New Wood Insert

Grisu said:

Yep, I won't call a sweep who believes in that "pine is bad"-myth. Many people here, me included, burn properly dried pine just fine. My chimney looks as good or even better as the winters I only burned hardwoods. What do you think the burners on the west coast are doing where they mostly have to use softwoods?

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/safe-to-burn-pine.81698/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/burned-again-by-the-pine-myth.89299/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/burning-pine.86205/

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I was just being an ass. But pine is definitely not a wood I would recommend to beginner burners which I obviously know your not . But I would also stick with your previous statement and use it during the first year or seasoning . It actually gets worse over time I think .

FishHarder said:

Any good method of making sure the wood is reasoned fully. I heard if it doesn't light within 90 seconds while sitting on ambers it's still wet. I always thought if it didn't smoke it was seasoned. Def finely going to push the 5100i and the Boston to the wife. Really liked the flush fit. But I really am liking those two more.

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wood can be too dry and people make that mistake the first step of combustion is the drying process which is very important and the best moisture content for wood is 15-25%. Good signs are bark peeling up , when you hit two pieces together they should "crack" not thud. Some people can tell by color I'm not one of those people .

FishHarder said:

Any good method of making sure the wood is reasoned fully.

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The arrangement in this picture is about ideal: http://cdn.instructables.com/FXC/BDTJ/HJ605MEM/FXCBDTJHJ605MEM.RECTANGLE1.jpg
That's how you build those racks (although pallets and criss-crossed ends work just as fine): http://www.instructables.com/id/No-tools-firewood-rack/
Important is: Raised from the ground, small splits, loosely stacked, single rows, lots of sun and wind (perpendicular to the prevailing wind direction), top-cover, and the right wood species (ash, pine).

I heard if it doesn't light within 90 seconds while sitting on ambers it's still wet.

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Not sure if that is a reliable indicator. Black locust can easily take that long even when dry, while wet pine will burn in less than a minute. The wood should certainly not hiss and bubble. Your best bet will be to get a moisture meter. Harbor Freight has a cheap one or check your local hardware store. In the fall, take some firewood pieces, split them in half and press the pins of the MM in the center of the fresh surface. Under 20% is great, under 25% burnable. If it is not dry enough try supplementing with compressed wood logs like Bio-Bricks, Envi-blocks etc. A bit pricey but your best bet for getting a good burn if your wood is not quite ready yet.

FishHarder said:

I use oil (no natural gas around) went through 750 gallons last year. I have a bit of bad heat loss in two rooms. (Gonna take care of that tgis summer) And with little kids 4 and 2 wife had the house warm. And since I'm electric hot water. Firewood seemed right.

Maple split now won't be ready? It's 90 now. Crazy question. But I have a old Holly tree I cut. Will that be OK to burn? I burnt the leaves in my burn barrel and they went up like jet fuel.

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Maple may be in the ballpark by February, depending on species.

FishHarder said:

Stove Lark. I do like the flush look. But the Boston looks nice as well. Trying to please the wife with looks and me from flipping the oil guy off lol

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What is your overall style, decorating wise? Sleek, modern? Country? Or something in between.

FishHarder,

If you have a classic ranch, you have a door to enter the bedrooms. With the stove in the common area, getting lateral hot air into the bedrooms is a challenge, especially through that one doorway.

FishHarder said:

Standing with your back to the fireplace. You would face my bed room hallways. Only a 10 ft wall to your left that then I'd an open kitchen and dining room/addition. Windows to the right. So I just make sure it moves air to my children's rooms and mine. Warming our rooms at night is the most important part. Or I'll have to redisign my layout

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Bingo! Getting hot air down that hallway and into the bedrooms is next to impossible at our house, 3 Br's, 2 baths.

We're putting in heat pumps in the back BR's.

I know its too warm now, if you have zone heat, but you might try turning on the common area zone only and seeing how the heat moves to the bedrooms.

Chinneysweep187 said:

It actually gets worse over time I think

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I have not experienced that one yet and some of my pine is 3 years seasoned. However, it easily soaks up water so top-covering is a must or a good downpour will ruin months of seasoning. You also need to be more careful when burning dry pine as the stove can overfire quite quickly. I certainly recommend not placing it directly on hot coals and turning the air down sooner than with hardwood.

FishHarder said:

It's Sugar and silver Maple.

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Sugar maple is great firewood but I doubt it will dry enough over just one summer. Start with the silver maple, make small splits and you may get there just in time. Any possibility to get some ash? No ash borer in your area yet or is it already all gone?

I like ash , locust, walnut, oak and maple . I've heard good things about beech, cherry , and Hawthorne

Grisu said:

I have not experienced that one yet and some of my pine is 3 years seasoned. However, it easily soaks up water so top-covering is a must or a good downpour will ruin months of seasoning. You also need to be more careful when burning dry pine as the stove can overfire quite quickly. I certainly recommend not placing it directly on hot coals and turning the air down sooner than with hardwood.

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in gonna take your wood on it Grisu and try seasoning some pine or find some that already is . Hopefully it doesn't gunk up my stove or liner . If it does oh well I'll slam it all with cre-away and sweep that sucka.

Give it a shot. I've found pine is not only good as firestarter or in the shoulder season but has also become my go-to wood when it is really cold outside. Since it burns hot with little coals I can load the stove about every 4 hours and keep the house nice and toasty. Hardwoods just don't give out enough heat anymore in their long coaling stage when it is in the negative degrees outside.

FishHarder said:

I know this isn't the right spot to ask. But any preference on a chainsaw. I have a Stihl MS170 14" but will be needing something bigger to cut these logs. I don't really wanna spend my kids saving on a butter knife

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I would open a new thread in the gear-forum: https://www.hearth.com/talk/forums/the-gear.7/ Since you already have a saw for smaller stuff the recommendation will probably be to look for a pro saw in the 60 cc range. Stihl MS361 is a favorite here.

FishHarder said:

That's my next idea. Was since the hot air will go to my central air return. Might even try leaving fan on. It would filter the air and help circulation of the hot air

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If your runs go through the basement, the hot air may cooled on the way to the bedrooms.

Pine is fine . . . I generally use it as kindling or in the shoulder seasons . . . in fact, it's perfect as a shoulder season fuel as you get quick, hot fires to heat up the stove.

Key is to make sure the pine . . . like any other wood . . . is seasoned. Once seasoned . . . no issues with creosote like any other wood.