Wood Gun E100

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sgrenier35

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Jan 8, 2010
59
I am looking at getting a wood gun E 100 boiler and am wondering how much room i need around the boiler for cleaning access and such. Also how far does the cyclone blower stick off of the side of the boielr? Thanks
 
I am looking at getting a wood gun E 100 boiler and am wondering how much room i need around the boiler for cleaning access and such. Also how far does the cyclone blower stick off of the side of the boielr? Thanks

You will need a fair amount to the front of the boiler to operate and do the cleanings.

Access to the rear is very convenient, but not 100% necessary.

I don't have exact dimensions for the cyclone, but my memory would estimate it at ~2' off the left side.

The right side has no function or benefit to being accessible.

Here are pics of my E180:

http://s878.photobucket.com/user/avc8130/library/Boiler

ac
 
Cleaning from the back can be done in a tight area(as long as you meet code for distance to combustables) but you would want to allow sufficient area to be comfortable when the day comes that you pull the fan off to clean the heat exchanger(annually or even e/o year). Most of my weekly cleaning is done from the front of the boiler.
I'm guessing that I have about 3' at the rear of the boiler but you could get away with tighter quarters. I'll measure the cyclone for you and get back on that but again I'm guessing it's about 2'. Keep in mind my boiler is 5+ years old and I'm not sure if anything here has changed.
 
Just measured the cyclone, you will need 20" min. Again though, keep in mind that the pipe will get very hot and you need min. clearance to combustables to meet code.
 
Be careful of those Wood Gun owners. You never know....
 
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LOFL! Always with the guns and politics! LOFL
How da hell are ya AC?

Original poster, keep as much room around your boiler as you possibly can. Always handy to have the room.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hobbyheater
LOFL! Always with the guns and politics! LOFL
How da hell are ya AC?

Original poster, keep as much room around your boiler as you possibly can. Always handy to have the room.

Good, good!

I'm waiting to get the instruction from the Col to light up the WG for the year. Had a false alarm a week back, now it's hot and sunny again. I don't think I'll be touching it off until Halloween this year!

Did a full clean up of the heat exchanger and chimney connector. I agree 100%. Leave room if you have it. If not, you will make do, but why stuggle?

Here are some ideas of my placement to help the OP:





Lots of room to work.

ac
 
I am looking at getting a wood gun E 100 boiler and am wondering how much room i need around the boiler for cleaning access and such. Also how far does the cyclone blower stick off of the side of the boielr? Thanks


sgrenier35,

You may want to think about any additional plumbing you may want in the future. We do not know what your plans are, but if you think you may add anything on down the road, you may want to plumb a place up with a valve and then a cap so you could add on when you get to that point. (examples may be an indirect hot water heater so you can use your wood boiler to heat all your DHW, or you may plan to heat your garage or an addition to the home, etc.)

Good luck, ask lots of questions here, these guys can be very, very helpful. And get ahead on your wood supply so you are burning dry wood!
 
Thanks for the info . The wood gun is going to replace my Buderus boiler that cracked last winter. I was trying to figure out if it would fit in the same space or not. Looks like I may have to move some walls or something.
 
Thanks for the info . The wood gun is going to replace my Buderus boiler that cracked last winter. I was trying to figure out if it would fit in the same space or not. Looks like I may have to move some walls or something.

Post some pics and dimensions of what you have to work with. This forum is a GREAT resource to sort these things out.

ac
 
I am looking at getting a wood gun E 100 boiler and am wondering how much room i need around the boiler for cleaning access and such. Also how far does the cyclone blower stick off of the side of the boielr? Thanks[/qu
Good, good!

I'm waiting to get the instruction from the Col to light up the WG for the year. Had a false alarm a week back, now it's hot and sunny again. I don't think I'll be touching it off until Halloween this year!

Did a full clean up of the heat exchanger and chimney connector. I agree 100%. Leave room if you have it. If not, you will make do, but why stuggle?

Here are some ideas of my placement to help the OP:





Lots of room to work.

ac
Do you know of anyone who can hook up an E100 pipe work in Ct.?
 
AHS the Wood Gun folks may have a local recomendation for you, but it's a very basic installation that any "boiler guy" should be able to handle depending on what it's replacing.
 
I would although I don't have any myself - yet. Gasifier has about 440 gal. I think and he's the only (Wood gun guy) here that I know has any storage. I'm fine in the winter heating temps but in the "shoulder" season(s) I would benefit the most from some storage. The space it requires is me & a lot of folks problem.
 
