Santa Fe trap door problem

Did you scrape the door with anything? I find that carbon buildup can make it catch. This normally only happens when burning on low though. I use a stiff puddy knife.

I agree with making sure the pot floor is clean of any carbon buildup. It makes it easier if you loosen that nut enough to where the stop that hits the back of the pot clears it, and then the pot floor will swing out to the front of the stove for easier cleaning. When making adjustments to the nut for pot floor clearance, make sure there is no more then a dimes width of opening between the pot floor and the back of the pot. kap

I spritz some non-stick cooking spray into the burn pot, which helps allot to dissolve the built-up carbon deposits. I've heard other folks use high temp silicone spray, but I've found the generic non-stick cooking spray works as well and is allot cheaper. The cooking spray will also help lubricate the pot door hinge mechanism. Your pellet quality will also determine how much carbon and ash impurities get deposited.

If I am around the stove when it cycles off I pull the burn pot clean-out knob after the last pellet embers have gone out or been blown out into the firebox, but while the burn pot is still hot. If you catch it before the pot cools down the carbon doesn't have the time to 'cold weld' onto the bottom of the burn pot plate. Most of the time my burn pot door opens easily with out even needing to scrape.

If it doesn't open, a spritz of cooking spray will help break the carbon loose. I've never had a cooking spray 'flash-over' from contact with the hot burn pot, but I always wear insulated gloves just in case. The cooking spray together with some light scraping works well when the stove is cold and the carbon has 'cold welded'.

Remember to regularly clean out your small and large burn pot air holes to maximize your draft / burn efficiency. I periodically spritz some cooking spray into the burn pot air holes as well to help keep them carbon and ash free.

Geezer said:

Thanks Guys, I'm diligent with cleaning, I believe there is something worn or not aligned right. I have a few bags left to burn this season, at the end of the season cleaning I will disassemble and inspect. The bolt side of the trap door seems to stay the same, the other side seems to droop a little but not all the time. And the adjustment seems to loosen up too much. I'm guessing worn bolt, but we'll see.

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As others have asked, do you scrape the door clean with a putty knife??

After I cleaned the pot and bottom I would rub graphite powder in the pot and bottom to keep the stuff from trying to cling to the parts. But was also burning some corn and that seems to produce more and harder clinkers.

Geezer said:

Jack, not with a putty knife, with a long handled windshield sticker scraper, until there is no resistance and smooth.

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ok, even better i guess.

The bolt is shouldered, should be tight.

Geezer said:

Thanks Guys, I'm diligent with cleaning, I believe there is something worn or not aligned right. I have a few bags left to burn this season, at the end of the season cleaning I will disassemble and inspect. The bolt side of the trap door seems to stay the same, the other side seems to droop a little but not all the time. And the adjustment seems to loosen up too much. I'm guessing worn bolt, but we'll see.

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The bolt has a strange fit. If you don't seat it right, it could throw the pot floor off. kap

slls said:

The bolt is shouldered, should be tight.

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While a correctly sized shoulder bolt would solve the problem, neither of my stoves have shoulder bolts. You can tighten them til it's SOLID! I've adjusted mine one time in 4 years and they never moved. A second jam nut would hold them if they DO come loose.
As for scraping, the best thing I found was a cheap Harbor Freight wood chisel pushed straight down and twisted. Works great and very sturdy. No problems with broken razor blades or flimsy putty knives.