worx electric chainsaw

munkyboi · May 5, 2015

hi all,

i am looking to get an electric chainsaw mainly for noodling big rounds so i can split them with the fiskar X27.

after doing some research online, i am narrowing my choice down to the worx 3.5 hp 14.5 amp with a 16" bar or the worx 4 hp 15 amp with a 18" bar. the weight difference between the two models seems to be minimal. with my intent purpose, which one do you think is a better choice?

thanks,
m

pen · May 5, 2015

I'd be surprised if either could handle this job well.

Any thought towards an electric splitter? I think the money might be better spent going in that direction.

munkyboi · May 5, 2015

pen said:
I'd be surprised if either could handle this job well.

Any thought towards an electric splitter? I think the money might be better spent going in that direction.

the splitter is a great suggestion, but i actually enjoy the "cutting" part of the process. in this case, handling the chainsaw would be more fun than handling the splitter.

if i take the "sledge hammer with wedges" route, what size of a sledge is recommended? i am not big, so i don't want to get a sledge that is too heavy and i get exhausted quickly. 6 lb, 8 lb, 10 lb?

Jags · May 5, 2015

8 lb sledge is the most useful (in my opinion) for driving wedges.

And I hate to say it, but I think you are going to be woefully disappointed in trying to use an electric saw to noodle rounds. They simply don't have the chain RPM of a gasser. Not even close. The round may actually rot before you get through it.

munkyboi · May 5, 2015

Jags said:
8 lb sledge is the most useful (in my opinion) for driving wedges.

And I hate to say it, but I think you are going to be woefully disappointed in trying to use an electric saw to noodle rounds. They simply don't have the chain RPM of a gasser. Not even close. The round may actually rot before you get through it.

after listening to you all, i gather that an electric chainsaw is not a good option to noodle big round.

i just placed an order for a HART 8 lb sledge and 2 ESTWING E-5 sure split wedge.

thanks.

macattack_ga · May 5, 2015

I've got that worx saw. noodling would be painfully slow.

byQ · May 5, 2015

I had an electric chainsaw - Poulan - 14 or 15 amp with an 18" bar. I also have gas chainsaws. I found the electric very useful especially around the house. Yes, they are different but they are underrated. Some of the good things 1) they are quiet, 2) you go from off to on by pulling the trigger, 3) less parts to worry about, & 4) they are light. I bucked up some 20" pine logs. Ya, it took longer but it wasn't to much longer.

From what I've learned the largest Makita electric chainsaw is kind of gutless (to bad because it is well made). If you buy a Worx be sure to report on its effectiveness.

munkyboi · May 5, 2015

byQ said:
I had an electric chainsaw - Poulan - 14 or 15 amp with an 18" bar. I also have gas chainsaws. I found the electric very useful especially around the house. Yes, they are different but they are underrated. Some of the good things 1) they are quiet, 2) you go from off to on by pulling the trigger, 3) less parts to worry about, & 4) they are light. I bucked up some 20" pine logs. Ya, it took longer but it wasn't to much longer.

From what I've learned the largest Makita electric chainsaw is kind of gutless (to bad because it is well made). If you buy a Worx be sure to report on its effectiveness.

15 amp 4 hp with 18" bar
14.5 amp 3.5 hp with 16: bar

which one would you recommend?

Harman newbie · May 5, 2015

munkyboi said:
15 amp 4 hp with 18" bar
14.5 amp 3.5 hp with 16: bar

which one would you recommend?

i had the 18in. word . The big question was HAD. It was able to cut through some red oak but painfully slow and gummed up blade sometimes. Just sold it and looking for gas one

byQ · May 5, 2015

munkyboi said:
15 amp 4 hp with 18" bar
14.5 amp 3.5 hp with 16: bar

which one would you recommend?

Because the weakness in electric chainsaws is torque/power I would go with the bigger one. If your primary woods are hardwoods like oak or locust a gas saw would probably be the best option. But having an electric with a gas saw works good - the electric can be used for the lighter jobs which saves wear and tear to the gas unit.

Jon1270 · May 5, 2015

I'm just going to reinforce the early advice you already got: don't buy an electric saw to noodle anything. An electric saw might be handy now and then for some light tasks, but not for noodling.

OldJack · May 10, 2015

I have a Worx 303.1 14". It's a good saw for light duty trimming and bucking, but it's weak point is noodling. It plugs up right away and brings the noodles around the sprocket and out the front. While I haven't stalled it it's not doing it any good.
It beats a gasser when it's below Zero Fahrenheit. Just use 1 ounce of kerosene per tank of 5W-30 chain oil. The tool-less chain tightener overdoes it. Put a screwdriver between the bar and chain before you tighten it. Pull the screwdriver and see if you can lift the chain from the bar. Oregon says the drive links shouldn't quite leave the groove. Run the saw, ease off on the switch and it should coast for a couple of seconds. It's not that light, about 1/2 pound heavier than my Stihl MS170. Copper weighs more than magnesium, aluminum or plastic.

It's good for what I bought it for. Bucking firewood to stove length 50 feet from an electrical outlet.

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