I'm no heating expert at all, but I would think that adding storage would complicate the installation for your average "boiler guy" to the point that either I would want to hire out the design or get a lot of advice here from the folks that have been through this or have done this in their business. No "dis" to the "average boiler guy" at all and I may be way off base with this comment but your "normal" oil/gas boiler does not have storage.
 
The storage works nicely, especially during the shoulder seasons. I wish I had more storage, but everything is working fine so I am not going to mess with it.
 
Hi so just curious how your install went and how its working for you?

~ Phil
 
Install went ok just a little expensive. First of all the installer went and turned up the aquastat to 200 degrees and cooked my domestic hot water heater thermostat/gas control valve. He also installed a modine heater for extra control. Modine heater was constantly going on because it was set so high, so burning all the wood quick, woodgun was never shutting off. I went and reset the aquastat to 190 degrees and so far looks pretty good. I'm wondering if the modine heater is a waste? It does not kick on now since I turned down the aquastat. I do like the woodgun so far better than the country wood stove insert that I have. Less work
 
Install went ok just a little expensive. First of all the installer went and turned up the aquastat to 200 degrees and cooked my domestic hot water heater thermostat/gas control valve. He also installed a modine heater for extra control. Modine heater was constantly going on because it was set so high, so burning all the wood quick, woodgun was never shutting off. I went and reset the aquastat to 190 degrees and so far looks pretty good. I'm wondering if the modine heater is a waste? It does not kick on now since I turned down the aquastat. I do like the woodgun so far better than the country wood stove insert that I have. Less work

Hi so the modine heater is basically an heat coil with a fan on it, was it put on to prevent it from over temping? I have an old conventional wood boiler which does the job but eats wood and creates a lot of creosote. Im thinking of upgrading to a wood gun because it doesnt require storage and can completely shut down they say when heat is not called for.

I have an over temp aquastat set to about 195 deg and my circulator pump is set to about 185 degs. If for some reason the wood boiler gets up to temp and the circulator pump comes on but no zones are calling for heat and the boiler temp gets up to 195, then before the pressure valve blows the second over temp aquastat will turn on a over temp zone (my hot tub) and prevent the boiler from over temping. I think that is what your installer was trying to do but prob either it doesnt have its own aquastat or its set to low.

Ive been told that the wood gun will shut down and kill the fire before it over temps so turning the stat down should be all you need but check to see how the modine is set up on the control side to see what causes it to kick on.

Im curious on what your using for wood and how its running, Ive read they do not like too small of sticks of wood. Some owners say they HUFF ie are needing of more air and are starving so it huffs. THey say its caused by too much surface area of the wood being burned. Also some talk about difficulties keeping the wood burning to fuel the lower primary chamber, and have to stack wood "just so" to keep it burning. Are you seeing any of those issues?

Thanks ~ Phil
 
Hi so the modine heater is basically an heat coil with a fan on it, was it put on to prevent it from over temping? I have an old conventional wood boiler which does the job but eats wood and creates a lot of creosote. Im thinking of upgrading to a wood gun because it doesnt require storage and can completely shut down they say when heat is not called for.

I have an over temp aquastat set to about 195 deg and my circulator pump is set to about 185 degs. If for some reason the wood boiler gets up to temp and the circulator pump comes on but no zones are calling for heat and the boiler temp gets up to 195, then before the pressure valve blows the second over temp aquastat will turn on a over temp zone (my hot tub) and prevent the boiler from over temping. I think that is what your installer was trying to do but prob either it doesnt have its own aquastat or its set to low.

Ive been told that the wood gun will shut down and kill the fire before it over temps so turning the stat down should be all you need but check to see how the modine is set up on the control side to see what causes it to kick on.

Im curious on what your using for wood and how its running, Ive read they do not like too small of sticks of wood. Some owners say they HUFF ie are needing of more air and are starving so it huffs. THey say its caused by too much surface area of the wood being burned. Also some talk about difficulties keeping the wood burning to fuel the lower primary chamber, and have to stack wood "just so" to keep it burning. Are you seeing any of those issues?

Thanks ~ Phil
I
 
I am burning maple and oak in various sizes. Some are really small pieces with no issues. All my wood is seasoned 2 years plus. I don't hear any huffing. The only sound I hear is the sound of the gasification burning. It also gets up to temperature with ease. I have been cleaning the gasification chambers once a week. I have one issue with it. It stinks up the house. I think it's from some of the wood that I'm burning. Other than that it's fine
 
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