Have a crush on my new chainsaw...

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nola mike

nola mike

Minister of Fire
Sep 13, 2010
928
Richmond/Montross, Virginia
My FIL recently gave me his old John Deere 50V saw, which is a rebranded Echo CS452VL. Probably from the late 70's, he only used it a handful of times. It came complete with a tank full of 20+ year old gas. The carb looked like it was perfectly preserved in varnish :) Couldn't find a rebuild kit, but noticed it looked like a typical walbro carb. Sure enough, I was able to find a metering diagram and fuel pump screen that fit, and it's running great now. Didn't even replace the plug. It starts within a couple of pulls, and just feels like a quality piece of equipment. It's a 45cc saw with a 16" bar.
My question is whether I should keep the saw, or sell it while it's working and get a newer model. I'd at least like to get an 18" bar (if I even can? I haven't looked). I'm concerned about a couple of things:
1) Points ignition. I don't know how hard it will be to get new points for a 35 year old saw, and don't know how reliable this ignition is in a saw.
2) Safety: My biggest concern. No safety chain, and no chain brake. I know a lot/most don't use a safety chain, but I like the piece of mind. Bigger concern is the chain brake. How important is this? I've never actually had a saw kick back on me, but don't want to find out.
 
I can't answer the ignition question, but in my opinion a chain brake is mandatory. I've had my brake engage a few times. I'd rather be safe than sorry. The inertia activated brakes are instantaneous which can be a life or limb saver. Also I don't use a safety chain. They cut slower aren't as aggressive, but help keep it from jumping around. There good for someone who doesn't cut a lot or someone who is new.
 
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Probably like my old heavy Poulan/Partner 65cc saw that can rip a Pontiac in half and I am torn about selling it. Heavy SOB but tons of torque that the new high revving saws don't have. And it would probably blow up the first time the buyer started it after all these years of flawless cutting and I would have to deal with it/him.

But the old saws bring a nice price these days. Why, I cannot figure out.

On the chain brake thing, all I can say is I have never had one activated in 40 years of using saws. Could happen tomorrow though...
 
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You can get Oregon 72 Vanguard green chain but I sure wouldn't - cuts like crap. And maybe they've fixed it...but at one time, the chain rakers were so close to the cutter that you couldn't get a 7/32 file in there.
I'd sell it - a John Deere will bring 2x the price of an Echo. Hey wait, this is an Echo!
 
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I haven't spent time with any of the vintage Deere or Echo saws, old Homelites being a lot more common in my area. A a quick eBay search of completed listings on eBay, which supposedly goes back 90 days, says the price range for a running 50v is $60-$100. You wouldn't exactly be taking food from your kids' mouths if you were to hang onto it sentimentally.

nola mike said:
I'd at least like to get an 18" bar
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You could pick up a clean Stihl 026, with chain brake and electronic ignition (and almost 2# lighter to boot) for about $200. Given your mechanical bent, you could grab one that needs attention for substantially less than that. I found mine on Craigslist, disassembled but complete, needing only fuel and impulse hoses and a new base gasket, for $40. Not that you can do that every day...

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If its in good shape a JD collector might want it, and that's a premium on your price. But also, it fired right up after 20 years and a carb rebuild, so it might be a good backup saw to keep handy.

There are probably better options for a regular use saw, but I say keep it unless you have a pile of other saws already.
 
I have an old Echo 510 EVL that I inherited from my FIL when he passed away years ago. I finally stopped using it when a retired DEC Forest Ranger friend read me chapter and verse on the dangers of using a saw without a chain brake. I still have it and occasionally break it out for some cutting jobs and it starts every time. Great saws.
 
You got me Monaco, I'm totally making all of this up. Suckers! ;)
Leaning towards selling the saw and getting a new one. If my concern is safety (it is primarily), then ever using it isn't a good idea. Wondering if I could get $100-150 for it in the condition it's in. Hesitant about buying used--doesn't seem like you get much of a discount, and after replacing chain, bar, carb kits, whatever, you probably aren't too far ahead of the game. Looks like a Husqvarna 445 is the best bang for the buck. I don't cut more than 1, maybe 2 cord/year. Any thoughts of course welcomed...
And as reference, I'm coming from a Poulan Pro 295 that I bought used 8 years ago--so I'm guessing a pair of scissors would be an upgrade.
 
nola mike said:
You got me Monaco, I'm totally making all of this up. Suckers! ;)
Leaning towards selling the saw and getting a new one. If my concern is safety (it is primarily), then ever using it isn't a good idea. Wondering if I could get $100-150 for it in the condition it's in. Hesitant about buying used--doesn't seem like you get much of a discount, and after replacing chain, bar, carb kits, whatever, you probably aren't too far ahead of the game. Looks like a Husqvarna 445 is the best bang for the buck. I don't cut more than 1, maybe 2 cord/year. Any thoughts of course welcomed...
And as reference, I'm coming from a Poulan Pro 295 that I bought used 8 years ago--so I'm guessing a pair of scissors would be an upgrade.
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You will get lots of saw opinions. Some folks like the Husky 555, I would lean towards the Echo 590 timberwolf. For the amount you are looking to cut go pick some up and see what you like.

