need saw buying advice

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Feb 19, 2013
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Langhorne, Pa
Ok, So I need to pick up my own saw. I have been using a relatives 15 year old stihl. It is a very large saw that really rips but I will not have access to it anymore. I do not have the $ for that type of saw but need one that will handle about 6 cords a year of ash, oak, beech. I try to keep the rounds under 20 inches.

I am looking under $300.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
The echo timberwolf for 399.00 is very well reviewed and would satisfy your needs
 
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For a small saw, Husqvarna pretty much owns the 50cc/60cc market. I am running a Stihl 50cc, the 026 model, more recently sold as a model 260 but it is not cheap and the similar sized Husqvarna available these days is a better saw for similar or less money. Poulan is made by husky but is not held to the same standards as their Husqvarna models of the same size. The Dolmar saws have had good reviews but I have never seen one around here.
 
A 40cc saw will be challenged to work with a 20 inch trunk on a tree. It could be done but will be more difficult than one at 50cc or larger. The small engine will struggle with a 20" or larger bar, but it is possible to cut a 20 inch trunk with an 18 inch bar.
 
Ok, So I need to pick up my own saw. I have been using a relatives 15 year old stihl. It is a very large saw that really rips but I will not have access to it anymore. I do not have the $ for that type of saw but need one that will handle about 6 cords a year of ash, oak, beech. I try to keep the rounds under 20 inches.

I am looking under $300.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My advice: Don't buy that new SUV this year and make that >$300 budget a >$600.
 
Good quality new saws appropriate to 20" hardwoods cost more than $300, period.

I would not buy anything smaller than 50cc for the work you're describing, and 55 or 60 would be better. If $300 is a hard limit and you're not considering used saws, then you're looking at something like a factory reconditioned Husqvarna 450. You'll be happier in the long run if you can spend $400-$450 and go for something like a Husqvarna 545 or the Echo Timberwolf mentioned up above.
 
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For a small saw, Husqvarna pretty much owns the 50cc/60cc market.
Not in our neck of the woods. I finally found a dealer who sold both Stihl & Husq and I was shocked that they pushed me to Stihl. The real issue for them was that parts from Husq were not in stock at the Husq warehouse and since they had problems servicing the saws, they didn't want to sell them.
Apart from that, Stihl was higher in price but offered more power and less downtime.

I'm like the OP, I could not justify $600+ for new so I ended up buying a couple of used 026s @ $150 ea and learned how to service them myself. The old models are actually preferred by a lot of pros and the guts of them are almost identical to the new models.
I have bought cheaper saws from hardware stores before the Stihls and they are junk.
 
Damn good deal on the 365.
 
That address is blocked for me. Maybe they don't allow foreigners in.;em

Buying a used chainsaw is tricky. My advice would be to tell the seller you want to do a 'cold start' when you see it. If there are compression problems, you want to make sure the saw is dead cold when you start it. Touch the exhaust and make sure it's cold. Considering it's old, it should start in 3 to 6 pulls if done properly. I always let the seller start it and watch carefully. He should know how to run it best. That way, he can't blame it not starting on you.

If you are paying a good $$, I'd take off the muffler and look to see if pistons are scored. Do that before starting it!!
Run it full speed and you should see pink chain oil splattering on the ground (best to put a newspaper out to see it better).
It should idle smooth and run smooth at full throttle.
 
this is the deal for the 450. and the pic price is $250

00707_c2CItwuGTDo_600x450.jpg
 
Thanks for the advise. I would prefer a larger saw. What does everyone think about this listing?

http://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/grd/4968227330.html

I think you should be able to get a 455 for a similar price used, or like new. I had listed my 2013 455 Rancher for $300 with brand new chain and the Husqvarna work box and didn't get a single hit on it. I removed it and decided to keep it as my second saw to back up my recently purchased 372XP. I bought the 372 used and absolutely love it (paid $450). I found the 455 capable of pulling the 20" chain pretty well unless I got into some of the bigger stuff (22" +).
 
450 is a disposable homeowner saw and the 365 is a very well respected pro grade saw for only $50 more.
 
450 is a disposable homeowner saw and the 365 is a very well respected pro grade saw for only $50 more.

This is true. The homeowner saws simply put, don't hold their value. I wouldn't pay more then $200 for that 450, if that.
 
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450 is a disposable homeowner saw and the 365 is a very well respected pro grade saw for only $50 more.
I agree. the difference is the 365 is 8yrs old and the the 450 is under a year.
 
Just remember the 545, 555, 562xp are very different saws than the box store rancher husqvarnas
 
I agree. the difference is the 365 is 8yrs old and the the 450 is under a year.

An inept user can ruin a saw in 15 minutes. Anyhow, a factory reconditioned 450 can be had for $276.99 with free delivery right now, and sometimes can be had for as little as $210. The one you linked to is significantly overpriced.
 
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I have to say i am pretty happy with my poulan pro 50cc 20" saw. Is it as good as a Husqvarna or stihl? No but it works fine i am sure i will replace it with a better saw sooner or later but for now it works for me. I will say that i tossed the stock safty chain and got a couple stihl chains and i usually run and 18" bar wich is normally all i need but i do carry the 20" bar and chain with me in case i need it. I have cut 30+ cords of hardwood with it so far and not had any real issues.
 
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I will say that i tossed the stock safty chain and got a couple stihl chains
I was raising my eyebrows until I got to that part of your post. A good chain is the world of difference. A great sharp chain drives through the wood so beautifully. I didn't realize you could switch out just the chain and have it fit on the bar correctly.

The difference I care about in cheap vs. better saws is the chain tightening and how reliable the engine is. On my cheapie saws, the lugs that attach the tightening nuts are stuck into a plastic body and are completely useless when stripped. A lot of cheapie saws have a plastic pop out tightener which is also junk. I saw a recent thread on problems with tightening chains constantly and it reminded me of the old saws I used to have.
 
I didn't realize you could switch out just the chain and have it fit on the bar correctly.
If you get the right chain you can. With my saw i do need to adjust the chain a bit but that is due to the thinner chain that the saw uses not the adjuster moving It changes lenght more with changes in temp. I also have to keep an eye on it a little more the oiler tends to clog more often than my fathers stihl. And i need to adjust the carb a bit more as well. But i only paid $180 for it on sale at the local hardware store and have not had to spend any money on it other than getting the shorter bar and different chains. I am happy with it but like i said it is definitely not as good of a saw as a stihl or Husqvarna but on a budget it can work just fine
 
Thanks again for all the info. I am going to give this a little thought. Any other year I would just spend for the better saw but over the last year I installed the zc fireplace, and bought the splitter. The wife is starting to complain about the $.
 
Echo 590, if you live near rural king you can get it cheap
 
X2 for the Husky 365 special. I picked mine up used several years ago and it is a beast. You can run a 24" bar when needed and even upgrade it to a 372XP down the road. It is the first saw I grab when I go cutting, and will last a lifetime when taken care of.
 
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