Chimney Liner???????????????s

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bfbill650i

bfbill650i

New Member
Jun 23, 2015
17
Port-Daniel Quebec
I have finally decided on how to proceed with my home heating. After much research I have talked to my stepbrother and he swears by his Osburn 2300 and his 1600 together they heat his 180+ year old farm house with very little (or none in places!) insulation! The old house is atleast 1200 square feet per floor x2 that's 2400sf!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He uses an exterior insulated chimney refered to here as a "Selkirk chimney" that's is rated 2100 series.

Now as for me I bought a 2400 Osburn at a realllllllllllllllllllllly good cost along with a ridged stainless steel liner and adapter kit to go with it (cap, straps etc.) The liner came in 36'' lengths and 3 48"s, on their own they are not heavy but when they line my 8x10" masonary chimney flue I fear their combined (attached together) weight will be signifigant. My chimney continues to the floor with a small clean out there, but my stove pipes exit through the chimney at 7 feet or so. I was wondering will the liner need support below the liner in the chimney to the floor???????????..

chimney +- 21 feet
liner will be at least 15-20 feet

IF you guys think I will need to install support(s) .............. what and where??
 
Port Daniel! I am in Gaspé!

Your 2400 will heat well. That being said, it all depends on what you are trying to heat. I am sure it will make a huge difference. The 2400 is a beast! That being said, I hope you are already on top of a wood source. EPA stoves do not like wet wood. I have found that lots of people around here think they know what seasoned wood is...and then they tell me that they cut it in July and burn it in October. Hardwoods take 2-3 years to dry (maple especially).

I have never heard of a liner that comes in 36 inch lengths. Normally that is a class A chimney length. That being said, I do not have much experience with liners so I will wait for others to chime in...

Enjoy la Baie des Chaleurs on this labour day weekend!

Andrew
 
Typically, liners that go inside a masonry chimney are supported by the top plate that you install at the top of the chimney and connect your cap to. From what you have described, it sounds to me like your stove is going to sit outside your fireplace on the hearth and the stove pipe will go up and make a 90 degree turn and go through a thimble into the chimney. Is that correct? Also, are you planning to insulate your liner? Many here (myself included) would highly recommend it - especially if your chimney is on an outside wall. I would also recommend a block-off plate inside your fireplace to help prevent heat from escaping the room and going up the flue.
 
BigCountryNY said:
Typically, liners that go inside a masonry chimney are supported by the top plate that you install at the top of the chimney and connect your cap to. From what you have described, it sounds to me like your stove is going to sit outside your fireplace on the hearth and the stove pipe will go up and make a 90 degree turn and go through a thimble into the chimney. Is that correct? Also, are you planning to insulate your liner? Many here (myself included) would highly recommend it - especially if your chimney is on an outside wall. I would also recommend a block-off plate inside your fireplace to help prevent heat from escaping the room and going up the flue.
Click to expand...

You are correct , but the chimney is in the exact center of the house. This chimney supports 3 separate flues , 1 fireplace (leaving it alone) and two wood stove inlets in the basement (using one) the entire chimney is huge! It comes in at roughly 10 feet by 4 feet! No I don't plan on having it insulated for at least the first year. What would I gain from insulating and how?? I am just scared to have the liner tumble the unsupported 7 or so feet is all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (as for the block off plate in the fireplaces flue , it has one and it is worth it's weight in gold , helping ALOT!!)
 
Sounds to me like you're talking about using class a stainless pipe as a liner? Or am I reading it wrong?

Is your liner have about an inch thick wall or is it more like a heavy duty dryer vent?

Got any pics? I think if you clear up what the product is exactly, you'll have better luck getting a clear answer in here.
 
What you have is rigid SS chimney liner. It's not class A chimney like others are suspecting. It's very common on older installs, flexible liners are more common these days. And this is not a fireplace, so there is no block-off plate..

As for insulating it: the insulation is important to protect your home in the event of a flue fire. Most chimneys do not have proper clearance between combustible building materials and the masonry structure. If your clay flue is in good condition then I would probably not worry about insulation considering it's an interior chimney.

The rigid liner sections will get attached with SS rivets and lowered down with the 2 piece Tee attached to the first section. Then the whole apparatus is supported from the top with a clamp that is supported by a SS plate. Get your Tee snout attached and coming through the thimble straight. Then it gets a storm collar and a cap after the liner cut to length.
 
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webby3650 said:
What you have is rigid SS chimney liner. It's not class A chimney like others are suspecting. It's very common on older installs, flexible liners are more common these days. And this is not a fireplace, so there is no block-off plate..
As for insulating it: the insulation is important to protect your home in the event of a flue fire. Most chimneys do not have proper clearance between combustible building materials and the masonry structure. If your clay flue is in good condition then I would probably not worry about insulation considering it's an interior chimney.
The rigid liner sections will get attached with SS rivets and lowered down with the 2 piece Tee attached to the first section. Then the whole apparatus is supported from the top with a clamp that is supported by a SS plate. Get your Tee snout attached and coming through the thimble straight. Then it gets a storm collar and a cap after the liner cut to length.
Click to expand...

