Buzz Saw
Minister of Fire
Not around my area. Menards employees are the least helpful that I deal with. Ah well. Back to burning wood.
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
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lexybird
Minister of Fire
Oddly enough I found the light pumice bricks to be more durable and less likely to crack or bust up over a traditional brittle fire brick . You'd think it would be just the opposite
Just an update on the install, I did the initial fire outside to try to keep the fumes in the house to a minimum, Used my best helper to get it down into the basement. Its times like this i am very happy to have a walk-out basement. Now time for the duct work future pictures to follow.
I had 2" to spare while backing up.
I had 2" to spare while backing up.
Plenty of room!
How'd that go? Short stack make for a weak fire?
UNGH UNGH UNGH! (that's my Tim Allen-Tool Time grunt)
Plenty of room!
How'd that go? Short stack make for a weak fire?
UNGH UNGH UNGH! (that's my Tim Allen-Tool Time grunt)
Initial fire went well. I guess have nothing to compare it to. Glad i did burn it outside it stunk outside can only imagine how it would have been if done inside the house. All i did was burn up some 2x lumber. I was surprised at the length of burn time. I loaded at 5pm with a little over 1/2 the firebox full of blocks. When i looked out the window at 3am i still had a few coals. Very very pleased with that. I had it running wide open.
I guess i'll need to contact SBI to find out about the "kit" for the firebricks for the front face. Maybe something was lost in translation. When i asked " so all the units currently available for purchase now are good to go." Reply was "yes". Can't wait to hear the response now when i ask about the "new firebricks". Thank you hearth members for the wealth of information you provide to us new guys.
trx250r87
Burning Hunk
I emailed SBI a week or 2 ago and asked about the new parts (bricks and front damper). The person who I have been in contact with since I purchased my Tundra assured me that the parts would be sent as soon as they are available.
So far SBI has treated me VERY well!
Eric
So far SBI has treated me VERY well!
Eric
? They're changing something with the damper?
I guess there was an update on some of the older ones that had "sticking open" problems...
Matt78
Burning Hunk
Can someone fill me in on the "sticking issue" with the front damper? The reason i ask is when i did the initial fire outside and i was playing with the switch for the damper i did notice that upon closing the switch i didn't notice the damper close so i gave it a light tap and it finished closing on its own. So i tried it a few other times and had no more sticking issues. Any info that could be provided would be great.
Likely you will be fine now. Sometimes you have to get the rod that opens the damper, seated into place properly after moving the unit. A few people have had to tweak the rod a bit to get it to work smoothly, take the cover off the box on the back where the damper motor is to check if the rod is working smoothly back there too. Not binding at the pivot or rubbing on anything. I have heard of some people that lubed the pivot points with a dab of high temp grease too.
To answer your question, for some of the earlier units they would send you a new damper that was just a bit different design in the area where the rod attaches. I haven't heard of anybody having much trouble on any units made in the last year or two though...
3fordasho
Minister of Fire
I applied some high temp anti-seize to the pivot points. Also the V-bend end of the control rod where it meets the damper arm would occasionally bind holding the damper slightly open. Opening the V of the bend slightly took care of that.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
That happened to me too. Had to take the small box off the front of the furnace. I don't remember what I did to resolve it, but by turning the damper motor on/off I could see it was binding there, and did something to the hook at the end of the rod and not a problem since then.
hi guys what u find the drolet tundra/ heatmax like for heating your homes, last year I could not get mine to heat a 1000 sq house. I found out they change the thermodisc from the rear of the furnace to the top, I was burning a lot of wood to get the blower to cut in , now I have the kit on top I find the blower is still in but just blowing cool air when it should be cut out.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Welcome back, @bedrock1 . I hope you had a good summer.
Last spring you continually complained about your Tundra. A lot of people spent a lot of time to help you, but you wouldn't try their suggestions or provide further information that was necessary to solve your problems. I'm sure you remember the chaos, here are 10 pages of it:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/real-thinking-about-taking-out-my-drolet-heatmax.141335/page-3
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-with-a-new-drolet-heat-max.140628/
Speaking only for myself, please don't turn this "Everything Drolet Tundra Heatmax" thread into another headache. Rather, please review the above links, try the suggestions, and report back detailed answers to our questions. Also, I recommend you have this discussion on those threads in case the discussion continues to be futile.
Last spring you continually complained about your Tundra. A lot of people spent a lot of time to help you, but you wouldn't try their suggestions or provide further information that was necessary to solve your problems. I'm sure you remember the chaos, here are 10 pages of it:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/real-thinking-about-taking-out-my-drolet-heatmax.141335/page-3
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-with-a-new-drolet-heat-max.140628/
Speaking only for myself, please don't turn this "Everything Drolet Tundra Heatmax" thread into another headache. Rather, please review the above links, try the suggestions, and report back detailed answers to our questions. Also, I recommend you have this discussion on those threads in case the discussion continues to be futile.
I hope i am keeping this thread on track if not just let me know and i'll stop. Just trying to document my install with photos. Here are a few more pictures of what has been done so far.Tundra set up 16" for easier loading and nice viewing height. Also single wall chimney pipe hooked up
.
I have been able to complete the 2 supply ducts, 1 duct branch has 3 outlets and the 2nd has 4 outlets. I am waiting on my return box with filter to be made so i can run my return and install should be complete as far as duct work goes.
I still need to finish wiring the outlet which i mounted to the side of the tundra (can be seen in last picture). Also need to wire in the thermostat. Just a word or caution if you plan on drilling like i did to mount the electrical box to the unit be careful on the lower portion of where i have the box mounted you only have about 3/4" before you hit (something) i'm guessing the firebox.
