Vogelzang Defender

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smoker62

smoker62

Member
Jan 29, 2012
94
Kenosha, WI.
Looking for a stove for my new addition on the trailer / cabin. I have a 40' Crossroads Hampton and am in the process of stick building an addition on to the side. It will be a free standing , not attached wood structure. 14' x 35 long all open with a 3/12 lean to vaulted ceiling . It is butted to the trailer and will have the patio doors removed and the rear bedroom door open to have spaces as one.

I am looking to heat the 500 sq ft or so in the add a room. I have a furnace in the trailer which does a good job but hope to overflow the wood burner so as not to burn so much propane.

I only use it 5-6 times in the winter so no need for a high end stove. Menards has the Vogelzang Defender for 499 right now. Not a great stove but the price seems right for my occasional used. Opinions ??
 
It has an advertised burn time of 6 hours and is a fairly small stove. My point being that this will not bode well for overnight burns (if that is of interest to you). I don't see any reason that if fed regularly that it wouldn't produce sufficient heat for the area in question (add on room).

Other than that, it is an epa cert. stove of entry level, basic operation.

I wouldn't plan on too much natural air movement into the trailer part. Doorways just don't work that well unless you have something moving the air (fan). Even better would be to have some sort of circulation loop created.

Edit: you may want to look into a through wall fan and see if that will work for you in creating a loop. Locate it at the "cold" end of the trailer blowing into the stove room (preferably at the stove end of the add on room).
 
Sounds like a reasonable choice for the area and occasional use, but note that folks frequently get used to that nice warmth and then go larger the next season. The Century FW2600 sold at Menards is another option with a bit larger firebox.
 
smoker62 said:
Menards has the Vogelzang Defender for 499 right now. Not a great stove but the price seems right for my occasional used. Opinions ??
Click to expand...
I have one. Yeah not a great stove, but not bad by any means, especially for the $. BTW, they usually put them on sale for $399 in early/mid October. Heck I have seen 'em for even less than that before at Menards, can't remember...$325...$350? Anyways, I like mine well enough, but it would chew through a load in 3-4 hours when I first got it, I have a 18'-20' chimney though, lotsa draft. It'd probably would run real nice on a 10-12' chimney, which would likely work out well for you. Speaking of chimney, If you need to put one up, Menards usually put those on sale in October too, like $59 for a 3' section of Supervent SS class A, fantastic deal!
Back to burn time, I restricted the air intakes partially to combat the high draft speed on mine and now I can pull off a 6-8 hour burn with hardwood. Read more here https://www.hearth.com/talk/posts/1624431/ It also holds coal MUCH better with a couple inches of ashes left in the bottom...but that cuts into that meager firebox volume...for me if it were half again bigger, say 1.8 CF it'd be about perfect for me...again, for the price anyways. They seem to be built well enough, I've had 'er up just shy of 800* and it basically just shrugged it off, looks/works the same as the day I bought it other than a dirty firebox (and my mods of course ::-))
 
Thanks guys. I did have a thought to run my bathroom Maxi Fan at low speed to draw air from the new room into the trailer. I didn't know they went cheaper than 499. I see them listed online at Northern for like 700. May wait a bit and see if Depot has the Englanders on sale . I see a Pleasant hearth at Menards also . Might do a little research for a midsize bargain so I don't have to upgrade in a year.

Also thinking Englander 13 maybe ??
 
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Decided to opt for the Englander 13 . Just much better history and made in USA.
 
Note the 13NC's R=2.0 hearth requirement when planning. How tall will the flue be on this stove?
 
I have about 7'4" right at my outside bearing wall. I go up from there at a 3/12 pitch. I didnt check top of stove to ceiling clearance but I did see the R2 required hearth. I could move it to one end wall and replan my furniture layout if ceiling clearance is an issue. I plan on a couple sleeper sofas in the room and a big screen tv. If I move it to the gable end wall I can have about 21 more inches from top of stove to ceiling, putting me about 9' ceiling height. When you say flue , do you mean top of stove to ceiling or is flue same as chimney total ??

Ill try and post a pic .
 
smoker62 said:
When you say flue , do you mean top of stove to ceiling or is flue same as chimney total ??
Click to expand...
He means the total height from the stove to the top of the chimney
 
cabin 2.jpg cabin 1.jpg cabin 3.jpg
bholler said:
He means the total height from the stove to the top of the chimney
Click to expand...
OK, sorry, first wood burner . I was a pellet man for 13 years, actually still am at my normal residence. LOL. I can make the chimney as high as I need too , within reason I mean. :)
 
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Yes, the 13 NC will need at least 15ft of flue from stove top to chimney cap to draft well if straight up chimney. It is a decent stove. You should have plenty heat to share with the rest of the home.
 
I was planning on putting it in the 4ft space between the windows where my wife is sweeping. If the ceiling is too close with the thickened hearth of R2 , I could move it to the end wall about centere and gain a bit of height.

The 15' has been confusing as some show the 15 from floor to top of chimney and others show 15' from top of stove .

What do you think would be a better location ? Centered in the long wall where I have the 48" blank between 12 ft of windows on each side or on the end wall where you can see the laser in the back ground ? My trailer patio doors would be opposite end .
 
You will get better performance, particularly in milder weather with a little excess chimney height. The more chimney in the interior the better. That also reduces the amount of expensive chimney pipe. What about up against the mobile wall? is there room there?
 
Good idea , more single wall and less Class A , we will have to rethink our layout when we go up labor day weekend . Thanks for the ideas.

Heres another question, didnt want to start a separate thread. 3-1/2 " of rock wool or mineral wool has an r value of 15 for insulating purposes , also a fire barrier material. If I use 3 - 1/2 " steel studs on edge and fill with mineral wool, , can I just top with cement board and tile for my 2.0 r value needed for an Englander 13 ? Or is this a different value rating ? Do I have to consider the steel stud as a heat transfer tool to the plywood below ?
 
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