinching the base.

I'm just a firewood cutter but there are several things I ALWAYS take with me when cutting. Saws, PPE, axe, tool-kit, fuel/oil, wedges. Every time I leave home to cut wood I have at least a couple wedges.

I have a couple wedges that I'll keep with me when I'm cutting in the future.
Where does one acquire wedges as shown on the video? Also, I was watching a husky felling video and the guy was doing what I'll call and over cut then he would saw out the middle, do a back cut, wedge... Then drop it. Do you ever fell trees in this way?
 
I have a couple wedges that I'll keep with me when I'm cutting in the future.
Where does one acquire wedges as shown on the video?
I got some at my local saw shop and then picked a few up at an auction a few years back. I paid $1 for a box of junk that had 4 or 5 wedges sitting on top; I guess that right there tells you how many people have/use wedges for felling (not too many).

Also, I was watching a husky felling video and the guy was doing what I'll call and over cut then he would saw out the middle, do a back cut, wedge... Then drop it. Do you ever fell trees in this way?
I'm not sure what you're talking about, could you maybe point me to the video?

FWIW, I'm not an expert faller, I'm simply passing along my experiences and what I've learned over the years of watching falling videos and listening to the men that are much wiser than myself.
 
Around here, you can find a small plastic wedge at just about any store that sells chainsaws (Lowes, Walmart, TSC, etc). Longer wedges are available at local chainsaw dealers and online.

Basic felling is a notch on one side, a back cut on the other side, and holding wood between them.

"Saw out the middle" sounds like you are describing bore cutting (aka plunge cutting).
 
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[quote="CountryBoy19, post: 1923760, member: 14291"

FWIW, I'm not an expert faller, I'm simply passing along my experiences and what I've learned over the years of watching falling videos and listening to the men that are much wiser than myself.[/quote]
 
Yes it's a bore cut.... how does this cut compare to the undercut and rear straight cut?

Cutting starts around the 15 minute mark.
 
Yes it's a bore cut.... how does this cut compare to the undercut and rear straight cut?

Cutting starts around the 15 minute mark.
Thanks for the video! Yes, that is a bore-cut. The advantage is that you can get your hinge (holding wood) cut just right before you get to the point that the tree is unstable. The disadvantage is that it takes longer, is harder to wedge a leaner in the direction you want it to go, and bore-cutting increases the risk of kickback to a new saw operator that doesn't understand kickback and how it happens.

Most experienced fallers don't do a bore-cut in normal conditions because they don't need the extra time to get the hinge right. They can run the back-cut right up to the precise point that it needs to be as the tree starts to fall and then make their egress from the area. A new, or inexperienced faller may need that extra time to make sure the hinge is right before completing the fall.
 
Thanks for the video! Yes, that is a bore-cut. The advantage is that you can get your hinge (holding wood) cut just right before you get to the point that the tree is unstable. The disadvantage is that it takes longer, is harder to wedge a leaner in the direction you want it to go, and bore-cutting increases the risk of kickback to a new saw operator that doesn't understand kickback and how it happens.
...l.

TRUE...While a bore cut can be VERY useful, it is better left for a more "confident" and experienced cutter. And it is only necessary on certain trees, for particular reasons/needs.
Be careful out there.
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Black cherry is great wood, Im surprised your neighbor let you have it. Now Im curious if you will clean up the brush for him? Just wondering. What are your feelings on it?.......

....Split the wood there and get it out however you can...and clean up the bark and wood residue.:)

I agree....I would hope that the OP will indeed clean up the brush also.
If a tree were cut on his own land he would be cleaning up anyway, so I would imagine he will clean up on his neighbor's yard too.....right OP?? ;):)
 
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General rule: always clean up on another person's property.

We do make an exception on my parents' farm. If the tree is in a wooded area, we leave the cuttings where they are. The tree would drop and naturally decay there if we didn't process it for firewood.
 
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You are seeing the difference between freshly cut black cherry and black cherry rounds that have been exposed to the atmosphere for a while. It doesn't take long.
That's pretty cool (the way the colors flip).
 
Once someone showed me how to use felling wedges I haven't dropped a tree without them since, unless its under maybe 6-8" diameter. AS a new feller, focus on makign perfect hinge cuts. After you have made a five or six really good hinges that are pretty much the same thickness end to end across the stump - then take on a leaner with a triangular hinge.

If you are going to do this, you need to think about your gear. I am not saying you need to go drop $70k on a full size diesel crew cab truck and I am not trying to be an a-hole, but if you are going to burn wood you either need to go get it, or pay to have it delivered.

Can any of your current vehicles support a class II trailer hitch? Class two would 350# tongue weight, 3500# total weight for trailer and load. That's close enough to a full cord of green wood to be a long day of hard work. Plenty of Class II trailers in the parking lots of Lowes and Home Depot local to me. Go look at those, and then start watching craigslist.

