Burnham wood/oil (oil burner replaced w/ propane) CL scrounge/install

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macattack_ga

macattack_ga

Burning Hunk
Jan 2, 2013
127
Fairfax, VA
Found this on CL. Couldn't pass it up. Haven't even figure out how to get it off the trailer.

I am thinking about installing in detached garage (maybe in a to-be-created corner room).
House and garage currently have forced air oil/propane heating. Not above installing cast iron radiators.

Suggestions welcomed.

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Wow, I have never seen the combo, I have the wood version. Hopefully you got the 27psi safety relief valve that floods the firebox. I haven't been able to find a replacement. The burnham heat dump valve is wired opposite from current boilers. The thermal switch closes when it overheats and there needs to be power to open the valve. Its worth switching to a normally open valve that needs power to close and rewiring the thermal switch to open when it overheats.
 
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It came with newer safety valves on both sides and one does dump into the firebox. A dump zone is in the plans but no valves for that yet. Chain hoist from the 14" beam, with 4x4 helper posts on either side, and onto dolly is next step (tonight before the rain!)uploadfromtaptalk1441804997653.jpguploadfromtaptalk1441805044269.jpg
 
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My parents have a Kerr boiler that dumps into the firebox too. I think if I had one, I would change that. They had an off-season problem once with a leaky relief valve that made a heck of a mess in the firebox, and then onto the basement floor.

Good luck - looks like a beast.
 
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The rotary coal grate was destroyed on mine when I got it. I replaced it with a fixed grate made out of bar stock. I still haven't found a good source for the baffle plates that slide in above the burn chamber. I can use standard plate but they warp.
 
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uploadfromtaptalk1441935682446.jpg
 
macattack_ga said:
It came with newer safety valves on both sides and one does dump into the firebox. A dump zone is in the plans but no valves for that yet. Chain hoist from the 14" beam, with 4x4 helper posts on either side, and onto dolly is next step (tonight before the rain!)View attachment 161450View attachment 161451
Click to expand...
Hey mac, not to derail but do you have any more pics of those wood rack posted here anywhere? I built something very similar last year...can roll 'em right into the furnace room.
I take it you "stole" this boiler? ::-)
 
racks use exactly 4x8' 2x4s and maybe 40 screws.
cut 6x4' / 2x22" / 4x12" / cut 22" in half w/ 45 degree
nothing left but saw dust and enough to clean up the mill sawn ends
pretty sturdy. shown holding chunks from hand-split 30" white oak rounds that still need to be run though the splitter.

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Rigged it up like putting a ribbon on a Christmas present and got it off the trailer and on to the dolly with minimal sheet metal stress.


Seller knew what he had (retired master plumber) but no market for them here.
He told me the propane burner would cost what I paid for the whole setup (included some stove pipe too).

Any thoughts on plan below? (on demand pumps)
Would like to shut off the storage if the gas kicked on. Gas for house and system freeze protection.

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Drawing2.jpg


Aq1 (Controls Pump at Boiler)
No need to run pump w/ cold water
< 140 P1 Off
> 150 P1 On

Aq2 (Controls Damper for wood)
Over firing protection
> 200 D1 Off (closed)
< 190 D1 On (open)

Aq3 (Controls Pump at Zones)
No need to run pump w/ cold water
< 140 P2 Off
> 150 P2 On

Air1 (Thermostat Basement Radiators)
Traditional Adjustable Thermostat
< 70 V1 open
< 72 V1 closed

Air2 (Thermostat HX & Forced Air)
Traditional Adjustable Thermostat
< 72 V1 open / F1 on
< 74 V1 closed / F2 off

V4 (Dump Zone)
Prevents over firing on power loss
System Powered closed
System No Powered open


Haven't figured out how to incorporate the gas/oil burner

Air3 (Sets preference for Gas/Oil Burner & freeze protection)
????
 
your going to need to mix down temps for the radiant, that will need another circulator, and a mixing valve for the simplest no-frills install (usually works well for garage/shop radiant jobs.

Also B1 and B2 I assume are expansion tanks? If they are you only need one and it should be before P2. The entire system is connected so you only need one tank. Size it according to the total volume of water and the temp rises in the entire system. Generally 60 to 190F temp swings can be expected for an entire system, for a total of 150 degreesF.

TS
 
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Thanks!
So removing B2. Makes sense.

So if I use old cast iron radiators I would need to mix down the temps? I thought they would take the higher temps.
I wish I could do in floor radiant, and would mix, but the ceiling is low enough already... and I'm not that tall :)
 
My bad, i read radiant from radiators.... you can run radiators at full boiler temp (160-190). They will work well with lower storage tamps if oversized which is not a problem finding huge radiators.

TS
 
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