See, I knew someone with more experience would chime in :)
Andrew
 
Yep after much digging I found out its a "Versa-liner" by Selkirk.....................My chimney is like 4 feet thick and once my liner is lowered in position and centered the tee will still be like 2 feet away!! And I still will feel better if there was some support other than only up top!
 
bfbill650i said:
Yep after much digging I found out its a "Versa-liner" by Selkirk.....................My chimney is like 4 feet thick and once my liner is lowered in position and centered the tee will still be like 2 feet away!! And I still will feel better if there was some support other than only up top!
Click to expand...
Feel free to add additional support. With a 4' thick chimney I'm very curious how you intend to do this. The clamp and top plate is more than adequate, it's worked fine for 30 years or so..
 
webby3650 said:
Feel free to add additional support. With a 4' thick chimney I'm very curious how you intend to do this. The clamp and top plate is more than adequate, it's worked fine for 30 years or so..
Click to expand...

I'm curious too..............................................................that's why I posted here , people here know about this stuff more than me!!
 
bfbill650i said:
I'm curious too..............................................................that's why I posted here , people here know about this stuff more than me!!
Click to expand...
Well, there is no other option. Once the tee is through the thimble and it supported with the clamp it's very stable.
 
I'm gonna take pics its hard to explain. The stove does sit below the exit for my chimney the stove pipes DO NOT pass through a thimble but connect DIRECTLY to the steel ring built in to the chimney. The liner will not be insulated this year , we'll see. Since there is no thimble theres no clamp but I plan on making a support out of sheet metal and good ole Gaspesian blood sweat and tears! The liner came with SS rivets AND I'll also use drilllpoint screws in order to fasten the lengths together. The previous owner of this house made a stainless steel chimney top so it may prove to be of use. Like I said pics will follow!
 
It really doesn't sound like you'll have a proper connection at the thimble, some pics would be helpful.
The support clamp goes at the top of the chimney, not at the thimble.
 
webby3650 said:
It really doesn't sound like you'll have a proper connection at the thimble, some pics would be helpful.
The support clamp goes at the top of the chimney, not at the thimble.
Click to expand...
Once I post pics you'll see what I mean..................(there never was a thimble , there are no cumbustables to go through)..................
I'll post pics...............!
 
bfbill650i said:
Once I post pics you'll see what I mean..................(there never was a thimble , there are no cumbustables to go through)..................
I'll post pics...............!
Click to expand...
Good, a thimble in a masonry chimney should have no combustibles in the vicinity. I look forward to the pics.
 
webby3650 said:
Good, a thimble in a masonry chimney should have no combustibles in the vicinity. I look forward to the pics.
Click to expand...

I know I promised pics BUT 2 of my brother-in-laws put the liner in and connected the stove on Saturday past. Nice for me not 4 pics!!
I just made an air fire in order to not have the first fire when its cold, but we have to get out cause the new stove stinks so bad! I find the fire to be going nicely with the stove door open a crack but act like its being smothered when the door is closed , I have the draft control all the way right on the biggest hole I assume this to be wide open................no? The stove has not yet went in to secondary burn mode as I don't see it in the stove and smoke is coming out the chimney, Is this normal ??? (could my draft control be messed-up?) I'll try and post pics of the final product!! Once this is figured out!!

P.S. not a roaring fire!!
2400 Osburn pedistal model no OAK installed
18 foot flue 1 90 degree turn (tee)
6 feet or so of black stove pipe with 2 45 degree bends
Yes the wood is as dry as possible!

THANKS
 
A couple of questions. How how is your stove top? If the fire isn't that hot, that's likely why you aren't getting secondary burns. Do you know what the moisture content of your wood is? The reason you are likely getting smoke is that either the fire isn't hot enough and/or the wood isn't dry enough. With the door open are you getting smoke leaking into the room?

Others may have additional questions, but based on what you have described those are the questions I would want to answer first.
 
I just did the preliminary firing up of the stove for the season the other day (had to scratch the itch). All winter my stove runs great, but since it was only 48 outside and 62 inside, it didn't draft worth a damn and was a battle to get up to temp. Once it got hot, it drafted okay, but then it was time to open all the windows cause it was 80 inside...
My bet is temp, not familiar with your stove, but if you're running the controls right,(owners manual should tell you where to set things) it's most likely due to air temp.
 
Thanx guys it was warm out 'bout 12 celcius. I'm chalking it up to not cold enough out and not a good fire!
 
If you want to get a good roar in these temperatures, try to find some piece of a pallet to burn. It will get nice and hot fast.

FYI, the stovetop temperatures will need to reach at least 500F to see secondary combustion (at least based on my experience with my 2300).

A
 
Yeah I made a rip-roaring fire since it was cold out and no infant here. The secondary burn was in full effect!! (sorry no pics yet)
I am learning how this stove works..............so far I've only burnt soft wood but all the wood burnt to very fine ashes. Impressed so far!
 
Like any stove, there is a learning curve.

For the 2300, I leave it open full throttle for about 20-30 minutes. Then I start closing off the air. Normally for a nice cruise with great secondaries, I leave it open 1/8th or 1/4 depending on draft.

You are going to love it!

Andrew
 
When I first made my fire I found that once the stove door was closed with the draft wide open the fire died too much for me. So I left the door open a crack and fuddled around splitting kindling for the next fire etc. This went on about 15 mins , when it was burning good I shut the door and left the draft open only to return in about 30 mins later to all the wood in the stove burning well then I shut the draft to about 1/4 open and it burned all night with lots of coals in the AM (roughly 9 hours) , but I let it just die since the temp in the house was very acceptable.
 
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