2014-2015 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)#2

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Good points Highbeam and Jo err Ashful. Yes it is hard not to recommend a BK for many situations after you run one and as Ashful stated, I to made my purchase based almost solely on the threads I read here. I spent some time on the Woodstock sight also but didn't see that "mobile home approved" that I need.

I make no bones about the fact that I am very satisfied with my BK and will continue to provide info based on my experience but in the end, staying safe and warm is priority no matter what we are building a fire in!
 
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Good points Highbeam and Jo err Ashful. Yes it is hard not to recommend a BK for many situations after you run one and as Ashful stated, I to made my purchase based almost solely on the threads I read here. I spent some time on the Woodstock sight also but didn't see that "mobile home approved" that I need.

I make no bones about the fact that I am very satisfied with my BK and will continue to provide info based on my experience but in the end, staying safe and warm is priority no matter what we are building a fire in!

This is one of the reasons why this forum exists (in my opinion at least). It is for people like me to read these posts and make educated/informed decision.
Based on the information I have read here in the past several years my next stove will likely be BK a30, unless a new more improved model will come on the market in the next couple of years.

Had I found this forum back in 2007 I would have never bought a VC product! And to top it I bought by far the worst product that VC ever made (again in my opinion), the famous "Neverburn downdraft system"

Thank you everyone for taking the time and sharing your true experiences with these stoves.
 
there is only so much heat in a stick of wood, but no other product manages that potential better and provides the heat distribution as evenly. The top plate of our stoves is 1/4" thick. You pointed out the use of 10 gauge, but not the 1/2" thickness of the by pass plate and other components exposed to excessive temperatures. I love the challenge you posted and so long as you are open to the learning of how our products excel, we can have a great dialogue. One last point. Webby is a great guy. He spends almost as much time on the site as Begreen. His efforts are genuine.
Thanks for weighing in, Chris. This is the kind of input I'm looking for. :cool: Yep, the thermostat has got to be a big factor in keeping the right amount of air moving through the stove and extracting maximum heat from the load. And thanks for the info about the 1/4" top. That's what the Buck has as well, and I wouldn't worry about warpage in this critical area of the stove with that thickness. Nice beefy bypass plate, too. I recall one guy that was looking at a used Keystone or Fv, and it had a hole burned the bypass door. :oops: I still don't understand how that could happen...the Ws cast bypass door isn't thin, by any means. One thing I like about the Buck is that the "door" is a heavy sliding plate so no gasket there to get caked up with creo that may fall into that area. And when the plate is slid back in the open position, it is subject to very little heat.
I agree about webby's contribution; He provides a lot of great info and helps out countless people with his knowledge. One of my problems is my tendency toward 'verbal hyperbole,' which is easy for folks to take in a way I didn't mean it to be. If I had begreen's even writing style, no one would ever get annoyed with me. ;lol Hope to get up webby's way at some point to check out the BKs in person. It's about 3 hrs. from me...
Here in the west, the BK stoves are still under 3000$ fully optioned out. At least my princess was. You eastern folks have historically suffered from a poor distributor situation where a middleman was taking a huge profit. Maybe that situation is gone
It seems like BK is making an effort to get more distributors in the network, so maybe we'll see the benefits of that here in the farther reaches.
What value does thicker steel offer when a thinner plate would not fail?
True, and another advantage is a quicker ramp-up back to operating temp. If I let the Buck burn down real low, it's like trying to turn around a battleship, getting 'er up to temp again. ;lol That can be minimized by using the right amount of air and keeping the heat in the stove, but you still gotta heat that metal.
The ash handling system on the BK is like most other stoves. A plug and unsealed small pan. It works okay, I've used it, but the biggest drawback is the small pan volume. This is a design decision and another one of those factors that either is or is not important to you.
The Buck, being an insert, doesn't have a deep floor or pan but the flip-up door and big opening make it usable.
All current hybrids are crippled by excessively short burntimes....the WS offers a decent option.
Yeah, reports are they have good burn times, no doubt due to the fact that they can easily be dialed back into cat-only mode.
Thank for the summertime posts. Keeps us sane.
The season will be upon us again before we know it. I better get to on it...got a little stove maintenance to do. :oops:
Had I found this forum back in 2007 I would have never bought.....the famous "Neverburn downdraft system"
Yes, but just look at how much you've learned about stove operation, running that picky machine. ==c
 
No need to be sensitive. This is all good information. Thanks for pointing out the difficulties of testing a thermostatic stove. FWIW PE uses pumice bricks and Quads too I think. An Alderlea T6 outweighs the Ashford 30 by over 150 lbs.. I think that difference is in the metal. Not that the Ashford isn't a great stove. It has features I like better than the Alderlea and looks very well built. Maybe one of these days I will get a chance to try one.
If you weren't so far away I'd pass on an incredible deal on an Ashford to you. I'll need to make room for the new Woodford once it's released!;lol
 
Yeah, reports are they have good burn times, no doubt due to the fact that they can easily be dialed back into cat-only mode.

Let's not make this a WS vs. BK thread but the best WS "cat only" burn still only gets you 50% of the burn time and double the heat output of the same sized BK. It is a question of how low can you go. And yes, that low low setting is where I burn 90% of the time so it IS important. You like how I worked "IS" in there? Ha!
 