.
I have been able to complete the 2 supply ducts, 1 duct branch has 3 outlets and the 2nd has 4 outlets. I am waiting on my return box with filter to be made so i can run my return and install should be complete as far as duct work goes.
I still need to finish wiring the outlet which i mounted to the side of the tundra (can be seen in last picture). Also need to wire in the thermostat. Just a word or caution if you plan on drilling like i did to mount the electrical box to the unit be careful on the lower portion of where i have the box mounted you only have about 3/4" before you hit (something) i'm guessing the firebox.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Yep, great post @Builderml . Nice clean installs are always nice to look at.
I agree it would be nice to have it up that high--also an advantage when cleaning out the firebox and burn tubes in the spring, what a pain in my furnace lower to the ground. One thought on the blocks--It looks like it might not take much push from the side to tip them over. I know the furnace weighs a lot so it's probably unlikely but the width vs height of the blocks isn't in your favor. I also have a tendancy of overthinking things...
Also, how long are those 8' runs? I think you mentioned in a different thread but I have trouble keeping track.
Keep the updates coming, thanks for posting.
I agree it would be nice to have it up that high--also an advantage when cleaning out the firebox and burn tubes in the spring, what a pain in my furnace lower to the ground. One thought on the blocks--It looks like it might not take much push from the side to tip them over. I know the furnace weighs a lot so it's probably unlikely but the width vs height of the blocks isn't in your favor. I also have a tendancy of overthinking things...
Also, how long are those 8' runs? I think you mentioned in a different thread but I have trouble keeping track.
Keep the updates coming, thanks for posting.
Hey @bedrock1 , how's it goin? Still fightin this huh?
If you don't mind, could you ask this question in one of the threads that you created on this subject last winter? Reason being, there is alot of relevant information there and it would be much easier to bring any new diagnosticians up to speed. I would recommend posting a recap of where you started and all the things that have been checked, verified and tried, and then the results. It might be good for you to go back and re-read through the thread(s) to see if there may be suggestions that would be good to try or re-try with the new switch location.
One thing that crossed my mind was the temperature there right now, I don't recall your chimney specs but it may still be too warm outside to get a good draft...that would make for a weak fire and low heat output
I tried pushing the unit over once i had it on the blocks. Didn't want to move at all. I did thinset all the blocks together along with the first row of blocks to the slab.
1-8" run is about 20-25' plus the branches that come off of it. 3 branches
The 2nd 8" run is about 40' plus the smaller runs that come off of it. 4 branches
I did install all the take offs with dampers just in case I needed to make adjustments.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I put my stove way up on blocks and found it was quite stable too. The impact required to knock the stove off the blocks would damage the stove/furnace even if it was right on the ground. A disconnected flu is just as bad either way.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Ok, I'm a geek so I drew up a free body diagram** of the forces involved and calculated it would take around 125 to 275 pounds of entirely sideways force on the furnace to tip over the blocks, depending upon where on the furnace you push. It would probably take even more than 125 lbs because you thinset the blocks together and because your ducts may help resist movement. I estimate that I could probably impart 275 pounds of sideways force if I sprinted and crashed into a broken heap on the side of the furnace. So you should either place hurdles around the sides of your furnace, or else just don't invite me over. Beyond that, I reckon your chances of failure are quite low.
Or you could just listen to the other guys above and get much better advice much quicker, which I'm sure you have figured out by now.
**And, the "free" part of free body diagram refers to the manner of evaluating a body diagram, and does not refer to the cost of the body diagram. But in this case, notice that I did not charge you anything for this advice, and we all know that advice is worth what you pay for it.
Ok, somebody post something useful to compensate for this derailment...
I want to see this diagram.. Is she hot ?Ok, I'm a geek so I drew up a free body diagram** of the forces involved and calculated it would take around 125 to 275 pounds of entirely sideways force on the furnace to tip over the blocks, depending upon where on the furnace you push. It would probably take even more than 125 lbs because you thinset the blocks together and because your ducts may help resist movement. I estimate that I could probably impart 275 pounds of sideways force if I sprinted and crashed into a broken heap on the side of the furnace. So you should either place hurdles around the sides of your furnace, or else just don't invite me over. Beyond that, I reckon your chances of failure are quite low.
Or you could just listen to the other guys above and get much better advice much quicker, which I'm sure you have figured out by now.
**And, the "free" part of free body diagram refers to the manner of evaluating a body diagram, and does not refer to the cost of the body diagram. But in this case, notice that I did not charge you anything for this advice, and we all know that advice is worth what you pay for it.
Ok, somebody post something useful to compensate for this derailment...
maple1
Minister of Fire
Ok, I'm a geek so I drew up a free body diagram** of the forces involved and calculated it would take around 125 to 275 pounds of entirely sideways force on the furnace to tip over the blocks, depending upon where on the furnace you push. It would probably take even more than 125 lbs because you thinset the blocks together and because your ducts may help resist movement. I estimate that I could probably impart 275 pounds of sideways force if I sprinted and crashed into a broken heap on the side of the furnace. So you should either place hurdles around the sides of your furnace, or else just don't invite me over. Beyond that, I reckon your chances of failure are quite low.
Or you could just listen to the other guys above and get much better advice much quicker, which I'm sure you have figured out by now.
**And, the "free" part of free body diagram refers to the manner of evaluating a body diagram, and does not refer to the cost of the body diagram. But in this case, notice that I did not charge you anything for this advice, and we all know that advice is worth what you pay for it.
Ok, somebody post something useful to compensate for this derailment...
Surrounding it with those cushy shiny posts & velvet rope things like they used to have for lineups at the bank might work.
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