how long can bk princess burn

700*F is on the upper end of what the Princess is capable of. Lots of variables involved so BKVP could probably answer best but I think the insert is slightly smaller than the free standing that I have. The wood you use plus fan speed or running without the fan will make quite a difference.

The closest I can come to an answer is I can run 10 hours or so with the fan on a medium setting at around 550*F with hardwood. The stove will slowly cool toward the end of the burn cycle but this is cranking out some heat on the coldest -0*f days of winter!

I've said this before, if you need to maintain a 700* STT to heat your place this stove isn't for you. The idea behind a cat stove is you don't need big stove top temps when the stove is putting out steady/continuous heat. If you need big heat a tube stove or maybe a hybrid stove will be better suited for your needs. Running any stove at those types of temps will perform similar if the box is a similar size. If big temps are needed a big firebox is needed for a longer burn.

I can't answer your question since I've never had to let the stove run that hard for anymore than an hour or so. Once I dial my stove down it likes to run in the 450 range for a long time.

What Blaze Kings give up in peak temps, they make up with a more steady temp over the length of the burn cycle. Tis the function of the thermostat.

BTUs is BTUs. Keep in mind you're talking about a 2.5 cu ft firebox here.

TJ:

Many of the points written are accurate. There is a given amount of energy in a pound of biomass. Cord wood is NOT a metered fuel, so it does not burn evenly or release energy evenly. When you have a wood stove (whether it is cat or non cat alike) you manually regulate the amount of air available for combustion. With adequate chimney draft, sufficient air will get pulled into the firebox for combustion purposes.

Couple the uneven burning nature inherent in any cordwood (regardless of species), with that of a manual air control and you have what are most wood stoves. The bimetallic thermostat in the Princess Insert will meter out the amount of energy available in a complete load, evenly for the entire burn period. (Unless you change the desired heat out put) This feature is why our stoves are so extremely popular and also most efficient.

Any of the great guys here on this site can place a thermocouple on the stack 32" above the flue collar on their non Blaze King stove. Load 50 lbs of wood and set the air control at the desire setting. Attach a chart recorder to get a record and you will find extreme temperature swings, not because the stove is inferior, rather because the fuel being burned is NOT a metered fuel and the uneven burning tendency will be shown in black and white ink.

Do the exact same thing on one of our units and the recorder will show virtually no change in stack readings for the entire duration of the burn.

To your question, sorry, but your specific install can vastly influence the answer. If you run with a .02-.04 w.c." of draft and you run the stove on high, and your fuel is 18% or lower in MC, you can get the stove top temps of most stoves.

But BrotherBart is most correct. I would be keenely interested in knowing how you came to the demand parameters you mentioned in your OP. Do you have a current stove that gets to these levels and is NOT capable of satisfying your demands?

From what I know of the nc-30 I can say that heating 1700sf shouldn't be much of a chore for this stove.

As others have alluded to, your money could likely be better spent on tightening the place up and ventilation at this point.

tjcole50 said:

Current nc30 has to maintain 700 for 5* or lower. Atleast to keep propane at bay. Looking at possible future upgrades. I need to have an energy audit on the place. Very open floor plan 1700 sq ft A frame 21 ft peak. Stove sits on our main exterior fireplace wall and battles that peak. House was built in 78 newer windoes and replaced old front door last year which helped alot. Last couple of winters has been pretty extreme. Especially heating only with the nc30. Getting a longer burn time would be great which is why I have asked this a couple of times

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I think I see a problem. NC30 is a radiant heater, no? Where is the heat going when you place a radiant heater next to a large heat sink, such as an exterior stone wall?

You need a convective stove. I am speaking from painful experience, here.

If you have an A frame, then more than likely you have some very warm, hot air way up high some where. 21 foot peak, are there vaulted ceilings as well? If so, get a regular thermometer a place it near the highest point and get some internal heat readings.

The NC-30 is a highly regarded stove, built by a equally highly regarded company. Let these guys help you find out where the heat is going.

Hey all you NC-30. Owners, is 750 a max. surface temp? Could moisture content of the fuel be keeping the unit from hitting greater numbers? If he can get higher peak temps off a load, then maybe he will be able to run it a bit lower and benefit for a longer burn time.

