I have propane and I want to start heating with wood. I stated researching wood stoves as soon as i had the propane tank filled the first time. (New home) I have the stove narrowed down to a blaze king ashford 30. I have a 1500 square feet ranch and as long as i can keep the house at 65 or higher the wife will be happy. I started cutting wood in January of this year. I have about 3 cords of ash, maple, and cherry split and single row stacked since at least April. It's not 100% sun but gets a lot of wind. My main question is am I ready for a stove? Or should I want another year to ensure the wood is fully dry? I was dead set on having the stove installed this summer until a guy at work told me a story about a chimney fire he had due to burning wood that wasn't dry. Thanks for any input.
Am I ready for a wood stove?
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claydogg84
Minister of Fire
The three types of wood you listed will most likely be ready for this winter. You may consider picking up a moisture meter and probing a few to see where they are.
Ok thank you. I have a moisture meter it's one from lowes and just seems inconsistent and didn't want to rely on it.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
What type of numbers are you getting? Are you splitting the wood and testing the freshly split face?
It's been a month or so since I tried it. I did split the split to test it. I'll give it another try and see what I get.
I agree that the 3 cords you have stacked, while not optimal, will due for this winter but may not be enough to get you through without some help from the propane. As a new burner you should be checking the chimney every couple weeks anyway until you get a feel for what to expect.
Now is the time though to get ahead. Start cutting for the 17-18 season.
I heat 1500sq ft in WV with the Princess (only one full season so far) and think you will find the 30 to be a good fit. The BK's can idle way down for shoulder season chilly nights and crank out good heat on the coldest days of winter.
Now is the time though to get ahead. Start cutting for the 17-18 season.
I heat 1500sq ft in WV with the Princess (only one full season so far) and think you will find the 30 to be a good fit. The BK's can idle way down for shoulder season chilly nights and crank out good heat on the coldest days of winter.
Thanks for the input. I have about 5 truck loads of logs of black walnut, maple, cherry and ash. Hoping to use it for the 16-17 season.
Grisu
Minister of Fire
The moisture meter may be inconsistent because you have 3 different wood species. The ash should show the lowest numbers, while the maple is likely still somewhere in the 30ies. I don't have any experience with cherry but it's probably still pretty wet. If you can identify the ash, that should be ok this winter. You could buy some compressed wood logs (Envi-blocks etc.) to mix in with your not quite dry wood. In the winter, keep an eye on your chimney and clean it a few times and you should be fine. Maybe you cannot yet burn 24/7 but you should be able to enjoy some stove heat.
Grisu, Wild Cherry ( if that's what the OP has) is on the soft side and does dry fast. It would, and has been something I would cut in a simular situation with < a year drying time.
In my area Poplar is abundant and a good compromise for something that dries quick and burns well.
In my area Poplar is abundant and a good compromise for something that dries quick and burns well.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Stacked in the wind and not split too big, that wood should be adequate, though not ideal. Is that soft Maple? If so, it dries quickly.
Keep your splits to a 3-4" width size Stacked loosely in the wind and the ash and cherry should be real close to go for fall- maples vary , Silver and Red likely ok by fall Norway and rock 16/17season As was suggested get a pallet of the compressed wood block and mix with your splits this season and you will get by. Box Elder is another quick dry split small as well as most fruit woods. Standing dead is always a good choice particularly if the bark is off. Brings up another point splits will dry a bit faster minus the bark- course it is a royal pain debarking everything. Back in the day when Dutch Elm was the scourge that was the only way you could keep Elm around for fire wood lest the campfire police get you. Some of the elms are fairly quick at drying out as well again split small.
Another though maybe you can due some horse trading wood wise for this year as well with members here or on a couple other forums that may be in your area if they are far enough ahead like myself ( I have about a 4 burning season rotation working)
Another though maybe you can due some horse trading wood wise for this year as well with members here or on a couple other forums that may be in your area if they are far enough ahead like myself ( I have about a 4 burning season rotation working)
Your friend experienced a flue fire not only because he burned under seasoned wood. There are lot more factors to consider. Old smoke dragon stoves can produce tons of creosote in a very short amount of time, so can a modern stove if operated improperly. Certain chimney set-ups are more prone to build up than others too.
Your Ashford will burn the wood you have with no problems, just make sure to let er rip once a day!
Your Ashford will burn the wood you have with no problems, just make sure to let er rip once a day!
Do you have a chimney already or do you plan on installing one? With the cool flue temps the BK's produce proper draft is more critical than most stoves.
Just throwing that out there as something you may want to feel your dealer out on. Especially if they will be helping you with chimney installation. This could be something that saves you and BKVP a lot of grief
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Simple....Just follow the recommendations in the Owners & Operators Menu.
Try Northfield Fireplace in Northfield or Cherry Valley Stoves in Andover. Both will have stock.
Thank you,
Chris
Try Northfield Fireplace in Northfield or Cherry Valley Stoves in Andover. Both will have stock.
Thank you,
Chris
I will need the chimney installed. Does that mean I will need a taller chimney?Do you have a chimney already or do you plan on installing one? With the cool flue temps the BK's produce proper draft is more critical than most stoves.
Just throwing that out there as something you may want to feel your dealer out on. Especially if they will be helping you with chimney installation. This could be something that saves you and BKVP a lot of grief
You'll want to at least have a chimney that meets the mfg. minimums for height. Will this be going in the first floor? If yes, approx what is the distance between the first floor's floor and the roof?
I went and looked at a stove shop today. They are coming out next Wednesday for an estimate. They told me a rough price of about $6000 plus tax for an ashford 30. They also told me there are hearth pads that can go right on carpet. Is that's correct? I thought that the carpet would need to be cut. Thanks.
With chimney install and everything right? Get some specifics on what your money is buying you and we'll be better able to comment on the price.
This was just a rough estimate. $3100 for the stove. $1500 for chimney. $500 for hearth pad. And $875 for install.
$500 for a hearth pad is too much protection. This stove only needs ember protection for the hearth. It does not require thermal protection. If you are trying to bring the price down you could safely put the stove on a layer of tile, glass or sheet metal to meet this requirement or get a basic hearth pad like this:
http://www.menards.com/main/heating...-slate-floor-wall-shield/p-1698722-c-6857.htm
http://www.menards.com/main/heating...-slate-floor-wall-shield/p-1698722-c-6857.htm
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The salesman said I need thermal and ember protection because it was going right on carpet.
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