Chain Sharpeners

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Do a quick search for the timberline sharpener--a bunch of us on here really like it. I haven't had to go to a pro for over 2 yrs now to get any chains sharpened.
 
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I recently purchased the Timberline, but haven't had many chances to use it. After using it the once or twice so far, I would say it's way overpriced for what it is.
 
I bought a reasonably good wheel grinder a few years ago and only used it a few times before going back to the file. I like to touch up the chain with each tank of gas and the grinder wheel leaves a flat vertical on the tooth, not the curved undercut you get with a file, for all practical purposes eliminating the quick field file touchup. My brother uses one of these wheel grinders and solves the problem by carrying a half dozen sharp chains in his tool box and swapping chains every couple of tankfuls. I keep a spare chain in each size in my toolbox but generally once I put a chain on, it stays on the saw until it's worn out. I just bought a Timberline and, while it is pricey, it does a great job and is an effortless pleasure to use.

Jim
 
I bought the Pferd also, used it several times and like it
 
I use the Timberline when a chain gets bunged up bad. In the woods I use the Husqvarna file guide as the Timberline is too slow. The more I use the Husky guide the less I have to use the Timberline because my angles are off. For the rakers I use a Dremel with a round sanding disc at home, in the field I use a file.
 
For a while I used the Dremel attachment... it was quick and easy and did an okay job. In retrospect I would say it brought a chain from dull to functionally sharp.

When I started milling I wanted something more accurate, so I bought the Granberg File-N-Joint. I am really pleased with this. It took a few times to get the hang of it, but now my chain has never been sharper.... I would say it's better than a brand new chain. The cutters are cut-your-hand sharp and the saw just slices through hardwood like butter. Over the weekend I was cutting some large ash trees with my 660 but I had removed spikes because of the mill. I would just rest the saw bar on the log and it would glide right through with hardly any pressure. Really no comparison to the results from the Dremel, I didn't realize what I was missing.

Cost me $35 plus $18 for a box of 12 files... gone through 4 so far in about 30 sharpenings but that includes fixing a few seriously wacky chains and regrinding a 32" chain to 0 degrees for milling. Now that my chains are generally sharp and evenly filed, it just takes a few strokes to touch them up and I expect the remaining 8 files to last a long time. One day I will do a full write-up on this sharpener but overall very satisfied with the tool.

For the rakers I have the hand file/guide and use a Dremel grinding stone to adjust them.
 
fill the gullets of your file with chalk or bar soap, they will last longer that way because chips will not become jammed up in the gullets.
 
I bought a cheap electric sharpener from Northern tool a few years ago. It works great and fast too. It sharpens with a few touches of the wheel. But then again , I don't cut with a chain that starts to throw dust. I change it out and don't have time to touch up in the field. I usually sharpen about 10 to 15 chains at a time , so I'll always have a few sharp ready to change when needed. If you don't hammer on the chains, then change out when they get iffy, your chains will sharpen faster and with less effort.
 
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Check ebay for a use 511a Oregon.
 
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