Can I solder this electric starter wire on my tractor?

I'm 99% sure that wire with the loose lug is + and should be insulated
The large black one on the opposite large terminal should go up to the battery + terminal.
The small black with white stripe probably goes to your ignition switch and the white one with the red stripe likely goes up to a fuse box.


soldered stranded wire usually fails from vibration and that stud on the relay will suck the heat out of the lug unless it is disconnected.
The lug on the end of the wire is usually crimped with a crimping tool. It looks like the wire is so loose in that one that it has pulled out about a quarter of an inch or so. You could use a punch, but not connected to the relay, you'll break it.

I'd remove the starter and fix that lug/terminal by punching it back down or having the wire replaced.
Or borrow a crimper and see if it could be re-crimped or a new lug put on without pulling the starter .
You'll have to disconnect the wire from the relay because the crimpers are usually large.
I'd tape up that wire good too if it isn't replaced.

This can be fixed easily. It looks like the wire from the solenoid that actually goes into the starter motor. If you don't Know how to disassemble the starter to replace the wire, bring the entire starter to an alternator/starter repair shop. The labor will cost more than the part. It should be $40 or less.

billb3 said:

It looks like the wire is so loose in that one that it has pulled out about a quarter of an inch or so. You could use a punch, but not connected to the relay, you'll break it.

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This^^^ It looks like the bare, stranded copper wire (it's not a "rusted" wire, it's copper) has pulled out of the crimp. That is likely your culprit. It needs to be crimped.

Because you earlier asked what crimping is and nobody answered your question; crimping is a process by which you insert a wire into terminal/lug/electrical connector, and then use a crimp tool (like a modified heavy-duty pliers) to squeeze the terminal onto the wire so that it provide a mechanical lock. Sometimes (on certain terminals) you can substitute other means such as the punch and hammer mentioned above to "smash down" a section of the terminal where the wire goes. But first you will want to re-insert that wire where it has pulled out of the terminal. And also, as mentioned, don't use the hammer/punch method when the terminal it attached. Not only is there a risk of shorting something and making sparks, but you may also damage the lug or terminal.

I have a theory about bears and electricity. Poking it with a trick gets you bit.
Since you have been working against that theory, I suggest you have the entire electrical system check by at least a friend who knows more about electrical systems than you do.
Most electrical faults are ground related. Second are dirty connections.
Remove/ disconnect battery befor attempting any repairs.
This should be an easy repair, but for safety and piece of mind get some help.

Jags said:

That is a very basic solenoid. The braided wire (which is hot when the solenoid is engaged) has clearly backed out of the original crimp position. It needs to be shoved back in (or terminal lug replaced) and re-crimped. The bare braided line should really be covered. As I said - that line is hot when the solenoid is engaged. It is the power input to the starter.

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I hope your right. That would make it an easy fix. I think it's corrosion in the cable at the kink.

As far a it being insulated or covered. You cover 1 or both the terminals on the solenoid as well. Its just ment to keep you from getting ran over.

Yes what others said. If the loose connection is the large exposed wire. Be carefully with that was wire, it shouldn't be uninsulated. Don't let it touch ground. When you energize the solenoid there will be fireworks. That's the full battery being shorted out and probably no fuses. I assume you see the loose connection. But if not, as bad as it all looks, it may not be the problem. Most of the time selonid contact or starter brushes.

If a few bucks is not an issue, I would pull the starter. two or three bolts. Take it the a starter rebuild shop. They have all the parts to fix it up right.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before messing around with the starter. You've gotten some good advice so far. It's an easy fix you sould be capable of doing yourself. Pull the starter, or maybe not depending on if you can pull the end cap with the starter in place. Remove the existing wire and call around and see what parts stores can make you a new wire - looks like 4 gauge.

I don't believe that wire was ever insulated, look where it enters the starter, the insulating bushing is intact and so is the wire. Not that insulating would hurt it if done correctly but if it is just taped the tape will hold moisture and corrode more than the bare wire will.
You might be able to solder it but you'll need more heat than an iron would provide, think torch, and then you'll also have the solder wick up the straded wire and make it basicly solid and it will break with the vibration or when it needs to be disassembled. The other problem with soldering is the end of the soldnoid, were the bad connection is, is plastic. If you remove the starter remember this plastic when loosening and tightening the battery cable and this connection.

Also, since the connection has been loose while trying to start it i'll bet there was more than one occasion where the starter didn't quite turn the motor over as it should, maybe a little smoke off it at this time? Thats really hard on the starter motor, not quite enought current to spin the motor and the juice that is there was cooking the starter commutator, getting the starter serviced may not be a bad idea.
And if you want to do it yourself i'll help as much as i can and i'll even volunteer the other too, doupt they'll mind.

There's usually something on it. Not always as sometimes there is just a bare tab.