My Journey with a Castle Serenity Pellet Stove.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
The more i think about this the more its bugging me! so if "stretch out" the air pipe to make it longer and then run it 12" down the wall so the opening is below the vent pipe the OAK opening is then below the vent pipe yeh ??
But if it doesn't show it in the manual as an example, he might not approve it :rolleyes:. It would be more expense to run the vent pipe up the outside wall (as shown in manual examples) but possibly might get you that all important inspection approval.
And as a side note; the 45 years I've dealt with inspectors, about half have known their stuff and half not so much. It's been a crap shoot. Wish you the best!
 
NFPA 211 (2010) actually requires installation of outside air kit. http://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/document-information-pages?mode=code&code=211
Also discussed here on this thread... Owen posted first two pages of the code. OAK needs to be approximately 9- 12" away from exhaust termination based on input BTU.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-installed-new-stove-wont-run.140373/

Owner's manual does take precedence on install instructions as long as it doesn't conflict with NFPA and local building codes.
 
He may not know it but international mechanical codes are on his side.

503.8 Venting system termination location. The location of venting system terminations shall comply with the following (see Appendix C):

1. A mechanical draft venting system shall terminate at least 3 feet (914 mm) above any forced-air inlet located within 10 feet (3048 mm).

BB, now I'm confused as that seems to conflict with thimbles and pipe that have OAK built in and can use as horizontal install. NFPA says approx. 12" based on BTU:confused:
 
BB, now I'm confused as that seems to conflict with thimbles and pipe that have OAK built in and can use as horizontal install. NFPA says approx. 12" based on BTU:confused:

"Exceptions:

1. This provision shall not apply to the combustion air intake of a direct-vent appliance. "
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lake Girl
ok so are we saying that my OAK has to draw air in from 3 feet below the vent pipe and be 9 to 12" away from the end of the end of the vent pipe ?
 
From the Castle serenity manual, p 12, "vent termination MUST exhaust above air inlet elevation (OAK). Horizontal termination must be a minimum of 12" from the wall. Termination must be a minimum of 2 feet above combustibles (grass, leaves, etc). p15, "air inlet must be terminated with a vertical 90 deg bend down or w/a wind hood." Hope this clears it up.
 
So here's what i did, inspectors just been and passed it! :)

1432ntz.jpg
 
Congrats! Should your stove get insufficient air (multiple 90s and length in the OAK), you could transition the OAK to 3" flexible pipe.
 
Hi, I have a question on the Castle serenity stove. I've read up on this stove and it seems to have good reviews. My house is under 1000sqft and also has electric baseboard, but would like to heat mainly with the pellets since they will be cheaper. Is it possible to fab up an extension for the hopper? Sometimes i'm not home for a few days so i'd like the stove to stay on at low setting for 3 or 4 days if possible. Does anyone know how long the stove will last now on low setting?

thanks
 
The control panel sits on top on the back edge so any hopper extension would hide the controls unless you can get a longer ribbon cable to mount the panel on the extension.
 
I see what you mean. Could the control panel be mounted on the side? Does the remote have to "see" that control panel to work? I'd have to make something so it could hold more pellets....40lbs is just too small, but I like the reviews and simplicity of the stove and the price

thanks
 
Best to check w/ the manufacturer first, you will want to make sure the extra weight will not adversely affect auger / auger motor operation. (Have the same hopper limitation w/ the Francesca here.)
 
Hi, I have a question on the Castle serenity stove. I've read up on this stove and it seems to have good reviews. My house is under 1000sqft and also has electric baseboard, but would like to heat mainly with the pellets since they will be cheaper. Is it possible to fab up an extension for the hopper? Sometimes i'm not home for a few days so i'd like the stove to stay on at low setting for 3 or 4 days if possible. Does anyone know how long the stove will last now on low setting?

thanks
I average 18-20 hrs. on a hopper on low, so you would have to atleast triple the hopper size just to get somewhat close to 3 days,I love my serenity but I don't think it's the stove for your application.
 
Can you set your low setting even lower? If I doubled the hopper and got 2 days I suppose I could live with that.

Does anyone have a number or website to get ahold of Castle? I googled and couldn't find anything. I want to ask them if putting more weight on the auger assembly will harm it.

thanks
 
Can you set your low setting even lower? If I doubled the hopper and got 2 days I suppose I could live with that.

Does anyone have a number or website to get ahold of Castle? I googled and couldn't find anything. I want to ask them if putting more weight on the auger assembly will harm it.

thanks
low is the lowest setting for feeding pellets, there are individual adjustments for the fans but not the auger.
http://www.castlestoves.com/ If you scroll down the page to support there is a contact us tab with the phone #
 
Castle groupies, Hello!

Wish I had found you all about last April when I first got my Serenity. I've learned more here in an hour reading from your experiences than I've picked up anywhere so, thank you! Unfortunately, I'm going to have to do a little more work on my install, fortunately it looks like I've got a lot of folks here that know what they're doing.
Two things you have all done is an OAK and a mod on the vent handle and I have not. That's first up. Shouldn't be to big of a deal, right? Lol.
My place is split level, about 12-1300ft. I located the stove under the stairs so it would vent up through the stairwell. My problem thus far, and probably has a lot to do with OAK and adjustable vent is generating enough heat to warm the upstairs? It'll run you out downstairs now. The stove soots up and burns a big flame most of the time so from what I've read here that's all wrong and for the amount of pellets it burns it doesn't seem like it's generating the same amount of heat you are all getting. So, I've got some work to do.
I do love this little guy and I know he's got it in him I just need to figure out how to make him go. I had a Quadra fire wood burner but no time to get wood and tired of the mess so I got the Castle. Thanks for the info already here and thanks for any help and suggestions as I go along.
 
First thing you really need to do is hookup the oak then you can get the airflow adjusted properly and then I think you will be fine, this stove really cranks out the heat with good pellets and the proper burn.
 
My work schedule is in the way till Saturday pm. Need to find the flex hose or something for piping it in. My setup should be pretty simple, straight out through the wall and a ninety. Exhaust is about a foot higher than the stove top. A foot or so off the exterior wall.

I'm a little surprised they have'nt fixed the adjustment without having to do a mod on it so you can conveniently change how it's set.
 
My work schedule is in the way till Saturday pm. Need to find the flex hose or something for piping it in. My setup should be pretty simple, straight out through the wall and a ninety. Exhaust is about a foot higher than the stove top. A foot or so off the exterior wall.

I'm a little surprised they have'nt fixed the adjustment without having to do a mod on it so you can conveniently change how it's set.
yeah that setup is stupid with having to remove the side panel,I have been wanting to call Ardisam and talk to one their techs and suggest they add an adjustment rod for the airgate but just have gotten around to calling yet
 
Outside of these flimsy looking flex hose kits is there anything else I can use? I was thinking of just using PVC all the way? It's a straight run through the wall then a 90 at the end. Put a critter screen in the end and call it a day?