Chimney advice needed after "professional installation"

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Kamchatka

Kamchatka

Member
Nov 6, 2013
27
Missouri
I posted a bit a couple of years ago when we were getting ready to install an Englander N-13. Long story short, life got in the way with aging parents, deaths in the family, etc. After two years as a coffee table, the stove was "professionally" installed last week. I am incredibly leery of this installation,folks.

It seems like I read that, in going through the ceiling to the roof, the chimney pipe has to be a certain distance from any combustible - like structural wood. Took pictures through the attic access today and that chimney pipe is setting directly ON the wood on one side. The whole setup looks rather like I might have done with a chainsaw and no plan. Pretty isn't the issue. But I need confirmation that this is wrong (and if you confirm that it's right, I'll be delighted, as I am the rankest of amateurs). On a side noted, the white in the first pic is the underside of the tin roof, not sky, as I first thought.

If someone could take a look at these pics and advise me, I'd be grateful. It's still pretty cool here in Missouri and I'd like to light a fire, but there's no way I'm doing it yet.

Thank you!
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Well. Hmmmm, all I can say, on the one hand, is that my Selkirk Metalbestos pipe is supposed to be 2" from any combustible material, regardless. On the other hand, I do find that, several feet above the stove, the pipe is only slightly warm to the touch. However, that is a bit of an ugly install, to me. Whether it is actually dangerous, I'll let others chime in. You could check the temp' up there where the pipe is touching the wood. Just use your hand, if you can reach up there.
 
Unfortunately, there's no way to reach up there with a fire going. The best attic access is right behind the stove pipe. It is, indeed, ugly. I don't really care about that (it's an obviously unfinished attic), but I am concerned that the pipe rests against the wood.
 
Kamchatka said:
Unfortunately, there's no way to reach up there with a fire going. The best attic access is right behind the stove pipe. It is, indeed, ugly. I don't really care about that (it's an obviously unfinished attic), but I am concerned that the pipe rests against the wood.
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Not right, and needs to be redone. Being warm to the touch or not under general operation doesn't mean poo. The installation guidelines (probably 2 inch clearance to combustibles) are non-negotiable.
 
Thanks, Pen. The 2" was what I remembered from early days, but couldn't find it again. Husband is on his way to their shop now. :)
 
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Hope they are cooperative without much trouble on your end. Keep us posted. Good luck
 
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That label on the pipe will say 2" clearance to combustibles. Whether that's wood or gas soaked rags, it doesn't matter, it's non negotiable!
 
Also watch closely for leaks around the pipe with that rubber boot. We never use those cheap boots on metal roofs, too many leaks associated with them.
 
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Yeah what everyone else said 2" no questions it needs redone
 
webby3650 said:
Also watch closely for leaks around the pipe with that rubber boot. We never use those cheap boots on metal roofs, too many leaks associated with them.
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Ouch - I didn't even see that. What do you recommend?
 
Kamchatka said:
Ouch - I didn't even see that. What do you recommend?
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We use a metal roof flashing that's made by excel.
The rubber boot sags around the pipe and has a puddle most of the time. It also offers no support, the chimney is often very unstable. With a roof brace kit and a storm collar you'd probably be fine. But almost always both are skipped by the installer..
 
Always use metal flashing. Rubber is combustible so how would you ever meet the 2 inch minimum while using it? I use the rubber flashing only for plumbing vents, not hot vents.
 
Oldman47 said:
Always use metal flashing. Rubber is combustible so how would you ever meet the 2 inch minimum while using it? I use the rubber flashing only for plumbing vents, not hot vents.
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It is designed and tested for that purpose That means it stands up to the required temps. I don't use it because i don't think it holds up very well but it is perfectly safe and legal
 
Thanks for the correction bholler.
 
Thanks for all the information! One more question - do you know of any chimney pipe made by Security that requires only a clearance of 1/2"? They told my husband that since it is made for such high temperatures, it only requires that? Sounds like they are trying to get off with less work to me. I am so glad I paid with VISA. This will be resolved.
 
Kamchatka said:
Thanks for all the information! One more question - do you know of any chimney pipe made by Security that requires only a clearance of 1/2"? They told my husband that since it is made for such high temperatures, it only requires that? Sounds like they are trying to get off with less work to me. I am so glad I paid with VISA. This will be resolved.
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Not to my knowledge. There are some support boxes that allow only 1" of space, but once it leaves the box, 2" is required again.
 
How do they explain the wood touching the pipe? You still don't have a half inch! It's a crappy install, it needs fixed. Can you get a close up of that label? It will say what clearance is required.
How does the rest of the pipe look? I'm curious now.
 
If the installer is saying that, they should have the chimney licensed removed, the pipe is tested with 2" clearance to combustibles, under normal operation the pipe should only get warm to the touch, the reason for the 2" clearance is incase there is a chimney fire, under the right (worst circumstances) chimney fire temps can reach up to 1800 to 2000 deg, the chimney is designed to hold that temp for a matter of time before failure (as with all chimnies - masonry included) this just buys time so the fire dept can arrive hopefully get things under control with minimal damage.
 
The rest of it doesn't look bad, but I'm going to nail them on the 2". I've read the spec sheets now on every Security chimney pipe and they all say 2". My wiry little husband will be up through that hole with a tape measure after they're here on Thursday. If it's wrong, I'll dispute the entire charge and go after their license. They'll never want to do work for me again, but I don't think it's much of a loss! Poor work is worse than no work.
 
Kamchatka said:
The rest of it doesn't look bad, but I'm going to nail them on the 2". I've read the spec sheets now on every Security chimney pipe and they all say 2". My wiry little husband will be up through that hole with a tape measure after they're here on Thursday. If it's wrong, I'll dispute the entire charge and go after their license. They'll never want to do work for me again, but I don't think it's much of a loss! Poor work is worse than no work.
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I agree! It's just so sad, it's so easy to do it right the first time. It gives us pros a bad name.. I'm assuming they sub out their installs rather than use full time employees?
 
I don't think people in general understand the significance of a chimney, in my opinion the chimney setup is the most important thing to have with a wood stove appliance, whether it's the cheapest homemade stove or the most expensive technology out on the market, the chimney is the engine that drives the appliance, it will either make or break what ever you have
 
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http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/pdf/Security-Chimneys-ASHT-Installation.pdf
Here is the installation manual for your chimney it says in multiple places that it needs 2" to combustibles. Ask them to show you where it says 1/2" i am curious what their response will be because the manual doesn't say that anywhere. Personally i would stop payment on the check or credit card untill they come back and fix it it is dangerous and cannot be used that way period.
 
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bholler said:
http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/pdf/Security-Chimneys-ASHT-Installation.pdf
Here is the installation manual for your chimney it says in multiple places that it needs 2" to combustibles. Ask them to show you where it says 1/2" i am curious what their response will be because the manual doesn't say that anywhere. Personally i would stop payment on the check or credit card untill they come back and fix it it is dangerous and cannot be used that way period.
Click to expand...
I've already flagged it as a problem transaction with VISA. We'll see what happens Thursday. Thanks for that document - I'll print it out and be ready.
 
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