Dang it webby3650. I was just making up specs for the Woodford. >>
 
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Really looking forward to a full season with this new steelcat vs. the old ceramic. Maybe I'm a little obsessive but I've always removed my flue probe meter and the cat probe meter and cleaned the scale and junk from the probes every week or so. Check the color like a spark plug too.

The last month or so of last season I was burning with that steelcat an I had nothing accumulating on the probes. It is as though the stove is burning cleaner.
 
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One of the fans I received with my Ashford 30's sounds a little like a bicycle with a baseball card in the spokes. The other three sound fine, so I have a basis for comparison, something is definitely rubbing or something (may actually be inside the motor) on one of the four.

Has anyone had the same? I need to pull it back off the stove to inspect when I get home (been traveling), as unfortunately I did not test the fan until it was on the stove. Assuming it's nothing obvious that I can easily fix, what is the procedure to obtain replacement, call the dealer or call BK direct?
 
One of the fans I received with my Ashford 30's sounds a little like a bicycle with a baseball card in the spokes. The other three sound fine, so I have a basis for comparison, something is definitely rubbing or something (may actually be inside the motor) on one of the four.

Has anyone had the same? I need to pull it back off the stove to inspect when I get home (been traveling), as unfortunately I did not test the fan until it was on the stove. Assuming it's nothing obvious that I can easily fix, what is the procedure to obtain replacement, call the dealer or call BK direct?
One of my fan blades was hitting a wire. It was doing exactly as you described, like a card in the spokes. Take the cover off of it and re-route the wire a little bit, it's an easy fix.
 
Will have to check it out. Just got home tonight, from a whirlwind of travel. Had two glasses on Fegley's Venemous imperial honey ale, and now I'm staring crooked at a computer screen.
 
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Will have to check it out. Just got home tonight, from a whirlwind of travel. Had two glasses on Fegley's Venemous imperial honey ale, and now I'm staring crooked at a computer screen.
Although we endeavor to never make a mistake, a wire tie may not have been cut to the proper length. Please keep me informed as to what you discover....
 
after a ton of reading on here I just bought a King ultra with fans. I pick it up today. Then the install begins.

Does anyone use a 7" chimney? I need to replace me 6" for obvious reasons but I'm having a hard time finding used 8". I did call BK and was told 7" would be ok. I've found 7" for sale but unsure if it's even worth changing the whole flue out for only 1". If I'm going through all this work I feel I should be doing the 8". Thoughts?
 
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after a ton of reading on here I just bought a King ultra with fans. I pick it up today. Then the install begins.

Does anyone use a 7" chimney? I need to replace me 6" for obvious reasons but I'm having a hard time finding used 8". I did call BK and was told 7" would be ok. I've found 7" for sale but unsure if it's even worth changing the whole flue out for only 1". If I'm going through all this work I feel I should be doing the 8". Thoughts?
Go find 8" and never look back....
 
after a ton of reading on here I just bought a King ultra with fans. I pick it up today. Then the install begins.

Does anyone use a 7" chimney? I need to replace me 6" for obvious reasons but I'm having a hard time finding used 8". I did call BK and was told 7" would be ok. I've found 7" for sale but unsure if it's even worth changing the whole flue out for only 1". If I'm going through all this work I feel I should be doing the 8". Thoughts?

So weird that 7" is so common up there in Cananada. To get the most out of the king, put in the 8" and pay attention to the minimum flue length requirement. You are getting a rockstar stove that can't reach its full potential unless you power it (the chimney is the engine) with the proper chimney.

I also worry about using unapproved pipe sizes with regards to your insurance coverage in the event of a house fire. I wouldn't want to give them any reason to deny you claim. It would be different if the owner's manual for the king specified that 7" was allowed.
 
Last fall I used the lowes single wall pipe to connect from the collar to the ceiling support box, I was out of time and money to order the double wall, it worked fine all season, it seems a little cheap, probably 26gauge material, no that the season is over, its time to buy the right stuff.
If the single-wall worked, then it IS the right stuff. BK just specs double-wall to reduce complaints about smoking. But the single-wall is more efficient, more heat into the room instead of up the chimney; the flip side of that is that the flue gasses aren't as hot, so it might not draw as well, and you might have more creosote. It's a trade-off.

Of course, yeah, something thicker than 26ga would be good. Elmer's is nice and thick, but the quality control is dreadful (pieces don't always fit together properly) and the guy is a PITA.
 
If the single-wall worked, then it IS the right stuff. BK just specs double-wall to reduce complaints about smoking. But the single-wall is more efficient, more heat into the room instead of up the chimney; the flip side of that is that the flue gasses aren't as hot, so it might not draw as well, and you might have more creosote. It's a trade-off.

Of course, yeah, something thicker than 26ga would be good. Elmer's is nice and thick, but the quality control is dreadful (pieces don't always fit together properly) and the guy is a PITA.
Rusty,

In addition to the creosote issue (which isn't really much of one as the system is down stream of the cat) the lower draft can keep the stove from hitting peak temps. So, I'll try to explain how it also hurts the low end.

With less draft, you also cannot operate the stove as low as possible and still keep the cat active. So long as the draft is sufficient, when you cut back on the air, the chimney is still pulling in enough air to keep the cat active. Hope this all makes sense.

Chris
 
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