Log Load On The Way

Typ0 said:

This morning I decided hell is going to freeze over before I split this log load with an axe. It gets stuck every time and rarely splits the log. UgH.

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You're trying to hand split a log load? Yeah, I don't do that. Cut all the logs to rounds and rent a splitter. You can get a lot done, especially if someone is willing to roll the rounds to your splitting station. Just keep that ram moving.

Don't despair!

Step one is to use a good quality maul, and make sure it's got a decent edge on it. A lot of guys on here like the Fiskars X27 and it seems to work for them. I use a wooden handled Husqvarna splitting maul that I like very much. Others prefer Council Tool, Gransfors Bruks, various Monster Mauls, etc.

If you are simply sticking the maul into the wood without any splitting action whatsoever you need to generate some more speed on the tool or locate your strikes more correctly. One trick to really get the head of the tool cooking is to lower particularly stubborn rounds onto the ground rather than splitting them up on a stump. That extra two feet gives you a lot more swing. Work in shorter stints so you don't fatigue or injure yourself. Try to locate your strikes along existing cracks or with regards to forks and knots, so you're splitting through them with the grain or around them but not so much across them.

It can help to spend some quality time on the couch watching youtube videos of people splitting wood to help study up on different techniques and polish up your swing. Don't forget to have a beer while you're doing this hard work.

Finally, rent a splitter and get that crap done.

Good luck!

my first year burning I hand split about 4.5 cords of maple & oak. I just made a plan of splitting between 10 -15 rounds a day, the pile was done in a few weeks. I new I could borrow a splitter also so if I ran into something that was to hard to split I would just put in the hydro pile. It worked out well for me.

My first year back into burning after a twelve year hiatus, I split over 10 cords by hand. Got pretty damn good and fast at it. Also developed some shoulder problems that still bother me three years later.

Typ0 said:

Well...I'm sawing through the load OK. It's clear to me my sharpening skills need honing!

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This will get you going good...

https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/

The local hardware store here sharpens them for 6 bucks.
As I recall, I can just about get through a log load on one chain, so you must be getting close, right?

Good. Keep going.

I figure on two chains per day, when cutting. If you want to get thru a weekend, and have them sharpened during the week in preparation for the following weekend, best just keep four chains on hand. Once you get a good feel for the saw, you'll notice the chips getting smaller and the work getting harder, about half way thru each day of cutting.

Typ0 said:

yes that's what I am experiencing....and it really shows when I cut into harder woods! Maybe I should get another chain...just the same I have to figure out how to sharpen one!

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Learn to sharpen a chain. You can't go on forever relying on the local shop to do it for you. I like this tool to keep everything the way it should be. The instructions that come with it really suck but there are videos that show how to really use it for good results like this one.

I have the Granberg version of the same file guide.

I touch up a chain at lunch break with a hand file.
I usually have a second chain with me just in case I hit dirt/rock .

I don't take any extra chains with me. I have two saws if one suddenly gets really bad, but otherwise I just take a break & handfile when needed. Only takes a couple minutes - likely not much longer than changing a chain. Usually every second fill up, depending on the wood. There is a big difference in woods though, as mentioned. I found a few big old sugar maple windfalls I've been picking away at on the weekends. One I swear has gotten to be half petrified since it fell - brutally hard stuff, once you get past the first inch or so of punk.

IMHO, it's important to learn how to properly hand file your chain. I have recently switched to using my Dremel with their chainsaw sharpening file and guide - previously I always sharpened by hand. If you have a Dremel, the sharpening kit is $15. That being said, I wouldn't recommend doing this until having a good grasp on sharpening by hand (which generally only takes a dozen or so times to get proficient). Power tools being faster, you can really screw up a tooth in a short amount of time. I find that the Dremel file in the kit isn't super aggressive, which is also good as it will get the chain very sharp but not cut the teeth back too fast. I've seen some people use bench sharpeners and they only get a handful of sharpenings out of their chain before they have to replace them. But maybe they had a cheap bench sharpener. You'll be happier (and safer) with a sharp chain on your saw. Husqvarna and Stihl all have videos on YouTube showing how to sharpen chains and the techniques are applicable to any brand of saw.

Watch some videos on how to sharpen, and you'll be on your way. Don't forget the depth gauges, something too many skip.

Typ0 said:

That's what I was thinking too ... but I need different tools and don't want to spend any more money on this project this year. I need a good splitting maul and some felling wedges. And a peavy which is expensive as well....

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Hit up a few farm auctions. You can get really good tools cheaply. Of course, you can pay a lot for trash, so be careful!