best pellet stove pipe???

My vote would be for up and out. Get a better draft that way (usually), which means less chance of smoke in the house in the event of power failure.

If you have a power failure, an you aren't hooked to an instant generator or battery backup, smoke may back into the house when the exhaust fan quits (usually thru the door gasket). My old St. Croix would belch a bit of smoke even at a flicker (or in the split second that it took the battery backup to fully engage during an outage) - and it wasn't a true direct vent since it had about 1.5' of rise. My P61a, downstairs, with 5' of rise before exiting the house has never backup any smoke into the house even at a true power outage and without a battery backup. In such instances, having a good draft is your friend.

I personally believe that up and out helps keep some of the heat from just going out with the gasses that are expelled - it warms up the pipe that is running up, and radiates it back into the room. Is it a ton of heat? No, probably not, but you still recover some of it. I wish I had run my main floor stove to go up and out, but am unwilling (at this point) to drill more holes in my wall and plug up the existing holes.

Ultimately it is up to you, as long as the stove's manual says direct vent is an option.

With the Elena direct vented, I just get a whisper of smoke (like extinguishing a candle). I'm thinking it is the type of exhaust motor used ... ebm papst. But as bogieb said, it depends on the stove and specific venting requirements found in the manual.

Don't discount the cosmetic looks ... you have to live with it as part of your home decor. I'm thinking that's why you ended up with the XXV as the looks appealed to you over the other Harmans.

rdubs20 said:

I'll have to look into the proper ways to vent the harman xxv. I do like the looks of the up and out but just more money and I like the idea of radiant heat

Click to expand...

I wouldn't consider the radiant heat the point of piping inside, you pipe inside if you have to, or if it will be cosmetically unappealing outdoors.

The reason you put a riser is just in case of a power outage, so you don't get smoke inside.

Direct Vent may result in smoke indoors if there is a power outage.

Realistically direct vent is easier to install and CLEAN, and for the $$$ you save on pipe, you can buy a decent back UPS.

If you have reliable electricity that very seldom goes out I would suggest straight out the back with outside fresh air connected to the stove regardless of how you decide the exh will go. I have the pipe in a pipe system going straight out the back and I did get some smoke in the house last year when the power went out. But that only happened twice in 5 years as it is rare we have a power problem. Pellets will sit and smolder a long time so if you have a problem you might pour a glass of water into the pot just to stop the smoldering rather then letting it continue to smoke up the house.

Recommended is up and out. I have that with Direct Temp, but still get some smoke in house with power outage. Again power outages should be considered when purchasing a stove.

Another consideration; IF you ever replace the stove with another model or brand, dollars to donuts the exhaust won't line up. then you have to mickey mouse (like I had to for the St. Croix, and will have to for the PP38 - original stove had much higher outlet) for a small jog - a real PITA. If you go up and out, you will be able to get an adjustable piece of pipe to tie in the system.

Flexible liner is only for use within a masonry chimney typically with an insert. If the exhaust outlet is at a different height, you would have to adjust by using elbows or by moving the thimble. Even among the Harman stoves, there is no uniform outlet height ...

bogieb said:

I personally believe that up and out helps keep some of the heat from just going out with the gasses that are expelled - it warms up the pipe that is running up, and radiates it back into the room. Is it a ton of heat? No, probably not, but you still recover some of it.

Click to expand...

If you use the Selkirk DT, you won't have any radiant heat from it. The cold air is brought in through the exterior pipe that surrounds the interior pipe (exhaust). This is how it preheats the air for combustion. The longer the pipe run, the more you can preheat the combustion air.

Former Farmer said:

If you use the Selkirk DT, you won't have any radiant heat from it. The cold air is brought in through the exterior pipe that surrounds the interior pipe (exhaust). This is how it preheats the air for combustion. The longer the pipe run, the more you can preheat the combustion air.

Click to expand...

That is a good point - I was going with my experience using Duravent with a separate OAK.

Depends upon how much wind would get at it and type of vent cap. Also depends on how it is vented from the stove. If it goes straight out from stove, I think that this would be more of a problem than going up and out.

What is your prevailing wind during the winter? Farmer is right to ask on how it will be vented ... Did you ever decide?

Prevailing winter winds? The turbo cap we have seems to do the trick though...

Can you use the top vent system with the DT?

Reason I was wondering is that the rear hook-up with the DT will keep the OAK out of sight. With the top vent adapter, likely won't be able to hide that connection as it would be above the stove....

rdubs20 said:

well I wanted a P series but my wife loved the looks of the xxv. She won this time

Click to expand...

Same here, went with the top vent option through the roof (log home) but that eliminates the integrated vent and Oak from Selkirk. Top vent option will run you $300-$450 depending on your dealers mark up.