Englander NC30 questions about install

Neilt · Sep 17, 2015

I purchased a home about three years ago and the pellet stove that was in the house has reached the end of its life. I am planning on putting in a wood stove, and after a lot of research on here I am pretty sure I have decided on the Englander NC30. I have a friend who is going to help me with part of the install, but there are some things that I would like to have cleared up before starting this project. I plan on installing the side heat shields and I believe the stove already has the rear heat shield, as well as using double wall pipe in the house to reduce clearances. I have a masonry chimney with a liner that I looked into and the liner appears to be in good shape.

1st. I do not have a lot of spare clearance, so I would like to keep the hearth to the minimum size. I found in the manual that the minimum size is 39 wide by 52 1/2 long. I plan on stacking 4 sheets of 1/2 durock and covering with a tile or stone that will match. This should put 8 inches to the rear and sides as well as the 16 inches in front. If there is anything wrong with my math, please let me know.

2nd. This is where I have been running into problems. I am unable to find on the internet or through three days of searching on this site how the double wall pipe connects into the current masonry chimney. Also the interior of the chimney is a 7 inch square, I know the NC30 requires 6 inch. So do I need to install a 6 inch pipe into the chimney?

The pictures below are of my current setup, an I put the drywall up not to long ago and noticed that there is an old thimble hole already in the wall, so I put that piece of paper in its approximate location.

Thank you for any help and clarifications. I was planning on using duravent as that's what home depot has and that's where I will be getting the stove.

kennyp2339 · Sep 17, 2015

Neilt - welcome to hearth. I am assuming when you refer to the chimney as being "lined" your talking about a clay liner?
A few things need to be done before you go ahead with your project.
1. check the clay tiles for any type of cracking, including the mortar joints.
2. You need to make sure that the masonry chimney has a minimum of 2" to combustibles .
"Section 1001 Masonry Chimneys
1001.14 Chimney clearances. A portion of a masonry chimney located in the interior of the building or
within the exterior wall of the building shall have a minimum air space clearance to combustibles of 2
inches (51 mm). Chimneys located entirely outside the exterior walls of the building, including chimneys
that pass through the soffit or cornice, shall have a minimum air space clearance of 1 inch (25 mm). The
air space shall not be filled, except to provide firestopping in accordance with Section 1001.15.
Exception: Masonry chimneys equipped with a chimney lining system listed and labeled for use in chimneys
in contact with combustibles in accordance with UL 1777, and installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s
installation instructions, are permitted to have combustible material in contact with their exterior surfaces.
However, this shall not eliminate the requirement for noncombustible firestopping in accordance with
Section 1001.15."
If you don't have that clearance, you will need to install an insulated liner.
As far as connecting the stove to the chimney you will need a thimble, there are kits you can buy, or if you have the masonry skills you can make one using round clay liner.
this may help you -

http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-d...CN2cxN3R_scCFQ2BaQodhCkOQA&kpid=5SP-6DLR-MTSC

Also the NC30 is a great stove, she is a "lite breather though, so I recommend instead of using a 90deg elbow you use (2) 45deg elbows, it will help with the draft. Good dry wood is a must, you will fight this stove if your fire has a moisture content greater than 22%, ideally you want your firewood to be below 20% content.
Good luck

begreen · Sep 17, 2015

In the Englander 30NC manual (available online) there is a section about passing through a wall starting on page 7. Here is an article on the topic too: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

Neilt · Oct 4, 2015

I went back and forth with a rep from northlineexpress and after explaining my situation we came up with the order. The interior is DVL and this is the remaining components.
http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-x...wall-liner-kit-with-tee-sm625k-tee-19713.html
http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-duraliner-masonry-thimble-with-slip-connector-6dlr-mtsc-6051.html
http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-dvl-chimney-adapter-with-trim-6dvl-adt.html

The chimney adapter hasnt shown up yet, but I have a few problemns/questions.
1. The tee on the liner kit seems to be the same diameter, so how am I supposed to connect them. I tried to get them to slide together for awhile
2. Do I also need a combustible wall thimble? From a few of the diagrams I have looked at (ive looked at quite a few) I need a wall thimble as well as the masonry thimble, but then how do they connect together?
3. Will that chimney adapter connect the DVL to the masonry thimble?

Thanks for any help, I did purchase the insulation for the liner as well. After as much as everyone seems to be able to help here, I wanted to get your thoughts before talking the other people again.

Thanks for any help again.

begreen · Oct 4, 2015

I can appreciate your conundrum. You have inherited a bit of a mess there. The original work totally ignored clearances to combustibles. It's good that you are insulating the liner given what shows here. But the problem remains about how to safely pass through the wall when there is a stud a couple inches from a hot flue connection. It should be 12" away. This may take more surgery on the wall to correct. I'm not sure why they sold you the duraliner thimble. You don't have a duraliner system and it won't correct this issue. Did you get a chance to read the manual on this topic and the article I pointed you to?

Neilt · Oct 4, 2015

Thanks for the reassurance that I am not just completely missing something. I have read that section, but as I am using double wall pipe, the pipe says that it has minimum clearance of 6 inches. Then the more I looked at that page, the more confused I got. So I decided to go the easy way and call the company, which lead me to here. The nice part is that I specifically asked if that liner kit would work and the manufacturer confirmed it would....

begreen · Oct 4, 2015

The problem is with the cement extension into the chimney that is in the wall. It can't be remedied with double-wall pipe, though that is fine for the stove connector. The liner kit is probably fine, but what is pre-existing in the wall is not. The chimney looks like it needs a good sweeping first. It may be a good idea to have a certified sweep look at this to see if there are any other errors in the original chimney.

Neilt · Oct 5, 2015

yes, those are both wood. Does it need to be 12 inches from the edge of the pipe to the wood, or does the entire wood opening need to be a 12 inch box?

If I am seeing this correctly, I can frame this out to a 14 1/2 inch square and use this wall thimble. http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-duraplus-stainless-steel-wall-thimble-6dp-wtss-6862.html Is this correct? Ill look into having it swept, but as I already placed this incorrect order, I would like to return and order what I need to. Thanks

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Englander NC30 questions about install

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