OK. So I will try to make the changes, I am sure there are some procedures somewhere? Do I need a manometer after making these changes or these change will suffice?
As far as the smoke coming back in, the vendor is not sure about extending the pipe up 4 feet outside would resolve it. They are going to redo my connections inside and put the T clean out on a 45 degree angle so the cap will be accessible to be removed; not sure if it is a good idea. They also mentioned we may need to install another pipe to get the air intake from outside due to negative pressure. He claims my air exchange exit is in the same room which is causing the issue; do I need to turn it off?
Thanks again.
I recently posted the manual on how to change the settings, but I forgot in which thread. I'll post it below:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogznqraei...023_E02_USA [MONIA_SABRINA].2012_max.pdf?dl=0
Hope that works, I put the manual in my Dropbox account.
As far as my settings, you can make all the changes, from 1 to 10 and 23 to 26, but the combustion air, settings 18 to 22 need to be your own settings, not mine. Mine are specific for my conditions which are determined by my house and vent location. A manometer can be bought for about $60, online. The above linked manual has the pressure readings you should see, and the procedure to test.
However, even without a manometer, you can try adjusting your combustion air settings. Many threads talk about combustion air and what you should see visually when the air is good. Pellets shouldn't be flying out of the pot, though they can jump when pellets drop into the grate. The flame should be pointy, and active, not lazy.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sy93k6amkwjomhq/2014-11-02 09.27.23.mov?dl=0
That's my flame, looks lazier than in real life. It's as if the camera picks up the infrared much better than my eyes. I only see the sharp pointy part that's white hot in that video.
The temps of the exhaust gas, which the stove will tell you under "Stove Status" should be in the 200F to 250F range, whatever that is in Celsius. Too low and too hot is not good.
As far as your smoke, that's concerning, but I have no experience with basement installs, other than that others here have commented that they are tricky to get vented correctly.
I'm guessing they mean they'll tilt the T on a 45. That seems totally fine by me.
As for the air intake, by all means, you should definitely consider an OAK, Outside Air Kit, as a first possible solution. The air intake is the slightly diagonal pipe out the back of your stove, you should be able to feel a little suction when the stove is on. I'm not sure what you mean about turning off your air exchanger, do you mean you have an ERV or HRV? If so, then it's possible that they could be exacerbating the negative pressure problem, but it shouldn't if installed correctly. I mean it's an EXCHANGER, air is coming in and the same amount is going out, right? Anyhow, I've seen where people recommend turning down your ERVs and HRVs in the Winter. Not off, but a lower fan setting.
Anyhow, good luck.
If you continue to have difficulty, I would start a new thread with the problem as the title of the thread, because your issue isn't specific to the Piazzetta, but a common problem for basement installs, and then people with experience with tricky basement installations can give you some of their insight.
