Woodstock Fireview for Leaky House

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ambull01

ambull01

Feeling the Heat
Nov 11, 2014
397
Eastern Shore, MD
I reserved an IS but I may cancel it if the Fireview will suffice. The Fireview is selling for $500 and I love the looks of the stove. I think it's rear exit as well. Anyway, I know the manufacturer stated BTU/heating area stats are basically useless so I want to get some opinions/feedback from ya'll.

Will a Fireview be able to heat a leaky Victorian style house (2,400-ish sq ft) in MD's mild climate? This past winter we had a few below 0 degree days but that's really not common. It's usually about 20-30s during the coldest winter months (January and February).

You guys think the IS is enough of an upgrade it warrants three times the price?
 
For only $500 I'd give it a try and find out. I can heat my 1880's limestone foundation 1600sq ft two story with a Fireview but I have to push it when temps drop below 10F or so and that's with updated windows/doors and insulation. I had a second stove in an added on part of the house, but even with Minnesota temps usually one or the other would suffice for 90% of the heating season.
Just don't do like I did and design your hearth / flue set up so it only fits a fireview - design so you can upgrade to the IS or what ever when/if you decide too. (my mistake was going right out the back of the fireview to Supervent thru the wall to a tee and then up in a chase- A stove with a top exit or different height rear exit will not work without modifying the Supervent tee location) The install was nice and clean looking but really locks me into the Fireview or a PH with the short leg kit. Virtually nothing else will fit.
 
3fordasho said:
For only $500 I'd give it a try and find out. I can heat my 1880's limestone foundation 1600sq ft two story with a Fireview but I have to push it when temps drop below 10F or so and that's with updated windows/doors and insulation. I had a second stove in an added on part of the house, but even with Minnesota temps usually one or the other would suffice for 90% of the heating season.
Just don't do like I did and design your hearth / flue set up so it only fits a fireview - design so you can upgrade to the IS or what ever when/if you decide too. (my mistake was going right out the back of the fireview to Supervent thru the wall to a tee and then up in a chase- A stove with a top exit or different height rear exit will not work without modifying the Supervent tee location) The install was nice and clean looking but really locks me into the Fireview or a PH with the short leg kit. Virtually nothing else will fit.
Click to expand...

It only takes 16" splits right? We don't see below 10s here too often so I'm hoping the Fireview will be able to keep up. I'm going to replace the front door at the very least this spring/summer. It's an old wooden door that doesn't seal properly against the frame. I can see major gaps all along the door/frame. I'm think about a steel door right now and maybe some magnets to provide a real good seal.

Does the PH really kick the Fireview's butt in heat output?
 
How old is that Fireview? In what condition? It will almost certainly need a new catalyst. I doubt it will be enough for your house but you could refurbish it and probably sell it for more in the fall if it still looks good.
 
The answer to your last question is YES. Woodstock's published BTU rating for the two stoves is pretty accurate: 55,000 Fireview with Hardwood, 80,000 Progress Hybrid. Not only that, the PH has a much bigger window, and the fireback is angled toward the window, so it throws a great deal of heat out the window very quickly, so heats a room much more quickly than the Fireview. The PH is also more efficient than the FIreview, so uses less wood to produce the same amount of heat. I've used both. My home is over 3000 square feet, in a much colder climate than yours. The Fireview cannot heat it, the PH can. But, the Fireview is a beautiful stove. I believe Woodstock recommends it for up to 1800 square feet, maybe slightly more in your climate. With a large Victorian home (built in Victorian times?) I would expect some challenges heating with only a wood stove. Are you two or three floors? Will the stove be on the main floor? Do you want it to be your only source of heat? If you want it to be your only source of heat, then I would expect Woodstock would recommend the PH.
By all means, call and ask them. They have had much more experience with their stoves than we, and they will be honest with you with regard to what you need. They are not going to mind helping you, even if you are deciding whether to get a used Fireview from someone else, vs. a PH from them.
$500 for a Fireview in good shape is a fantastic price. Where are you seeing that?
 
It should handle the majority of your winter heating season with temps in the 20-30s. On the very cold days your main heating system may have to run to supplement the heat. If you are ok with that then it should suffice. It's often a good idea to run the main system anyhow when it's very cold to protect pipes and even out the heat. But if you want a stove sized to heat the whole place, most of the time including very cold days, get the IS or Progress for the additional firepower.

