Patch has been done. My mason opened up the crack and put in hydrolic cement in 3 layets , then some matching grey durolock paint. He also patched around the drain pipe with a cement mix that can be dug out if needed, both jobs $325.
Basement wall patch advice
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In my past life working at a large industrial complex I paid pros to inject specializes products to chase cracks. Generally they weren't epoxy but that seems to the be the generic term for the chemicals they use. The EPA has been wary about the chemicals used and for years, the good stuff could only be applied by licensed applicators. If done correctly it works, they drill holes into the crack and install special plugs that they can use to pump in liquid into the crack and wherever it encountered water it sets up and expands sealing the crack. It is water reactive so it only sets up where its wet. The down side is that if there is water on one side of the wall and no water on the other side of the wall, the water is going to try to find a way through the wall. The contractors called it chasing cracks, seal one crack and a few hours later the water finds its way out another previously unknown crack. It can go on for awhile. In many cases we would have them seal the crack and then put an hole in the wall down lower and route the flow in a controlled manner to a drain. Therefore its not a replacement for good drainage.
One of the biggest jobs was a 100 plus year old stone dam used for a fire reservoir. The state one year discovered it was there and freaked out due to its construction and condition. It didn't contain a lot of water. The water was spraying out all over the face of the dam. We hired a contractor to drill holes from the top of the dam down to the base of the dam and pump barrels of the product into the dam. All the leaks stopped within minutes. It was 10 years ago and I haven't been back to look at it to see if its leak free.
In my past life working at a large industrial complex I paid pros to inject specializes products to chase cracks. Generally they weren't epoxy but that seems to the be the generic term for the chemicals they use. The EPA has been wary about the chemicals used and for years, the good stuff could only be applied by licensed applicators. If done correctly it works, they drill holes into the crack and install special plugs that they can use to pump in liquid into the crack and wherever it encountered water it sets up and expands sealing the crack. It is water reactive so it only sets up where its wet. The down side is that if there is water on one side of the wall and no water on the other side of the wall, the water is going to try to find a way through the wall. The contractors called it chasing cracks, seal one crack and a few hours later the water finds its way out another previously unknown crack. It can go on for awhile. In many cases we would have them seal the crack and then put an hole in the wall down lower and route the flow in a controlled manner to a drain. Therefore its not a replacement for good drainage.
One of the biggest jobs was a 100 plus year old stone dam used for a fire reservoir. The state one year discovered it was there and freaked out due to its construction and condition. It didn't contain a lot of water. The water was spraying out all over the face of the dam. We hired a contractor to drill holes from the top of the dam down to the base of the dam and pump barrels of the product into the dam. All the leaks stopped within minutes. It was 10 years ago and I haven't been back to look at it to see if its leak free.
Warm_in_NH
Minister of Fire
The drill and inject method is great, but my guy also warns that the water may find another way in.
If I recall correctly, an average large (floor to ceiling) crack ran 3-5 bills. But on 3 out of 3 cases, that was it, done, dry, no more messing around.
A barrel full in a dam, wow, I would be afraid of fracking the dam and blowing it to bits.
I know guys that have used hydrolic cement to break apart old concrete stairs by drilling a lot of holes, filling em with hydrolic cement and waiting. Supposedly it's easier than a sledge hammer.
If I recall correctly, an average large (floor to ceiling) crack ran 3-5 bills. But on 3 out of 3 cases, that was it, done, dry, no more messing around.
A barrel full in a dam, wow, I would be afraid of fracking the dam and blowing it to bits.
I know guys that have used hydrolic cement to break apart old concrete stairs by drilling a lot of holes, filling em with hydrolic cement and waiting. Supposedly it's easier than a sledge hammer.
Different product, the stuff they used to break concrete is generally referred to as "slow dynamite". Britestar used to be one of the brands but I think they are out of the business. If there isn't any rebar, it works great on concrete and rock. Just drill in series of holes in the right place, pour it into the hole in the afternoon and come back the next morning to a pile of broken concrete. It works slow, no dust, no noise. I have run into a few folks who bought houses with the basement poured over rocks and they used it to remove the rocks.
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