wanting to know if i can have a stove

Welcome to the forum. When you start to look at stoves, look at the owner's manual. Most of them are available for on line viewing. It will say whether or not a particular stove is rated to be installed in a mobile home. Even if it has a mobile home rating it will have a requirement for an outside air kit and will need to be bolted down. Roof penetrations are not really a big deal. They can be made water tight by using an appropriate flashing kit. Good luck on finding anything in your price range. I have a small stove that cost me more than 3 times your budget and I did all the work myself.

Hi Nabisco- you can find a small steel stove (check out Drolet, Century, Englander for starters), you can probably find one close to your price. And yes, gotta be approved for mobile home installs, look at their manuals for that. The chimney will work better and be less expensive through the roof. Good luck with it.

I would take a look at the Pacific Energy True North. It is mobile home approved and with its 1.9 cu ft firebox should get you close to an overnight burn. The hearth is also ember-protection only, which is a big advantage over the Englander stoves for example. Drolet Escape 1800 would be another option, as is the Heatilator Ecochoice WS18. All those are solid stoves that are efficient but not too expensive. When shopping around look for a stove that is EPA-approved and has a firebox ~2 cu ft which can then give you an overnight burn. Don't pay attention to the sqft. numbers; they are usually rather meaningless.

How many cords of dry wood do you have already? Without dry wood you won't have much fun with your new woodstove. Usually wood needs to be split and stacked for up to three years in the sun and wind to get below 20% internal moisture content.

Was just looking at the AM FM Energy Timber Ridge factory refurbished stoves http://www.amfmenergy.com/manufacturer-refurbished-stoves.html
The Madison looks like it needs ember protection only. However, it states EPA certified (pending process). What exactly does that mean?

I could be wrong but amongst things unique to Mobil home instalation like frame grounding, outside air kit, and bolting down the stove I think the chimney must also exit through the roof.

Lake Girl said:

Was just looking at the AM FM Energy Timber Ridge factory refurbished stoves http://www.amfmenergy.com/manufacturer-refurbished-stoves.html
The Madison looks like it needs ember protection only. However, it states EPA certified (pending process). What exactly does that mean?

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old info, the "process" has been completed and the unit's ember protection certification is approved. I need to get with Andy and have him update that page.

PE TN19 and Eco choice stoves are good choices, but around twice what the OP asked for, although I agree both would be good choices. Not sure myself if chimney has to go through roof, but don't think I've seen anyone go through sidewall with a mobile home... could be ok, not sure.

stovelark said:

PE TN19 and Eco choice stoves are good choices, but around twice what the OP asked for, although I agree both would be good choices.

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There is just not a whole lot of good stoves in the price range the OP asked for. I think we all agree that you have to be careful with the big box store brands.
The Englander 13NC won't you really give an overnight burn according to several owners here and needs a hearth with r=2.0. After factoring that in it is not that much cheaper anymore. Someone also reported seeing the TN19 for $800 on display; don't remember which store that was but does not hurt to look around.

Not sure myself if chimney has to go through roof, but don't think I've seen anyone go through sidewall with a mobile home... could be ok, not sure.

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For that it is best to ask the local building inspector. They should know the code.

stoveguy2esw said:

old info, the "process" has been completed and the unit's ember protection certification is approved. I need to get with Andy and have him update that page.

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Great to see you again. I was getting worried...

stovelark said:

Not sure myself if chimney has to go through roof, but don't think I've seen anyone go through sidewall with a mobile home

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Probably want to go straight up to get adequate draft with a stack that's gonna be on the short side...

tarzan said:

Mobil home instalation like frame grounding

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Forgot that part! Thanks for the reminder.

stoveguy2esw said:

old info, the "process" has been completed and the unit's ember protection certification is approved. I need to get with Andy and have him update that page.

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Dix is highly interested in this "Madison" .....

Mobile home - many units rated for that type installation -you will need to raise your funding for this though. I had a very old 900 ft home that I heated fairly well with a wood stove for a bunch of years- Stove was rated at 1100 sq ft a bit marginal for my place( insulation was very poor 2x2walls ect.) You need to under stand that the water system is run next to the forced air heating ducts - this to keep pipes from freezing so you are going to need to install heat tapes on the lines- won't need them on all the time ( some available with auto theromostats they last a few years and then need to be replaced). I had my stove in the middle of the unit but it had a very narrow hallway to the bedroom areas hence the rear most room was difficult to heat. But depends on your lay out. I went straight up though the roof no issue sealing it but any flue system class a is going to run you apx $ 500-700min. It is required by code for an outside air intake either down through the floor and the underside insulation and belly skin or out the sidewall. As far as bolting down well its required- don't mean squat- floors are particle board - more for if the home is moved to a different location with stove in place. You will need the transition unit for the ceiling that is going to be a bit challenging as there is not a lot of room up there but it is required. A lot of the units do not even allow for access up there. I have never used a through the sidewall system but you must allow for natural heat rise in the flue system - no horizontal pipe run except for the actual penetration of the wall ( 45 deg. pipe sections are the best way) paying attention to clearance to the ceiling from the flue, minimum install should be double wall flue pipe inside.
In very cold weather you are goig to want to run the fan of the conventional furnace- hedge against freezing pipes ( it is a royal pain to to fix leaks in these ( got the tee shirt)
Ask questions here as I likely have an answer from personal experience with type of install.