I have regasketed the door AND the ash pan door but cannot control the fire the way I used to be able to on my Jotul combi 4,I even went out and bought more gasket to fit the space between the door and stove outside the sealing area.Does the window normally have a gasket around it? Where do you get a thin flat gasket light that.Have only seen the round gaskets online or in stores.Did find the gasket and cement in Lowes for $8 lots cheaper than online.
Russo 1cwc wood coal stove
- Thread starter gogiburn
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Corie
Minister of Fire
At the top of the door opening, is there a slot (horizontal?). If so, there's a built in air wash and you can't close that air without closing the passages with a magnet. Be forewarned that burning that stove at smoldering burn levels, like you want to do, is going to make it a creosote factory.
No there is a sliding slot at the bottom but the door itself is solid,the top of the stove has 2 opening for forced fan exit
Corie
Minister of Fire
I know the door is solid. Open the door, and look at the flat spot at the top of the door opening, below the knife edge that meets the gasket. Horizontal slots?
oH oK,i'LL CHECK WHEN i GET HOME,DON'T REMEBER ANY SLOTS WHEN i CLEANED IT TO PUT THE NEW GASKET ON
No openings anywhere.I did block off the glass and that seemed to solve the problem temporarily with scotch tape (yes I know).
Now the problem is finding a gasket thin enough or a high temp tape to seal it.Any suggestions? Thanks
Now the problem is finding a gasket thin enough or a high temp tape to seal it.Any suggestions? Thanks
Corie
Minister of Fire
Ahh, yes the glass should have a gasket around it. Usually its a self adhesive tape, 1/8" thick, .75" wide, give or take.
webbie
Seasoned Moderator
As corie seems to be getting at, Russo Stoves intentionally allow some air in around the glass - specifically between the glass frame (black or brass sheet metal) and the stove door (cast iron). Sounds like you (ripper) have made somewhat a mess of the whole thing! Oh, well, that's DIY for ya!
The stove door should seal properly to the stove body just using the stock type gasket - I have seen both flat and sometimes "squashed" round gasket used for sealing various Russo models to the stove door frame.
The enclosed sketch is how I remember it...
The stove door should seal properly to the stove body just using the stock type gasket - I have seen both flat and sometimes "squashed" round gasket used for sealing various Russo models to the stove door frame.
The enclosed sketch is how I remember it...
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Not sure why you say I made a mess of things?????
I bought new gasket for the ash door and fire box door and replaced.I haven't done anything to the glass yet,that why I was asking? I want to be able to run the stove overnight,which I was able to do last night with the tape (I know) covering the gaps in the glass frame.Corey,what type self adhesive gasket do I look for and where to get it? Thanks RIP
I bought new gasket for the ash door and fire box door and replaced.I haven't done anything to the glass yet,that why I was asking? I want to be able to run the stove overnight,which I was able to do last night with the tape (I know) covering the gaps in the glass frame.Corey,what type self adhesive gasket do I look for and where to get it? Thanks RIP
webbie
Seasoned Moderator
Oh, just being funny, here.....
This small wood/coal stove is not designed for overnight burns on wood - it is really a coal stove that can burn wood, and any "tighten up" that you do will make it into a real creosote monster. If you do have a Russo CW (coal wood), I would highly suggest burning hard coal in all but the warmest weather.
Another reason for my "mess" thoughts was your mention "more gasket to fit the space between the door and stove outside the sealing area" - this is not needed and will not do any good - and I was just picturing it!
Is this your stove? You can clearly see the glass detail, and it is not made to plug up (with scotch tape or gasket).
https://www.hearth.com/gallery/pics/woodcoal/source/image/russo.jpg
This small wood/coal stove is not designed for overnight burns on wood - it is really a coal stove that can burn wood, and any "tighten up" that you do will make it into a real creosote monster. If you do have a Russo CW (coal wood), I would highly suggest burning hard coal in all but the warmest weather.
Another reason for my "mess" thoughts was your mention "more gasket to fit the space between the door and stove outside the sealing area" - this is not needed and will not do any good - and I was just picturing it!
Is this your stove? You can clearly see the glass detail, and it is not made to plug up (with scotch tape or gasket).
https://www.hearth.com/gallery/pics/woodcoal/source/image/russo.jpg
WOODBUTCHER
Minister of Fire
Ripper,
Craig has posted a picture of the stove I used to have. You can take the glass off (via the studs) and use a very small rope gasket between the glass and door channel (you can use a small bead of furnace cement, but it will etch the glass and make it messy for future service) But It didnt seem to make a differeance what I did to the glass or the stove....... The only way to fire it hot was to make sure the firebricks on the bottom (over the shaker grate) had spaces between them (if you have the other type of Russo it is a steel plate with holes) And you have to use a fire poker now and then to keep those spaces clean. The stove on the other hand is what Craig calls "cresote monster" and you will be feeding it all the time with wood. I rebuilt mine, and no matter what I did, it would still run like a poor mans wood stove. Over night burns were not on this stoves list of chores unless I stoked it at 3 am. It has to do with the poor baffle design and the silly rear draft control. My big Oslo burns the same or less wood than that little Russo did. Dont get me wrong, I guess I just expected too much out of that little smoker........
WoodButcher
Craig has posted a picture of the stove I used to have. You can take the glass off (via the studs) and use a very small rope gasket between the glass and door channel (you can use a small bead of furnace cement, but it will etch the glass and make it messy for future service) But It didnt seem to make a differeance what I did to the glass or the stove....... The only way to fire it hot was to make sure the firebricks on the bottom (over the shaker grate) had spaces between them (if you have the other type of Russo it is a steel plate with holes) And you have to use a fire poker now and then to keep those spaces clean. The stove on the other hand is what Craig calls "cresote monster" and you will be feeding it all the time with wood. I rebuilt mine, and no matter what I did, it would still run like a poor mans wood stove. Over night burns were not on this stoves list of chores unless I stoked it at 3 am. It has to do with the poor baffle design and the silly rear draft control. My big Oslo burns the same or less wood than that little Russo did. Dont get me wrong, I guess I just expected too much out of that little smoker........
WoodButcher
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