And fix those leaks! It's the best bang for the buck.
 
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Grisu said:
How old is that Fireview? In what condition? It will almost certainly need a new catalyst. I doubt it will be enough for your house but you could refurbish it and probably sell it for more in the fall if it still looks good.
Click to expand...

Not sure about the age. The seller actually has the wrong model number listed from what I gather. Sent you a link to the stove via pm

rideau said:
The answer to your last question is YES. Woodstock's published BTU rating for the two stoves is pretty accurate: 55,000 Fireview with Hardwood, 80,000 Progress Hybrid. Not only that, the PH has a much bigger window, and the fireback is angled toward the window, so it throws a great deal of heat out the window very quickly, so heats a room much more quickly than the Fireview. The PH is also more efficient than the FIreview, so uses less wood to produce the same amount of heat. I've used both. My home is over 3000 square feet, in a much colder climate than yours. The Fireview cannot heat it, the PH can. But, the Fireview is a beautiful stove. I believe Woodstock recommends it for up to 1800 square feet, maybe slightly more in your climate. With a large Victorian home (built in Victorian times?) I would expect some challenges heating with only a wood stove. Are you two or three floors? Will the stove be on the main floor? Do you want it to be your only source of heat? If you want it to be your only source of heat, then I would expect Woodstock would recommend the PH.
By all means, call and ask them. They have had much more experience with their stoves than we, and they will be honest with you with regard to what you need. They are not going to mind helping you, even if you are deciding whether to get a used Fireview from someone else, vs. a PH from them.
$500 for a Fireview in good shape is a fantastic price. Where are you seeing that?
Click to expand...

Home was built in 1891. Three stories but we don't actually use the 3rd floor. Stove will be on the first floor. Yep, hoping to heat only with wood.

PH is definitely not an option lol. It's only IS or any screaming deal I may come across before IS is delivered. Sent you a link via pm too.
 
begreen said:
It should handle the majority of your winter heating season with temps in the 20-30s. On the very cold days your main heating system may have to run to supplement the heat. If you are ok with that then it should suffice. It's often a good idea to run the main system anyhow when it's very cold to protect pipes and even out the heat. But if you want a stove sized to heat the whole place, most of the time including very cold days, get the IS or Progress for the additional firepower.

And fix those leaks! It's the best bang for the buck.
Click to expand...

If whatever stove I buy can't handle the temps I'll have to run space heaters. I disconnected all the electric baseboard heaters and I'm planning on totally removing them. I'm going all in baby!! Those baseboard heaters made my electric bill a bit frightening. I'm finding it fairly easy to find firewood so having an adequate supply of dry fuel should not be an issue.

About the leaks, that will be a major undertaking. I'm planning on insulation the crawlspace/basement area this summer. I'll seal up the stupid crawlspace vents too. Then I may insulate the floor rafters (I think that's what they're called) in crawlspace and basement. Windows I'm not too sure about. No way will I replace all of them. House is filled with windows. It will probably cost me about 1/6th the price of the house to replace all the windows. I'm thinking insulation curtains and replace/insert storm windows.

I'll see if my wife wants to gamble a bit and try to flip this stove. See, I don't care what arborist site says about you guys. Ya'll are helpful, knowledgeable dudes.
 
Go large then and don't look back.

FWIW, I would never leave the house without a backup heating source. Stuff happens, like you get sick or called away for a family emergency, have to work overtime, go on vacation etc..
 
ambull01 said:
It only takes 16" splits right? We don't see below 10s here too often so I'm hoping the Fireview will be able to keep up. I'm going to replace the front door at the very least this spring/summer. It's an old wooden door that doesn't seal properly against the frame. I can see major gaps all along the door/frame. I'm think about a steel door right now and maybe some magnets to provide a real good seal.

Does the PH really kick the Fireview's butt in heat output?
Click to expand...


I've been cutting everything at 18" and they fit ok in the fireview - though 16" is probably better. Yes the PH offers considerably better heat output.
 
What temperature do you guys prefer through out the house?
 
JA600L said:
What temperature do you guys prefer through out the house?
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Hey, what's up Woodstock! Just kidding lol (IdahoNative still thinks you work for them though).

Probably around 70. Even though I've been away from Hawaii for a little over 10 years I still have that island boy personality. I like to walk around in shorts and t-shirt/no shirt year round. Plus I really prefer barefoot but I could do none of that this winter.
 