All you BK owners.....I fly to King of Prussia tomorrow. If you think you want to come to the Casino and have a drink (on me), send me a pm.

Chris

An insert in a fireplace at an exterior wall will most likely do worse than a stove sitting in front of the fireplace as you will be losing more heat out the back. Combine that with the Princess being a bit smaller than the NC30 and you will be hard pressed to even get the same performance. Maybe the Kuma Sequoia will be able to handle your heat load. Still, I would first tighten up the house and then determine what size stove/insert will be needed. Have you checked the fireplace wall how much heat is going out there? Maybe stuffing some insulation in the fireplace cavity behind the stove will already be an improvement. I assume you have a proper block-off plate?

If the nc30 can't do it then the princess insert will fail miserably. Smaller stove and an insert. I also find it impossible to maintain 700 degree stove top temps with my nc30. I can easily get to 750 but it's a peak thing followed by a longer time in the 600 range. If you try to maintain such high temps you will likely run into coal buildup isues.

BrotherBart said:

I have been checking the outside back wall of my fireplace with an IR thermometer for ten years. And it has never been one degree over ambient. I now hand that outside chimney stuff over to the people that say pine craps up chimneys.

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Good for you but apparently not all fireplaces are created equal: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...lating-my-fireplace.75755/page-3#post-1842157
Taking a few measurements is easy and won't hurt. Running a 3 cu ft stove full tilt all the time means the heat has to go outside somewhere.

Btw. The back of my interior fireplace regularly runs 20 to 30 F warmer than room temp. Not that I mind having a pseudo-"masonry heater" but I would certainly not be happy if the fireplace back would go out to the yard.

Have you got a ceiling fan in there to keep the heat from pooling at the top of the peak? Check your other doors for air leaks. This stuff works great: http://www.homedepot.com/p/MD-Build...Weatherstrip-Kit-69938/205545482?N=5yc1vZc3dy

Ashful said:

NC30 is a radiant heater, no? Where is the heat going when you place a radiant heater next to a large heat sink, such as an exterior stone wall? You need a convective stove. I am speaking from painful experience, here.

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I don't think he said he had a stone wall and he's got an open floor plan, so heat should move well and a radiant stove should work well.

BrotherBart said:

I have been checking the outside back wall of my fireplace with an IR thermometer for ten years. And it has never been one degree over ambient. I now hand that outside chimney stuff over to the people that say pine craps up chimneys.

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FLIR photos of the outside of my house, with two of my Jotul Firelights running. Both chimneys have insulated liners. Both of these hot spots are thru 18" - 20" of mud-stacked (1770's) stone.

Ambient was 12F, I believe.

Woody Stover said:

I don't think he said he had a stone wall and he's got an open floor plan, so heat should move well and a radiant stove should work well.

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I assumed, "fireplace on exterior wall" was masonry, but maybe not!

Ashful said:

FLIR photos of the outside of my house, with two of my Jotul Firelights running. Both chimneys have insulated liners. Both of these hot spots are thru 18" - 20" of mud-stacked (1770's) stone.

Ambient was 12F, I believe.

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I assumed, "fireplace on exterior wall" was masonry, but maybe not!

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I have to get me one of those Flir cameras!

Ashful said:

I assumed, "fireplace on exterior wall" was masonry, but maybe not!

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No doubt, but he probably doesn't have "an exterior stone wall" like you do. Built in '78, the wall should at least have fair insulation I would guess.

BKVP said:

I have to get me one of those Flir cameras!

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I apologize to the OP for the OT, but... yeah, BK should definitely have one of these. I'll try to get some photos of the Ashford in action for you next winter. Here are some of my first Jotul.

BKVP said:

I have to get me one of those Flir cameras!

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There useful for lots of things. A friend of mine (glad he has one) has even used his to spot potential problems with his animals.

Ashful said:

I apologize to the OP for the OT, but... yeah, BK should definitely have one of these. I'll try to get some photos of the Ashford in action for you next winter. Here are some of my first Jotul.

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I could use it to find hot spots in race car, overlapping headers....firewall etc. Ashful you should join me for a drink. I'll be in King of Prussia tonight and tomorrow night. No car, but at the casino.

Race car.
Vice President of blaze king.
Gotta get me a job like that.