J1000 Convection motor grinding down to a halt.

Probably but it will depend on the OD of the bearing and the ID of the end plate casting as where it will work or not. If ir's a loose (but not sloppy fit) you can use Locktite 271-272 High strength, hi temperature thread locker to secure the bearing in the bore. Just be careful not to get any inside the bearing.

I spent some more time looking in a GRAINGER catalog. The one I looked at was number 404 from the year 2013-2014. On page 216 there are something called metal sleeve/bushings. They come in many, many different configurations. You more then likely can get it in the size you need but you outside bearing diameter and inside housing size needs to be known. As Sidey said you can take your parts to almost any large sized bearing place such as Trans Bearing, or GRAINGER and get help for your application. It's what they do for a living so they have the tools to measure what needs to be measured. In different locations of the country the company's go by different names. You probably will find them under power transmission.

I also found something called corrosion resistant closed PBT end caps on page 196 of the same catalog. These are expensive and it's not clear you need something like this but they are similar to what you have.

By changing out the plastic cup for a bronze or steel bushing you very well may end up with more noise because the vibration and possible noise will transfer to the housing. It may be that a better bearing then came stock with your stove would eliminate any additional noise.

So to wrap it up you really need to find a Grainger or bearing power transmission supply house in your area and take your parts and ask for help. Be aware that some places will not allow you to purchase from them without a account which is why I keep mentioning Grainger, as John Q Public can buy from them. I believe you also can purchase from Trans bearing without a account. You will need to look and see who can help you in your area.

If it were me I would first try to find a bearing that has the inner diameter of your shaft and a outter diameter that will fit into your housing assembly. If you can get one like that, which I believe you will able to find, it would be the easiest way to fix your situation once and for all. Otherwise I would go the bushing route.

The product I was first looking for is a corrugated metal wrap that you would wrap on the outside surface of your bearing and then press the whole bearing wrap setup into your housing. I would ask about this first as it would be the cheapest, easiest way to go if you can find the product. I don't know what it's called but a bearing place should know what I'm talking about.

Go luck and let us know what you end up doing.

Maybe unbeknownst to you, most power transmission retailers, like Applied Technologies (Detroit Ball), Triad, Parker Hannifin and Motion Industries have a will call counter where the public can purchase items both in stock and cataloged. Unlike their commercial counterparts, individuals will pay state and local taxes if applicable. I do business commercially with all 4 and have been at their businesses and seen individuals there, buying what I buy.....parts.

Grainger adopted the same philosophy some years back and while Grainger is handy (and delivers at a cost), their pricing is usually quite inflated over what you will pay at another, lesser known supplier. Applied carries almost the same lines as Grainger with more of an emphaisi on bearings, especially high precision bearings but they also carry tun of the mill stuff too. I also use McMaster-Carr but more for specialty fasteners.... All sell retail to the general public.

Last year I rebuilt the mower deck on my Cub M60 Tank ZTR. All the spindle bearings were basically shot and all it took was a trip to appled with one set of upper and lower bearings and a defunct grease seal and I was in business with 6 new bearing's inner and outer races and 6 grease seals for about 80 bucks or about 1/3 of what MTD wanted for them plus they were Timken, not Chinese.

Most every medium to large population center will have at least one to possibly all of the suppliers listed above, just a matter of using the Yellow Pages to locate them under 'Power Transmission'....

Another alternative is take the new bearing and housing to any competent machine shop. You can have a synthetic retainer or 2 turned from plastic bar stock in a few minutes. I always keep lengths of Zytel and other machinable plastics laying around for quick bushings and spacers. Most shops do. Problem with that is finding a shop that has the fiddle time and 2, you will pay for it.

Personally I don't feel tape would work or be a good thing. To many ways for it not to work and/or fail.

If the stock plastic cup is falling apart it's really not a bearing issue but a cup issue. The link you provided will do nothing to help your issue UNLESS the outter bearing diameter size is increased to fit into the mounting housing WITHOUT the plastic cup. Your options seem to be replace the stock cup, with another stock cup, find a heavier duty cup to replace the stock cup, or increase the outter bearing diameter to fit into the mounting housing without the stock cup.

Good deal as long as the diameters are correct. It should solve your issues.

There are also things called tolerance rings that might work in your application. They are small waffle shaped rings to take up room for proper fits of bearings in certain situations. Do a search, maybe you'll find a size that will work.

The rings you've mentioned are exactly what I was trying to find, but didn't have a name for them. It would be my first choice if the correct on can be gotten.