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Woodstock rates that stove at 900-1600 sqft. My calculations come out to about 2.15 cubic foot firebox. In my opinion, you will be really pushing the Fireview and loading it often most of the cold season. Trying to keep 3 stories comfortable with an undersized stove will not gain you much from where you are now.

Most people on here come to a simple agreement. Go big. Even oversize if you can. Just don't make the mistake of going too small.

That being said, the Fireview is a great stove and most people seem to like it.
 
Last edited:
Okay thanks. I'm glad you guys are here to talk some sense into me. If not I may have bought that thing on impulse.

Guess I'll cancel my IS order then reorder. They have a free shipping up to $250 sale right now.
 
I have never run the Fireview so listen to others that have. I'm just thinking you have a big old drafty house, why would you undersize your heating supply? Just my thought train. You wouldn't buy an HVAC system rated to heat only half of your house.
 
begreen said:
Go large then and don't look back.

FWIW, I would never leave the house without a backup heating source. Stuff happens, like you get sick or called away for a family emergency, have to work overtime, go on vacation etc..
Click to expand...

Whoops, guess I have to put the baseboard heaters back lol. Well to be honest I need to replace all the wall mounted thermostats. They were only supposed to kick on at 50 degrees but I found a few of them going full blast all day long. I want to find a thermostat that I can set to 40.
 
Just call Woodstock and ask them for the sale price and free shipping. I'm sure they'll update the order without having to cancel and reorder.
 
ambull01 said:
It will probably cost me about 1/6th the price of the house to replace all the windows. I'm thinking insulation curtains and replace/insert storm windows.
Click to expand...
Here ya go...dirt-cheap! ==c These work great on door jambs, just don't press 'em against the door too tight or you'll have to adjust them.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/MD-Build...r-Jamb-White-Weatherstrip-Kit-69938/205545482
upload_2015-3-24_19-0-18.jpeg
https://www.google.com/search?q=3m window insulator kit&biw=1920&bih=979&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=lfsRVZ6WGo7roATSyIKYCA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
upload_2015-3-24_19-6-8.jpeg
 
Get the stove that will heat your home in the coldest temperature expected, not average temps. Forget about average temps all together and look at record lows.

Believe me, if you plan to heat as close to 100% as possible with wood, those nights that make you wish you would have went slightly oversized will come without fail every winter.
 
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Woody Stover said:
Here ya go...dirt-cheap! ==c These work great on door jambs, just don't press 'em against the door too tight or you'll have to adjust them.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/MD-Build...r-Jamb-White-Weatherstrip-Kit-69938/205545482
View attachment 156279
https://www.google.com/search?q=3m window insulator kit&biw=1920&bih=979&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=lfsRVZ6WGo7roATSyIKYCA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
View attachment 156280
Click to expand...

Damn, actually had no idea they made door jamb weather strips. I really had my heart set on a steel door as I've read the insulation value is much greater than wood.

The window insulation kit strips are too small for my windows. I would have to use those glass door kits which is will be a bit pricey for all my windows. I ended up buying a huge roll of plastic sheeting that I just cut to size and used duct tape to secure it over my windows. My house looks pretty ghetto lol.


tarzan said:
Get the stove that will heat your home in the coldest temperature expected, not average temps. Forget about average temps all together and look at record lows.
Believe me, if you plan to heat as close to 100% as possible with wood, those nights that make you wish you would have went slightly oversized will come without fail every winter.
Click to expand...

Yeah that sounds like good advice. After this winter though just about any warmish temp will feel great. We've had no heat at all on in the house with outside temps in the teens - below 0. We just had space heaters in the rooms, a heater in the basement/crawl space area to prevent pipes from freezing, and I opened up the faucets to prevent the pipes from breaking.
 
begreen said:
We had two giant picture window units that were too large for the average shrink window kit. However patio door shrink kits worked very well. They covered our 5.5' x 11' windows easily. I like to use the 3M brand double-stick tape instead of the kit tape. The others dry out, lose their stick and can be a pain to remove in spring.

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-Indoor-Window-Shrink-120-Inch/dp/B000NHW2Z6
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...o-Shrink-Window-Insulation-Kit-V76H/202262330
Click to expand...

Yep, those are the ones I saw. I would have to buy one for just about every window though. It would be a bit expensive. Are you able to use re-use them? The plastic sheeting roll seems really durable but only issue is the cloudiness. I can barely see out the windows now.
 
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