Basement flue with no bottom clean out?

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Chinneysweep187 said:
In my opinions though if you can break the bottom of thimble out I would drop the liner with no tee cap and then everything would drop down to your normal clean out
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You never want to do a re-line Tee system and leave the cap off. It's part of the system and needs to used!
 
I assume bholler runs a piece of liner off the bottom of the Tee and then uses the cap on the bottom of the Tee extension. So the original clean out door is usable.
 
Chinneysweep187 said:
What's the point if it drops down to a masonry clean out ?
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Because the masonry clean out can leak air causing major problems. A re-line is intended to be a sealed system, from the stove-top to the chimney cap.
 
Chinneysweep187 said:
In my opinions though if you can break the bottom of thimble out I would drop the liner with no tee cap and then everything would drop down to your normal clean out
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That is absolutely the wrong thin to do it would let air in to the bottom of the system which is a terrible idea. The system need to be a sealed system which means you need to run liner down to the clean out and use a second tee. Then seal it all up and use a good tight door or use a tee cap over the opening which ever works best.
 
webby3650 said:
I assume bholler runs a piece of liner off the bottom of the Tee and then uses the cap on the bottom of the Tee extension. So the original clean out door is usable.
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Yes


webby3650 said:
Because the masonry clean out can leak air causing major problems. A re-line is intended to be a sealed system, from the stove-top to the chimney cap.
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And yes
 
If it's some crap clean out from the 60s then I agree but my clean out is a masonry door with a gasket . Leaked air is not a problem . Also you could simply silicone the door .
 
bholler said:
That is absolutely the wrong thin to do it would let air in to the bottom of the system which is a terrible idea. The system need to be a sealed system which means you need to run liner down to the clean out and use a second tee. Then seal it all up and use a good tight door or use a tee cap over the opening which ever works best.
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I agree with that and have done it many times but in his scenario it seems like a lot of work
 
Chinneysweep187 said:
I agree with that and have done it many times but in his scenario it seems like a lot of work
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If you agree why did you propose leaving the tee cap off? In my opinion that is just a half assed way to install a liner. Like i said before i dont really have an issue with no clean out but if there isn't one you need the drop of the tee.
 
I said that because the ways the pictures looked it seemed like a lot of work to open up bottom of the thimble . Probably would have to rebuild part of the wall to properly get in there to demo it out .
 
but the way you mentioned is definitely preferred also idk what I was thinking at the time because if the thimble has a bottom you can't leave the tee cap off to begin with lol
 
Chinneysweep187 said:
I said that because the ways the pictures looked it seemed like a lot of work to open up bottom of the thimble . Probably would have to rebuild part of the wall to properly get in there to demo it out .
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I am not trying to pick on you i am sorry if it seems that way but some of the was just wrong and as a pro I feel obligated to correct you
 
Chinneysweep187 said:
Putting an extension on the tee is not in the manufacturers instructions and violates the listing but okay
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Yes it is in many manufacturers instructions what brand pipe are you referring to? Do they allow for an open system? Because to pass the ul 1777 it need to be a sealed system. So if their instructions say other wise they are violating the ul listing
 
Chinneysweep187 said:
Which manufacturer allows you to extend the tee and please provide the proper references
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Olympia ventinox copperfeild simpson. Those are the ones i know of off hand.


Chinneysweep187 said:
And I still don't see how a clean out with a sealed door is an open system .
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Because the liner is not sealed there for it is not a sealed system.
 
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My best friend had a brand new house built. Had a new masonry chimney built with an 8" rigid SS liner right from the start. The "certified" installer left the Tee cap off.
The first in incident: stove overfired uncontrollably for no apparent reason.
Second incident: stove quit drawing mid burn. They came home to a new house full of smoke and an unconscious dog!
The clean out door wasn't sealed and was bypassing the stove completely. If the installer had half a brain, he would have put the clean out door at Tee level so he could reach in and remove the Tee cap. Not to mention clean it without getting on the 12 pitch roof!
 
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Chinneysweep187 said:
the clean out is an extension of the liner also and if no air is getting in then it is a sealed system
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This is an incorrect way to install a liner. The Tee cap is NOT an option. I don't want anyone researching this topic to run across this thread and get wrong info.
 
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webby3650 said:
My best friend had a brand new house built. Had a new masonry chimney built with an 8" rigid SS liner right from the start. The "certified" installer left the Tee cap off.
The first in incident: stove overfired uncontrollably for no apparent reason.
Second incident: stove quit drawing mid burn. They came home to a new house full of smoke and an unconscious dog!
The clean out door wasn't sealed and was bypassing the stove completely. If the installer had half a brain, he would have put the clean out door at Tee level so he could reach in and remove the Tee cap. Not to mention clean it without getting on the 12 pitch roof!
Click to expand...
Yes but I am making sure the clean out is sealed which he obviously did nothing t. That's why they make draft gauges and such
 
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