It would depend on what you have for local dealers IMO.
 
1-2 cords/year is light duty. Unless it's all 36" rounds, any properly running, sharp cutter saw will do it. Going from PP295 to Husky 445 - don't see much improvement there. Unless PP295 is worn out - low compression, carb dirty with stiff diaphragms, fuel lines bad, worn sprocket, etc . Both are homeowner clamshells at ~45cc. Bargain in homeowner class is PP5020AV at $140 refurb. Pro built class bargain is Echo CS-590 at $399 new. Dolmar 421 is a well respected pro saw in the $350 range.
 
I miss the old, blue Homelite my father had. Free work-out every time you lifted it, and the blue smoke cloud kept the bugs away...
 
Knots said:
I miss the old, blue Homelite my father had. Free work-out every time you lifted it, and the blue smoke cloud kept the bugs away...
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I recently got my Homelite 1050 Super Automatic (almost 23 pounds dry, plus a very heavy bar) going, and did several hours of milling with it. It was fun, but I'm now somewhat guiltily flirting with an 066 and a 394XP as possible alternatives.
 
Jon1270 said:
I recently got my Homelite 1050 Super Automatic (almost 23 pounds dry, plus a very heavy bar) going, and did several hours of milling with it. It was fun, but I'm now somewhat guiltily flirting with an 066 and a 394XP as possible alternatives.
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I have that same saw!

It's in pieces on my bench.... Has been for two years now [emoji45]
 
Clarkbug said:
I have that same saw!

It's in pieces on my bench.... Has been for two years now [emoji45]
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Mine was practically running when I got it. I replaced part of the fuel line, and it fired up. Adjusted the low speed needle a bit, refiled the chain to ripping angles, and put it to work. Fun, but a heck of a workout.
 
Jon1270 said:
Mine was practically running when I got it. I replaced part of the fuel line, and it fired up. Adjusted the low speed needle a bit, refiled the chain to ripping angles, and put it to work. Fun, but a heck of a workout.
Click to expand...

Im worried trying to start the thing... Its a beast of a saw. It came with an 18" bar, but I also have a NIB 36" windsor for it... Want to fix it up and save it for those times when you just need a really big saw.
 
BrotherBart said:
Probably like my old heavy Poulan/Partner 65cc saw that can rip a Pontiac in half and I am torn about selling it. Heavy SOB but tons of torque that the new high revving saws don't have. And it would probably blow up the first time the buyer started it after all these years of flawless cutting and I would have to deal with it/him.

But the old saws bring a nice price these days. Why, I cannot figure out.

On the chain brake thing, all I can say is I have never had one activated in 40 years of using saws. Could happen tomorrow though...
Click to expand...
Well, you didn't say Pontiac Firechief or DeSoto...;lol
 
Clarkbug said:
Im worried trying to start the thing... Its a beast of a saw. It came with an 18" bar, but I also have a NIB 36" windsor for it... Want to fix it up and save it for those times when you just need a really big saw.
Click to expand...

I wasn't sure what to expect from it either. It was loud, but not difficult to control. It's got a lot of power, but neither the peak RPM nor the quick acceleration of the newer generations, and all that mass prevents it from feeling jumpy. Don't be afraid. I mean, don't risk kickback with it either, of course, but don't be scared.
 
The PP, *when it's working*, is fine. It is no doubt worn, but more than that it's unreliable. Power wise it's plenty. Thought the 445 would be a lateral move power wise, but quality and overall feel would no doubt be better. I'm seeing a refurb husky 455 at northern tool for $319, which seems pretty good.
 
Well, got antsy. Found a Husqvarna 450 20" rancher manufacturer refurb for $267 shipped. Seemed like a good deal. Figured I could probably sell it for close to that if I hate it.
 
You should do fine with a Husky 450. If it's too slow in bigger wood, get an 18" or even 16" bar. If the PP295 is unreliable but still good power - think fuel delivery: Pickup, fuel lines, purge bulb (if equipped), carb cleaning and diaphragm/gasket replacement. Although, with the cheap price of AM carbs and no guarantee that a cleaning and carb kit will work, I rarely buy a kit anymore - just get a new carb.
 
dougand3 said:
You should do fine with a Husky 450. If it's too slow in bigger wood, get an 18" or even 16" bar. If the PP295 is unreliable but still good power - think fuel delivery: Pickup, fuel lines, purge bulb (if equipped), carb cleaning and diaphragm/gasket replacement. Although, with the cheap price of AM carbs and no guarantee that a cleaning and carb kit will work, I rarely buy a kit anymore - just get a new carb.
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Yeah, I already got a new carb for it after countless rebuilds of the old one. It worked for like an hour. Also replaced the ign coil. Have already replaced the lines, filter, no purge bulb. Might just keep it as a spare once I get it running right again.
 
You've done all that...I'd bet there is some P, R, and/or C scoring. These models are probably worth a $20 P&R kit if cyl is clean, but I won't go as far as a $40 cylinder. Hey Ebay! Here come some parts!
 
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