MS660 Questions

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claydogg84

claydogg84

Minister of Fire
Sep 9, 2013
1,792
Salt Point, NY
So I've added another saw to the collection and I've got a couple questions hopefully some of you can help me with. First, I can't find a parts manual anywhere - Is this a dealer only type thing? Husqvarna I can go right online and look up what I need, so when I call I just have to give them the part numbers. Secondly, is there any way to tell how old the saw is? I've noticed 2 different style pull start covers on these saws. One has a Stihl plate while the other has the word Stihl built into the cover.
 

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Nice saw. That's quite the line up you have now. Didn't you start with a Husq 455? I'm not 100% sure about either question, sorry just wanted to comment on the saw. I ran a 661 recently but unfortunately it was overshadowed by the ported 395XP that the guy also brought with him.
 
Stihl is unusual in that they don't freely distribute parts and service manuals publicly. People do post them on various websites, but Stihl's legal eagles eventually get them taken down. They don't work too hard at it, though. I usually Google something like "Stihl [model] parts pdf."

Here's a currently-active link for the 660.
 
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Also: unlike Huskies, the date of manufacture is not baked into the serial number. There's often a month and year indicated on a large sticker on top of the base of the rear handle, but it seems to have been removed on yours. The top covers and starter on yours are a relatively recent style.
 
Clyde S. Dale said:
Nice saw. That's quite the line up you have now. Didn't you start with a Husq 455? I'm not 100% sure about either question, sorry just wanted to comment on the saw. I ran a 661 recently but unfortunately it was overshadowed by the ported 395XP that the guy also brought with him.
Click to expand...

Yeah I did start with the 455. I seem to have a chainsaw addiction of sorts.. I paid $550 for this one which I think is a good price. Has OEM head and no markings on piston.
 
Jon1270 said:
Also: unlike Huskies, the date of manufacture is not baked into the serial number. There's often a month and year indicated on a large sticker on top of the base of the rear handle, but it seems to have been removed on yours. The top covers and starter on yours are a relatively recent style.
Click to expand...

Husqvarna makes it much easier to figure out the year for sure. I'm missing some sort of black plastic baffle piece that is supposed to sit underneath the 2 top covers but in between. I'm not sure what it's called? I saved that PDF, thanks!
 
Sounds like the Air Baffle, PN 1122 141 6300 on page 43
 
Another question - The chain slowly spins as well as a slight squealing noise when the chain brake is disengaged. Clutch going bad, or something easier?
 
Nice saw. Sounds like it may be the needle bearing in the clutch bell.
 
If the chain moves with the brake off, you need to reduce the idle speed.
 
The squeal is, my guess, the centrifugal clutch trying to engage but just barely touching, not properly engaging. If you back it away from engaging it should quiet right down.
 
image.jpg Dug into it a bit when I got home today. Found a retaining clip broken and loose inside the drum. Should I buy new clips and rebuild it, or buy the entire clutch? Also you can see the burnt sides where the drum is making contact with the plastic. The center bearing fits pretty loosely inside the drum which is allowing too much play. Replace drum and bearing? I'm a diesel mechanic by trade, so I sort of have an idea what I'm doing.
 
someone who knows saws better than me should chime in but the color kinda concerns me on my 66 or the 46 the clutch doesn't have that dark burnt on oil look. might be your oil pump in behind the clutch is leaking. or and im going out on a limb on this one bad crank seal.
 
Time for a whole new clutch, including drum and bearing. You definitely don't want one of those shoes letting go while it's running, because it's likely to be driven around in there, breaking the oil pump and banging up parts of the crankcase.
 
Ok so I'll order clutch, drum, bearing, u clip. Is there anything I should be changing while I'm this far in? image.jpg
 
Lift out that worm gear with the square wire arm that drives the oiler, and check that the wire arm has a good grip on the plastic gear. Sometimes they loosen up, and then the oiler doesn't push enough oil to the bar.
 
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It also looks like that brake band is getting worn thin in some areas, but it will probably still last a good while, and does no harm when it breaks.
 
Wishing I had just spent the $700 on the "like new" 660 that was for sale. This is turning into a money pit fairly quickly. I went to sharpen the chain and the prior owner used a grinder which has made the hand file useless. I'll call tomorrow and put my order in. I'm expecting to spend $200-250 with 2 new chains.
 
Oh, it shouldn't be that much (unless you need other parts you haven't mentioned). Chains are probably $25-$30 each. If you really want to save money, a whole aftermarket clutch can be had for less than $40, or even less if you don't mind ordering direct from China and waiting a few weeks. OEM will cost more for sure, but I'd still expect it to be cheaper than what you're imagining.

eBay has used OEM clutches starting around $25 shipped (inner assembly only).
 
Need clutch, drum, bearing, clip, pull cord, air baffle, plug, chip guard, fuel filter, scabbard, and 2 chains. I think the clutch is $85 and I'm not sure about the drum. The chains are like $36 each from Baileys :eek:. 28" chains..
 
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