I do encourage you to ask the land owner what he wants you to do with the slash cut - and do that. On page one it looks to me like there _might_ (I have never cut up a cherry tree) still be some perfectly good stove wood in your slash pile. This is another place a reasonable trailer might be handy, taking slash to the dump. I bet there are fees involved in dumping slash that far back east, its a cost of free wood for you if the landowner wants you to do it.

Curious about the stove you are feeding, I can not elucidate what length rounds you are cutting from the pics. I carry a stick with measured paint marks on it and mark up my logs with chalk during bucking, but that doesn't mean you did it wrong.

Best of luck, I wish I had a neighbor like that.
 
Once someone showed me how to use felling wedges I haven't dropped a tree without them since, unless its under maybe 6-8" diameter. AS a new feller, focus on makign perfect hinge cuts. After you have made a five or six really good hinges that are pretty much the same thickness end to end across the stump - then take on a leaner with a triangular hinge.

If you are going to do this, you need to think about your gear. I am not saying you need to go drop $70k on a full size diesel crew cab truck and I am not trying to be an a-hole, but if you are going to burn wood you either need to go get it, or pay to have it delivered.

Can any of your current vehicles support a class II trailer hitch? Class two would 350# tongue weight, 3500# total weight for trailer and load. That's close enough to a full cord of green wood to be a long day of hard work. Plenty of Class II trailers in the parking lots of Lowes and Home Depot local to me. Go look at those, and then start watching craigslist.

I do encourage you to ask the land owner what he wants you to do with the slash cut - and do that. On page one it looks to me like there _might_ (I have never cut up a cherry tree) still be some perfectly good stove wood in your slash pile. This is another place a reasonable trailer might be handy, taking slash to the dump. I bet there are fees involved in dumping slash that far back east, its a cost of free wood for you if the landowner wants you to do it.

Curious about the stove you are feeding, I can not elucidate what length rounds you are cutting from the pics. I carry a stick with measured paint marks on it and mark up my logs with chalk during bucking, but that doesn't mean you did it wrong.

Best of luck, I wish I had a neighbor like that.


Unfortunately, my current vehicles are not exactly trailer hauling beasts. In several months our Rav will be paid off and I plan to start the search for a decent wood hauling pick-up. Until then, I'll be scrounging out of the back of my SUV.

I have a PE Super 27, that can take up to 18inch splits. A few of the cuts I eyeballed, but the majority I simply used the bar to measure. I still have some clean up to do as far at gathering up all that is burnable. From what I've read, the thinner limb wood from cherry trees isn't the best and my neighbor even said so, but i'll get all I can and use in the fire-pit if not the stove. I've been cutting in the brief windows of time that I have to work with..... family, 2nd shift work schedule...etc.

I will absolutely do what-ever my neighbor wants in regards to clean up. I'm not afraid to work and complete a job. I honestly think he just wants to put it all on a pile and burn it one day. I don't think he really cares about the brush but I'll bring it up next time I see him. As I stated in previous posts.... his primary concern was removing some trees to allow more sunlight on that side of his yard.

Yesterday his wife told me to take the truck and haul all the wood over to my place... his son was there and he was eager to give me a hand as well. They are all just very friendly and go out of their way to help. We feel very blessed to have such amazing neighbors!
 
Well awesome. I would encourage you to price taking slash to your local dump ASAP so you know what you are signing up for next time the phone rings.

My wife wants a AWD Rav4 for her next car. Late model inline 4 cylinder motor toyota listed max is about 1500# for trailer and cargo, if you have a V6 total is 3500#. About. Check you manual. Can your SUV take a hitch receiver?

I don't know every small truck out there, but in general Ranger/Tacoma sized trucks are listed for 800-1000# of cargo just in the bed. Again, check the owners manual, but if you fill the thing up in the AM and split it all at home and get it stacked in the PM you have put in a good hard day. My 1999 Ranger had a class II hitch receiver bolted to the frame, pretty common in my neck of the woods. Trailer balls bolted directly to the rear bumper are hardly ever class II, check the manual on those.

My 2015 Tacoma has a class 4 hitch on it (12,000 pounds). If I had special ordered my Tacoma I would have specd a class II hitch, but I got the 4. Class IV realistically requires a trailer brake controller in the cab and some kind of braking system, usually electric, on the trailer. I am new at this class IV trailer stuff, but nice class IV trailers have dual axles and cost $5k for a cheap one. Hitches are downward compatible, if you buy a truck with a class IV hitch you can hook up a class II trailer and follow the class II guidelines without having to do all the class IV stuff.

I know from experience you can wear yourself out easy scrounging wood with a Ranger sized truck, no trailer, and a 40 hour per week regular job.

If I had to pick for scrounging, between a 4x4 truck that could take a receiver someday and a class II ball someday and a class II trailer someday, or a two wheel drive truck with a rcvr and a ball and a class II trailer today, both for the same money, I would take the 4x4 every time. You got an awesome neighbor, and you want to keep him happy just for the reference, but there is more.

