Englander flat top 28DDSS H/M Refurb/install

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Boxcar

Member
Mar 29, 2015
7
NW Florida
Hello all, new guy here. I'm also new to wood stoves...never had my own. I picked up this lil Englander at a yard sale. It's proved difficult to get much information on it. Unusual, Google images typically is my go-to for looking something up, no luck.

I cleaned it up and repainted it. An early progress pic.
r90_144035.jpg


cleaned up
r90_210518.jpg


The paint I used.
r90_210532.jpg


New feet were needed.
r90_180354.jpg

084124.jpg


firebox needs some tabs to secure the fire brick
r90_100901.jpg

mock up.
r270_102327.jpg

134511.jpg

145934.jpg

ran out of fire brick for the bottom...back to the store I go.....

r90_184239.jpg


here's an old thimble I'm going to use. I will need to change the opening to accept 8in OD. It's cast but I've read you can jig saw it.
r90_103221.jpg


prepping the studs...more on this later
r90_100016.jpg


The door and hi-temp silver paint
r90_154829.jpg


Questions to follow soon.
 
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Welcome. The stove looks great. It will likely need 36" clearances all around if it is unlisted. These can be reduced with proper wall shielding. Is the flue collar inside dimension really 8"? Looks more like 6".

Note that there are some very important rules and clearances for stove pipe and chimney thimbles. Tell us your plan first for inside and outdoors and ask questions now before proceeding with the chimney.
 
begreen said:
Welcome. The stove looks great. It will likely need 36" clearances all around if it is unlisted. Is the flue collar inside dimension really 8"? Looks more like 6".

Note that there are some very important rules and clearances for stove pipe and chimney thimbles. Tell us your plan first for inside and outdoors and ask questions now before proceeding with the chimney.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick feedback. I'm planning on using some old roof tin with an air gap behind it...gap at bottom and top. The old tin is very heavy stuff, not like modern tin.

My planning/research with the tin/air gap led me to believe that 18 - 20 inches from a nearest corner to the tin would be acceptable and safe. Also, I was told the double wall stove pipe that will pass thru the thimble only needs 2 in clearance. I have 3 1/2 now.

It's 6" at the top. The 8in is the OD that I'm planning on...actually 8 1/4 OD.

Unlisted....???? it has data plates and certifications...also recommended offsets. stove pipe calls for 18in clearance, while the sides call for 24in. An I missing something?
 
The thru the wall clearance will depend on the pipe, but if you are using class A chimney then it should be fine. Just had to ask, we see some jerry-rigged setups occasionally.

Class A chimney pipe is 8" OD, 6" ID. which sounds like what you want. It requires 2" clearances from all combustibles. The class A thimble comes with a heat shield and inside trim typically, but you could maybe cover it with the tin trim for better looks.
 
begreen said:
The thru the wall clearance will depend on the pipe, but if you are using class A chimney then it should be fine. Just had to ask, we see some jerry-rigged setups occasionally.

Class A chimney pipe is 8" OD, 6" ID. which sounds like what you want. It requires 2" clearances from all combustibles. The class A thimble comes with a heat shield and inside trim typically, but you could maybe cover it with the tin trim for better looks.
Click to expand...

At the moment the 'store bought' thimbles have me wondering if I really need one. In the pic with the framed out square box (to the left, near the ceiling) I was considering just running the class A thru the old thimble and out the exterior one. With that arrangement it would be dead air space between the two thimbles. I also considered wrapping the inside of the framed box with some light tin for added safety. Additionally, I had considered the addition of a fire rated insulation within the middle but it seems many just use an air space between.
 
Boxcar said:
At the moment the 'store bought' thimbles have me wondering if I really need one. In the pic with the framed out square box (to the left, near the ceiling) I was considering just running the class A thru the old thimble and out the exterior one. With that arrangement it would be dead air space between the two thimbles. I also considered wrapping the inside of the framed box with some light tin for added safety. Additionally, I had considered the addition of a fire rated insulation within the middle but it seems many just use an air space between.
Click to expand...
2" air space is all that's required. This is established by the thimble sleeve. You can insulated up to the sleeve if desired. Here are some typical install views. I would use the outside flashing and the thru the wall sleeve at least.
duratech wall thimble2.JPG
 
that stove is actually model "18-P" would have been manufactured somewhere in the mid 1980's i used to have one myself years ago though mine was a bit newer , had a pedestal rather than legs. i suspect that unit woulld have been built prior to 1987-88 ish
 
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I just bought the same stove but my stove has a baffle of some sorts. Can anyone explain how this works?

Thanks,
 

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That is a catalytic convertor. I think your stove may be an Englander 18-PC. Not sure if Mike, stoveguy2esw is around to verify.
 
Boxcar said:
Hello all, new guy here. I'm also new to wood stoves...never had my own. I picked up this lil Englander at a yard sale. It's proved difficult to get much information on it. Unusual, Google images typically is my go-to for looking something up, no luck.

I cleaned it up and repainted it. An early progress pic.
r90_144035.jpg


cleaned up
r90_210518.jpg


The paint I used.
r90_210532.jpg


New feet were needed.
r90_180354.jpg

084124.jpg


firebox needs some tabs to secure the fire brick
r90_100901.jpg

mock up.
r270_102327.jpg

134511.jpg

145934.jpg

ran out of fire brick for the bottom...back to the store I go.....

r90_184239.jpg


here's an old thimble I'm going to use. I will need to change the opening to accept 8in OD. It's cast but I've read you can jig saw it.
r90_103221.jpg


prepping the studs...more on this later
r90_100016.jpg


The door and hi-temp silver paint
r90_154829.jpg


Questions to follow soon.
Click to expand...
 
Hello,

My 89 year old Dad bought one of these stoves recently and he has refinished it to put in his shop. He said that it looks brand new! They certainly clean up nicely. He built a fire in it today and can't seem to get it to draw. The dampers in front, turn right to close, left to open?
Do you have any other suggestions? I do not live in the same town and trying to help him over the phone. Thank you!
 
Yes, turn the air controls counterclockwise to open (unscrew). What does he have on the stove for a flue system?
 
Very nice refurbish on the old Englander and it will last you a very long time. I've had a larger model of the same vintage for 30 years and it's still going strong. It takes up to 30 inch logs and has saved me @ $500 a month(vs electric heat) for 6 months for 30 years in our 2000 sq ft cape. Mine draws very well.
 

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