Drolet Eco 65 and warping
- Thread starter olmec
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
hyfire
Minister of Fire
Thanks Hyfire! What causes them to warp? I saw one pic where the gap between the upper part of the door and the front panel was quit large. Im really wanting this stove as its well with in my budget. Looked at the enviro Maxx today. Very nice stove but its $3500 plus another $400 for the duct kit :0/
Ambient
Member
I haven't had any issues with warpage. Same mfr different name, Osburn 7000. The door glass gets dirty quickly is the only troubling issue so far. Although I've had it up to the max output, I didn't have it there long. If I need more heat just cranking it up half way gets it done.
Ambient
Member
No ducts, just ambient air heating the house. Sorting out available pellets and the combustion settings. Two different pellets can be adjusted to be burned for a bag a day. Others not so well.
I have a friend in town that has had a world of troubles with his pellet boiler. He is seriously considering swapping it out for a furnace type set up. I told him about the ability to duct this stove.
Oh no kidding? I didnt know you could fine tune these stoves. Ive read hyfire make mention of doing such things but sounds like its kinda a secret. Id love to be able to tweak and diag via laptop. Im sure its coming tho! Im a diesel tech by trade and 90% of my time is spent with a laptop.
Ambient
Member
I've have a digital tablet to make my adjustments. The Osburn 7000 allows adjustments to the Auger and the Combustion and Exhaust fans
Yours looks like this:
DROLET ECO 65:
By making adjustments to these on the minimum setting, I can make the adjustment for the quality, or lack of in each type of pellet. I then take my paint pen and mark on the underside of the lid what each setting is. So if I need to switch to a previously used pellet I should be close to what it take to make it happy.
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
Usually, the body will warp wherever there is flame impingement for a length of time in maximium run conditions. The easiest fix is of course fashioning an impingement plate as a 'sacrificial lamb' to deflect the flame and keep it from contacting the body of the stove, and/or you can add an internal gusset to strengthen the impacted area, which, is what I did with my USSC 39-41 after I noodled the body above the door which is the hottest part of the unit.
Took a bit of blue point tool work and body hammers to straighten and then an application od a 1/2 x 1/2" angle to the inside of the front wall above the door arch, not an easy weld because of the confined space but doable with mirrors and patience. I'd not recommend the latter unless you were a skilled welder and had pulsed MIG available.
In most instances a correctly placed impingement plate (which will become a consumable item) will work just fine.
Took a bit of blue point tool work and body hammers to straighten and then an application od a 1/2 x 1/2" angle to the inside of the front wall above the door arch, not an easy weld because of the confined space but doable with mirrors and patience. I'd not recommend the latter unless you were a skilled welder and had pulsed MIG available.
In most instances a correctly placed impingement plate (which will become a consumable item) will work just fine.
Ambient
Member
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
Just keep in mind that any impingement plate will become a wear item as the metal erodes away from the oxidizing flame. Don't matter what it's made of though 3 sieres stainless will last longer than say low carbon mild steel, the price difference for the stainless versus the lo-carb isn't worth it. You can use anything, it just needs to be thick enough to resist warping, I'd recommend 0,125" or better.
Any idea if the new evo 65 (DP00060) has a plate to protect the front of it. I thought i saw mention about it but couldnt find any pics.
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
hyfire
Minister of Fire
Ambient
Member
OK for some reason I woke up this morning and was asking myself " Why did those stoves warp? What are the circumstances that led to the warping of your stoves? Could they be reproduced unintentionally on my stove?
Are they older stoves with thinner and less resilient steel?
Are they older stoves with thinner and less resilient steel?
hyfire
Minister of Fire
I would not say thinner steel, just maybe less supporting around the door. Extended burning on high feed rate I would say is the cause, over firing.
Ambient
Member
SO before I got a handle on the minimum combustion settings I had this puppy cranking one day. The metal on the face of the stove above the door got over 850 degrees. I figured that was enough and shut it down. So we are talking temps well above that and a burn time in excess of 10 minutes...note to self: burning at 70K btu's may damage the stove.
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
Couple things going on.. One is the grade of steel and the gage. Most stove builders aren't large enough to command buying a specific grade and steel varies from heat to heat and master coil to master coil (depending on ingredients used). Stove builders will call their supplier and request say, 30,000 pounds of sheared to length 80X low carbon material. The supplier probably either has the material on hand in their warehouse or will shear it from a coil as close to the chemistry as the customer requires, but, because steel varies from heat to heat, it's usually a crapshoot on small orders. I know 30K pounds don't sound small, but it is. A typical order where the customer specs an exact grade usually is in the excess of 250,000 pounds. It takes volume to get exactly what you wants plus it takes patience. The material has to be cast at the mill into a billet, rolled, shipped, processed (levelled, edge trimmed, packaged and delivered to the customer) that all takes a lot of time. Typically, mills are running a year out on orders.
Sheared to length (also referred to as CTL material) is typically 48" wide x length. Master coils are usually 49 or 50 inches wide. Coils are edge trimmed to remove the mill edge and square the material.
So the small user takes what they can get thats close in chemistry to what they want and is available within areasonable time for a reasonable cost.
Second thing is localized heat. The steel don't just warp. It warps because there is a hot spot surrounded by cooler areas and those cooler areas are expanding (and contracting) at a different rate than the hot area, so, the not area is pushed and pulled by the cooler areas and thats what causes it to 'warp' or wrinkle or as I say, noodle. Different grades and thicknesses' of steel mitigate that occuring but then there is the compromise between what a fabricator can get in a reasonable time (availability), price and engineering considerations. You could build a stove from from .250 mild stell (A300) and it would probably stand up to any abuse the end use could dish out but it would be stupid heavy for one and not at all affordable (because steel is bought and sold by weight first alloy second).
The simple answer is mitigating flame contact via an impingement plate or structurally bolstering the impacted area (after fixing the issue of course).
I have a pretty good working knowledge of the steel industry, I worked for over 35 years for a major steel supplier and now I do custom fabrication as a retirement venture......
Sheared to length (also referred to as CTL material) is typically 48" wide x length. Master coils are usually 49 or 50 inches wide. Coils are edge trimmed to remove the mill edge and square the material.
So the small user takes what they can get thats close in chemistry to what they want and is available within areasonable time for a reasonable cost.
Second thing is localized heat. The steel don't just warp. It warps because there is a hot spot surrounded by cooler areas and those cooler areas are expanding (and contracting) at a different rate than the hot area, so, the not area is pushed and pulled by the cooler areas and thats what causes it to 'warp' or wrinkle or as I say, noodle. Different grades and thicknesses' of steel mitigate that occuring but then there is the compromise between what a fabricator can get in a reasonable time (availability), price and engineering considerations. You could build a stove from from .250 mild stell (A300) and it would probably stand up to any abuse the end use could dish out but it would be stupid heavy for one and not at all affordable (because steel is bought and sold by weight first alloy second).
The simple answer is mitigating flame contact via an impingement plate or structurally bolstering the impacted area (after fixing the issue of course).
I have a pretty good working knowledge of the steel industry, I worked for over 35 years for a major steel supplier and now I do custom fabrication as a retirement venture......
hyfire
Minister of Fire
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
hyfire
Minister of Fire
- Status
Similar threads