The real hook up is going to be a builder. When a builder buys acreage, he wants it cleared yesterday. If you can show up every day at 11AM and cut for a couple hours and load up your truck and drive away, and come back on the weekend with a trailer and cut even more you are going to be invited back and he will tell his builder friends.

That kind of rep will snowball, even if two cords a week is all you can pull. If you are dependable and show up when you say you are going to show up, it doesn't matter if you show up with a 1999 Ranger and a $600 trailer from Tractor supply, you will get called before the guy with the 2015 F-350 and the $20k trailer who shows up three days late. If you are helping builders clear lots you are going need four wheel drive, the roads are where you put them ;-)

In my area builders often "invite" three or four people to come take the trees, its kinda first come first served; remember the builder wants it gone and doesn't care who takes it. Generally the other invitees are just as cool as you are, you take what you can cut, they take what they can cut, everybody wins. If you know all the cutters it might be OK to buck and buck and buck during the week and come back with a trailer on Saturday. But if you buck and load everyday you don't have to worry about strangers loading up the rounds you bucked while you aren't there watching.

I would advise you to keep your neighbor happy, ask him to tell his friends. Also, small sticks of cherry, no matter how bad they are, burn cheaper than propane. I'd go down to about 1" diameter myself, but I burn about 8 cords per year.
 
NB: Cherry is really really good on chicken and pretty good on pork. Beef not so much. Ass/u/me/ing you have a charcoal grill you can throw a few chunks of wood on.
 
Well awesome. I would encourage you to price taking slash to your local dump ASAP so you know what you are signing up for next time the phone rings.

My wife wants a AWD Rav4 for her next car. Late model inline 4 cylinder motor toyota listed max is about 1500# for trailer and cargo, if you have a V6 total is 3500#. About. Check you manual. Can your SUV take a hitch receiver?

I don't know every small truck out there, but in general Ranger/Tacoma sized trucks are listed for 800-1000# of cargo just in the bed. Again, check the owners manual, but if you fill the thing up in the AM and split it all at home and get it stacked in the PM you have put in a good hard day. My 1999 Ranger had a class II hitch receiver bolted to the frame, pretty common in my neck of the woods. Trailer balls bolted directly to the rear bumper are hardly ever class II, check the manual on those.

I would advise you to keep your neighbor happy, ask him to tell his friends. Also, small sticks of cherry, no matter how bad they are, burn cheaper than propane. I'd go down to about 1" diameter myself, but I burn about 8 cords per year.
My S-10 is even worse. It is rated for 1000 pounds total. That includes me sitting in the driver's seat. I have no idea why it is set up to install a hitch ball on the rear bumper but it is. Needless to say I have run it overloaded more than once.
 
Thats a good neighbor, if it was me i'd be getting the wife to make cookies or something to bring over and show your appreciation.

I snowblow my neighbors driveway's when needed, one of them promises cookies, yet to deliver, another will shows up with homemade jam and other goodies, guess who's gets done first.
Sounds like you have a situation most would envy.
 
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Do most people use wedges?
I don't know about most people, but I always use them and think of them as essential safety equipment for felling. And this is from a guy who doesn't wear chaps.
I've nicked my thigh twice in 35+ years I've been handling a chainsaw, neither time did it happen while I was actually cutting. In fact I've never come close to cutting my thigh while cutting. Both instances happened while I saw standing with the running saw in my hand relaxing and contemplating my next move. I simply relaxed too much and let the saw down and rest on my thigh. (very stupid really, because it's so easy to avoid).
However, many times, despite my best intentions, calculating and alertness I've had trees lean the wrong way while cutting and pinch the saw, or fall contrary to the way I tried to get them to fall. Even with wedges it is not always possible to get the tree to go the way you want it, but they sure help, and you are 100 times less likely to get your saw pinched.
 
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I hope cherry smells better burning than it does splitting! It is pretty wood to look at... But I don't so much care for the smell. Now red oak... I could sniff all day!

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Ive heard this on hearth before so I was excited to smell it. I harvested a small amount of choke cherry two summers ago and thought it didnt smell very nice at all. Must be that "real" cherry has a much nicer scent.
 
Ive heard this on hearth before so I was excited to smell it. I harvested a small amount of choke cherry two summers ago and thought it didnt smell very nice at all. Must be that "real" cherry has a much nicer scent.

What is choke cherry?
 
He and I make BBQ and
Is it any good? I havent heard of anyone doing that around here.

I haven't tried the wine, but his jellies were okay. Both of the jellies were kinda thin, so maybe more time reducing on the stove would have made it more flavorful. I had chokecherry jam from a local orchard store that was good.

Black cherry trees grow like weeds here, and I'm tempted to make a jam every year. I haven't done it yet because I don't want to pick all those small berries, and they are more pit than berry, lol!
 
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