quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Single wall inside the house seems good to me, he just had it going straight up , I think that recommendation is for running extra pipe and who does that?
Minimum temp for chimney outlet?
- Thread starter larboc
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No, many stove companies recommend switching to double wall for runs over 8 ft long. Too cool flue gases = creosote buildup. For cat stoves the recommendation is double-wall all the way.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Grisu
Minister of Fire
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
No it's not just the Roxul at the top and bottom if I have problems I could do the pour in later I think it will be fine. There is a tone of stone and the clay liner looked like new.
As with any new installation just check the liner for buildup once after each cord of wood burned. With a tall exterior chimney there can be significant heat loss by the time the flue gases reach the cap. Your location is unlisted so we don't know what climate or outdoor temps this installation will see. If build up is significant, insulate the liner.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
We don't see below zero very often in the midwest but it happens. I will keep an eye on the liner. I thought the cat burns almost all the smoke so no creosote?
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Quick question the manual states I need 36 inches clearance from the stove pipe yet single wall clearance is stated at 18 inches what gives? I'm just trying to be safe all the other clearances are within manufacturer recommendations.
Not necessarily so, cat stoves can have cooler exhaust temps. Creosote forms when the flue gases drop below condensation point which is about 250F. Burning well seasoned wood will help keep the creosote down. In the dead of winter with a hot fire this should be less of an issue. When it is mild outside and the stove is idling at a low burn, creosote can still form.
The best thing is to monitor it closely for the first year. After that you will have a better handle on how this stove, in this location burning your wood supply will do. Our chimney in a mild climate does pretty well, but the flue, stove, and wood are different. And I don't burn low and slow. Instead I pulse and glide with smaller hot fires and let the mass of the stove keep house temps pleasant. Above 50F a heat pump heats the house exclusively.
What section of the manual's clearances are you concerned about? This? If so it does not apply to a fireplace installation. For more details call Woodstock.
Minimum clearances with no heat shields to unprotected combustible walls: From the back-------------------36”
DanCorcoran
Minister of Fire
Well, live and learn (my first woodstove). The stove dealer/installer recommended the single-wall pipe, which I estimate to be 9 to 9 1/2 feet in length (I'm not there to measure). I've only cleaned it once and got virtually no creosote after two seasons (granted, just occasional use). I do try to burn only very dry wood with a hot fire at least once daily, so that probably helps. I also never burn low and slow...just hot start and reload when secondaries stop. I'll keep an eye out for more creosote, but so far, so good (and the cap appears very clean as well.)
It's not a hard rule. It sounds like good burning and a straight up interior run are working in your favor. Keep the wood dry with a decent fire and you may stay ahead of any problems.
Isaac Carlson
Minister of Fire
We try to keep the stack temps as close to 300 as we can to keep from sending heat up the flue. The old epa stove sent a lot of heat up the chimney, but the new kitchen queen soaks it up and sends it into the room. Sure, it will send the stack temps up if you open the firebox and dump heat, but that is when you are dumping heat, which you try not to do. We burn less wood with the cookstove than we did with the epa stove.
I can assure you I'm using nothing but perfectly seasoned hard maple, red oak, or ironwood and I have a great draft. Stovetop temp is not what I was discussing. The issue lies in the stove being most efficient at lower heat outputs in the 20-40kbtu range (coincidently where the epa efficiency rating test is done), not at the 100+kbtu that it is capable of. It can put out 100kbtu but it isn't designed to effectively recover that heat so the heat goes out the stack, measured with flow rate and temperature. Have you measured your flue exit temperature before telling me I have bad firewood and poor draft?
The " heat with the stove, not the chimney" phrase is cute, but I can assure you that a properly designed solid fuel combustor extracts heat from both. If your primary combustion chamber efficiently combusts the fuel, you can extract heat from the flue gas until you start condensing acids, usually around 340F. I've done research at an engineering level at a power plant which burns green wood chips in a fluidized vibratory bed. Yes it's bigger and the temps are higher, but many of the same principles apply to an epa stove. Problems arise from not burning a hot enough fire in the first place to burn everything up, which is an easy problem to have in the home so I assume stove mfg's have to design the stove to err on the side of wasting heat. Up here though I can't afford the extra wood that the insert would consume in the middle of winter vs. the hot air furnace+un insulated chimney.
FWIW I've been burning for a few days now, using the insert and it's perfect for this shoulder season weather that would plug up the chimney of the big stove.
If it's an interior chimney don't be. If it's on an exterior wall, keep a close eye on it.
larboc, not many folks have a remote wired probe. The temps appear to be what I would roughly expect from this stove at the cap with an interior flue. What was the outside ambient temp when these temps were taken?
Probably between -10 and 20 F most of the time. As low as -30F. the probe is 6" or so down in the flue exit to try to mitigate the effect of outside air temps.
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