Max Caddy combo Electric installation

Great install. Are those cables actually draped onto the chimney pipe in the first pic? I like the permanent manometer.

I'm not as familiar with the Max Caddy control system and temps, but a couple thoughts...

It might take a couple fires for the moisture to bake out of the firebrick. Until then, you might get low temperatures and/or they might drop off fast.

Also, make sure your baffle is towards the rear of the furnace.

Others might correct me on that, though.

Nice unit.. A couple of things though, not a good idea to have the flex connector on the supply there. The tape on the joints (may) give off an odor and that is kind of a long horizontal run on the flue. That could create draft issues. Nice looking unit and install otherwise.

With the damper full open, it will send more heat out the flue. It will still produce heat, but not as much. Once loaded on a good coalbed, it should cruise with minimal air and produce a good bit of heat. You more than likely won't see output temps of a gas furnace, but you don't want too either. Your furnace will produce a lower heat, but run longer than a conventional furnace. I worried about ours for the first year and found that 100-105 degrees will more than heat the home when cold. You'll find when it gets cold and you push the furnace, it should more than exceed your expectations.

Howdy David! Lookin good.
So did you get that chimney lined liked you talked about back in the spring?
What are your draft and static pressure #s like?
I wouldn't think it is cold enough yet to have great draft, especially after the intake damper is closed for awhile.

David_QC said:

Yes it is lined ! I went with the not insulated finally... Draft is much better, it was originally too high; from 0.13 to 0.06 with draft controller fully close to fully open. Now it is 0.08 to i guess 0.00..

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I'm confused...the draft went down with a liner? It should have went up...way up.
Do you switch the tubes (between "hi" and "lo") on the Dwyer when you go between checking pressure and vacuum (draft)? I do, it keeps the fluid to the right of the zero, a lot easier to read and much more range

Is the damper on the Max Caddy controlled by a computer ?

I'd call sbi, I have a max caddy too btw

David_QC said:

It is the thermostat that control the damper, there is no advanced control with damper. Damper motor is a On/Off (full open or full close) actuator. The controller you see with temperature reading is basically for fan speed based on plenum temperature. Looks nice, but it give less adjustments on start temp. setpoint and the stop temp. setpoint than normal furnace like the Caddy version. For example, I would set my Start at 150F and Stop at 110F, but with the fancy controller I can't do that, I can only change the Start point and it stop 20 degree below the start, which make it start/stop cycling... that span is not configurable...

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It make you wonder why PSG hasn't come out with a furnace that is fully run by a computer / PLC. They could have the computer run the damper and a DC motor for the blower. Maybe the price point would be too high.

I think the seperate damper control makes the most sense over a Plc setup . The furnace may know a set parameter of temperature to activate the damper but it can never really know if your house is comfortable in the real world ,the only way I'd say that could be close is by it being activated by a seperate digital thermostat upstairs in the living area away from the unit , plus you start adding extra complication to the furnace and it's more of a chance for problems and cost

I relocated my rti probe on the side and moved it up so it's only about an inch from the front of the plenum .this is hottest spot in the plenum . By doing this it thinks it's hotter than it really is basically It tricks the PC board and keeps the blower on longer and more efficient on wood use . This mod is a huge help ,if the fan cools it down below your setting the blower shuts down - then it won't heat the upstairs and as a result the thermostat calls for more heat thus keeping your air damper open which just compounds your problem a great deal by sending heat up flu and eating up firewood ! you may want to experiment with probe placement so it's not in direct path of the rushing air , speaking of which - this blower could launch a Boeing 747 into the air man is that sucker strong at high setting

I am very impressed by the Max Caddy. I have been looking for either a woodburning stove (hearthstone) or for a very long time. I had an authorized dealer come out yesterday to give me a quote I was shocked. My furnace has some electronic dampers for zones one and two. So we are working with the heating company that installed the honeywell hardware to see if the max caddy will work. However the quote came back at $12,000 without hooking the max caddy to the furnace. so, looking at another grand easily to hook it up to furnace. Is this normal for installation? the price did include a blower and a chimney installed. This just seems very expensive. Just looking for feedback.

One more thing, the black pipe leading from the max caddy leaves your house and connects to your chimney correct? This means that when your pipe leaves the house it turns 90 degrees straight up? Do you notice any decrease in drafts due to this?

gonefishin said:

This just seems very expensive. Just looking for feedback.

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Seems a lil high, but it depends what all is included and what kind of obstacles they have to deal with to do this install. Some houses lend themselves to a wood furnace install better than others. How about a breakdown of the quote?
Sounds like your chimney setup would be pretty standard. As long as everything is correct, there should not be draft issues
Where you at in NEO?

gonefishin said:

quote came back at $12,000

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Last spring I got a quote for $10,000 to install a Max. $6000 for the furnace (with oil burner) and the rest for ductwork, chimney, etc. All seemed too high. I went with a different option.

If you are wanting to burn wood to save money, that kind of an install price sure draws out the payback period, especially at current fossil fuel prices. If you are doing it for other reasons than I guess all you have to do is justify it to yourself

brenndatomu said:

If you are wanting to burn wood to save money, that kind of an install price sure draws out the payback period, especially at current fossil fuel prices. If you are doing it for other reasons than I guess all you have to do is justify it to yourself

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In reality though why spend that kind of money when you could buy a Kuuma for half that price?